PeterD Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 I did some searching and found a little of what i was looking for but not all. I just got my 84 gl back o n the road and it noticed that the drivers side axle was shot. i replaced it with a new one ( remanufactured ) and it seemed to help the clunking sound found wht bad CV's THen i noticed a massive vibration in the seering wheel and went to get my tires re balanced ( they found the wheels are all a little warped ( bent ) after he put them back on i noticed that the vibration has nearly stoped and it is livable. now i find another problem i just cant seem to put my finger on. while turning left im feeling in my feet a rythmic vibration, when i unroll the window i can hear it. its not a constant humming like a wheel bearing would sound like ( my vw had a bad wheel bearing and it hummed on the highway ) this vibration is gone when your going strait and is not heard or felt while turning right, but going into a left hand bend it is felt. this vibration is not constant, and is only heard at around 25+ mph . I personaly think it is a wheel bearing but my dad seems to think differently ( he sais it could be the front diff ( doupt that ). can anyone help me out. i will try and pinpoint the noise. so far i know its on the drivers side ( as the passenger cant really hear it but rather feel it . holy cow this car was running fine when i dorve it in highschool. 2 years later its a pile. i just trying to get it going for college. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 1st thing to try is to re-tighten the axle nut. Can't explain why, but I've had them "loosen up" after a few miles of driving, after an axle swap. Maybe it's just everything settling in, don't know. Ifin that don't get rid of the noise and vibration, then it's the wheel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Nuto 53 Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 yeah, axle nut possibly. sometimes if your wheel bearing isnt tight enough, the brake rotor can move a bit in the caliper and rub the pads, making some odd sounds. could be the bearing itself too... just a guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 I would say try and get some new wheels bent ones aren't always a good thing to have. as for you sounds im not sure. our minivan does that and i dont know what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boing Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 Hi, Wow... I haven't been to concrete in years. I know the Bianchini's there. It makes sense to me that if you put a new half shaft on the drivers side and the problem is still on that side that perhaps you overlooked something. I'd try to retighten the castlated nut and if that doesn't help... just look real close at the other nuts and bolts (like the steering arm..etc...) to make sure you didn't leave anything off or loose. keep trying and posting here so we can help. The better you discribe it, the quicker the problem solved. Take care, boing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperRallyRoo Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 My 83 wagon does the same things described and then some. Sometimes its just normal but others it creeks grinds clicks jerks and wobbles. Can't track it down I know the axle nut is tighter then heck. Maybe the wheel bearings is the problem? Its starting to do it on both front wheels now. It sounds like my whole front end is going to fall off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted August 19, 2004 Author Share Posted August 19, 2004 well i was gone all day and just got around to finding my problem. i jacked the front up, wiggled the wheel around i felt nothing abnormal. i tightened the axle nut it was already tight, and so was everything else. ( btw what size of socket is the axle nut. 35mm or something like that, i got it tight with a fatty cresent wrench but didn't have a socket to use with my tourqe wrench. oh oh and someting else i was noticing was whenreading about removing the cv it says over and over again that the axle is pressed into the hub or pressed into the bearings....why is it that you can remove them without the use of a press...they just slide right out. could this meen that i have defective bearings, wich by now i believe my bearings are the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 You are lucky that they slide in easy. Some do, and some don't. That's all I can really say about it. There's no ryhme or reason to it. Different manufactureres of the bearings and the axles I suppose... it doesn't indicate a problem with the bearings tho - just that it happens to be easy on that hub. The axle nut is 36mm. Get a socket - they are only about $5-$8, and the proper torque should be 150 ft/lbs. Over is better than under here. The VW bus rear axles are the same size nut, and are torqued to 250. Use the fattest 1/2" breaker bar you have and reef em down tight. I doubt a crescent would get them tight enough simply because it's not long enough. Unless you are built like a brick buick and can really lay down the smack on it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted August 19, 2004 Author Share Posted August 19, 2004 You are lucky that they slide in easy. Some do, and some don't. That's all I can really say about it. There's no ryhme or reason to it. Different manufactureres of the bearings and the axles I suppose... it doesn't indicate a problem with the bearings tho - just that it happens to be easy on that hub. The axle nut is 36mm. Get a socket - they are only about $5-$8, and the proper torque should be 150 ft/lbs. Over is better than under here. The VW bus rear axles are the same size nut, and are torqued to 250. Use the fattest 1/2" breaker bar you have and reef em down tight. I doubt a crescent would get them tight enough simply because it's not long enough. Unless you are built like a brick buick and can really lay down the smack on it. GD your probably right...about how im built..., yea i do need to get the right socket for that, i jsut don't want to strip the threads off the cheap remanufactured axle...aaa free replacement anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 sounds like the same problem I had...I don't know if my solution applies to you ...if the center hub/CV nut is not properly tightened according to specs. you will get this type of noise..if not already done ..go out and find a good torque wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 sounds like the same problem I had...I don't know if my solution applies to you ...if the center hub/CV nut is not properly tightened according to specs. you will get this type of noise..if not already done ..go out and find a good torque wrench Just picked up a 1/2drive 36mm socket...time to tourqe that sucker:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 UPDATE. i looked the tourqe specs up in my manual 145 lbs-ft i jaked the car up loosened up the nut and re-tourqued it to 145 lbs-ft and took it for a spin its still making noise:banghead: the reason i doubt it is the wheel bearing is because the thing was fine before the new axle was installed ( the old reman axle clunked ) after installing this new axle it dosn't clunk but acualy sounds like a rubbing grinding noise. this is pissing me off. i really don't know what else to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 can you still feel this noise? other things to check would be having the E-brake line properly routed around the halfshaft... sloppy control arm bushing, tie rod, or ball joint... tranny low on fluid (doubt that) or, maybe it's time for a brake job! the pads are designed to make noise when they get low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 the front brakes are all new. i may have installed them wrong though. i will have to give that a check. also I cant hear the sound while coasting around a corner at the same speed, only when accelerating ( on the gas ) i can feel the vibration/grinding in my feet and can hear it resonating through the cabin. i never heard this before i did the brakes and before the new axle was installed. this started to happen when i changed the bad axle for the new replacement axle. could this be the axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 did you replace the centering nut and washer when changing the axle. These parts can be bought at the dealership for $2 a piece or so. When an axle goes bad the centering nut could be worn out of round and cause the new axle to wear out fast. Also it could be the other cv axle since you said you only hear it when you turn left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 The general rule is that whichever direction you hear the noise while turning, or whichever direction the noise seems worst in, it will be the opposite axle. So if you hear the noise while turning left, your right axle is going. And vise-versa. This is only a general rule of course. It has worked for me quite a number of times. It's not impossible that a remaned axle is bad. I've even heard of people getting them without grease in the joints... I personally only buy either JY axles or brand new ones from Autozone. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Cone washer and flat washer under the Castle nut could be bad; also the flat washer goes on only one way...it's sort of a spring washer I guess. Lastly, it could be worn splines in the brake hub. Less than $10 part from the local junkyard. I'd suggest you replace the hub (used is okay), cone washer (new), and flat washer (new) before you go overboard on something else. This is less than a $15 investment total and less than 30 minutes to do. If the problem is still there, it wouldn't be the first time I've heard of a re-manned axle being bad. My personal preference is www.cvaxles.com or "selected" axles from the junkyard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 yeah, get some snap ring pliers and some new axle boots and go to the junkyard, make a couple of new axles. the tool for the boot clamps is around $30 i think, but it will pay for itself in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted August 21, 2004 Author Share Posted August 21, 2004 yeah, get some snap ring pliers and some new axle boots and go to the junkyard, make a couple of new axles. the tool for the boot clamps is around $30 i think, but it will pay for itself in the long run. the axle is a brand new remanufactured axle. the hub was replace because the previous hub had bad splines and this new used one is good ( the previous axle and hub din't make the same sound as it does now ). i can try that new washer and today i may take the calapers off to see if the breaks are being funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 the tool for the boot clamps is around $30 i think, but it will pay for itself in the long run.Stainless steel hose clamps - Home Depot - $4 per axle, and you can reuse them forever. The cold hard truth is that often times remanufactured axles.... well.... aren't. Just because it's written, doesn't make it so.... etc. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 The cold hard truth is that often times remanufactured axles.... well.... aren't. Just because it's written, doesn't make it so.... etc. GD GD is right on the money with that. At one time I bought two axles from an ARI wholesaler for my '86 wagon and installed them at the same time. The first axle gave me trouble within a week and I replaced it with a "selected" junkyard axle. Two months later, the 2nd re-manned axle started to make noise and I replaced that with another "selected" junkyard axle. Both junkyard axles lasted another year or two before needing replacement. I brought both of the remanned axles back to the wholesaler. I expected an argument; instead I put them on the counter and said they failed within two months. The counterman turned around and without comment went back into the shop and came back with two more "new" re-manned axles....no questions asked. I did have more luck with the 2nd set; but sometimes that is just the case as GD said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 i haven't seen hose clamps narrow enough to fit on the boot properly yet - although i haven't looked at HD as you suggest. I thought that the inner boot on the passenger's side wouldn't clear the exhaust or something with a hose clamp on it? obviously not a problem for my turbowagon, i have my brat in mind here... Stainless steel hose clamps - Home Depot - $4 per axle, and you can reuse them forever. The cold hard truth is that often times remanufactured axles.... well.... aren't. Just because it's written, doesn't make it so.... etc. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boing Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 Hi Peter! Hello Everybody!! I talked to a local subaru repairman that I know here and he said first of all... that he has done 82 axles and out of them 7 remanufactured axles were bad. eeeeeeeeek that's close to 10 percent. He also told me that it's possible that you've had this noise before and it was covered up by the sound of you bad cv joint. It's pretty normal for some noise as a car gets older. Those are his words, not mine. When I turn I hear a sound almost like my wheels are going to squeel. It's really a road to tire thing for me. This is really frustrating for you but hang in there... don't let it get to you too much. There are some fine people here that deal with subaru's everyday and eventually we'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 i haven't seen hose clamps narrow enough to fit on the boot properly yet - although i haven't looked at HD as you suggest.I thought that the inner boot on the passenger's side wouldn't clear the exhaust or something with a hose clamp on it? obviously not a problem for my turbowagon, i have my brat in mind here... I just use the regular size clamps - no problems here. EA81's will be tight for clearance on the rear outer joint, as it comes close to the shock mount. You can avoid that by useing an EA82 rear axle cup - it will move the clamp location inward away from the mount. The special 1/4" wide clamps can be found - VW used them from the factory on bug axles. Try the VW performance shops. But like I said - regular size ones work fine. Cheaper too. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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