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Thanks-a-million for the advice and diagram Cougar & BigMattyD. I spent the day with changing brake pads and other things to get the car ready for its annual inspection coming up, so it will need to wait a few more days for time to dig back into the door. I did notice though that the 'ghost' came back while test driving the car today--meaning that the locks locked by themselves while driving.

 

Sweden

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  • 1 year later...

Once again, kudos to the guys of this board who take the time to not only figure things out, but share the knowledge with others. I had been getting progressively frustrated (as my locks got progressively less responsive) with my 96 Legacy.

 

This fix took me less than a couple hours to do, and NO new parts (other than a small bit of JB weld).

 

I did it a couple of weeks ago... the automatic unlock hasn't missed once since!

 

Thanks!:clap:

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Once again, kudos to the guys of this board who take the time to not only figure things out, but share the knowledge with others. I had been getting progressively frustrated (as my locks got progressively less responsive) with my 96 Legacy.

 

This fix took me less than a couple hours to do, and NO new parts (other than a small bit of JB weld).

 

I did it a couple of weeks ago... the automatic unlock hasn't missed once since!

 

Thanks!:clap:

You are welcome, my jb weld jerry rig held for years until the car was totalled.

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I actually fixed my problem a while back. I took the door apart but everything seemed to work well. I ended up digging a bit further (beyond the door) only to find that the wiring harness to all the electronical items in the door was in really bad shape. It was the one below the fuse box. Apparently there was some Minnesota salt water leakage there for a few years that took its toll on the wires in the harness. I bypassed the wires around the harness and everytrhing is peachy with the locks again!

 

Sweden

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  • 1 year later...

Crack, okay well do you have any further info or pictures? I'm not even sure what this is all about - it seems like it's not about the actual lock switch (meaning the drivers master inside switch that toggles back and forth), but something else inside the door?

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Yes it is actually the part on the inside of the door on the striker mechanism.

If you take off the door panel and then the door striker you will see it on there.

 

I will try to find the pictures I took a few years back, if I didn't delete them.

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  • 9 months later...

crap i just paid for a door lock timer on ebay for my legacy and might not need it?

 

Mine is odd.. I noticed if the doors wont lock after pressing the drivers side door lock if i slam the glove box shut the doors will lock.

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  • 9 years later...

Are the doors randomly locking themselves?

No one actually said what they did to fix the problem, but I think what they are talking about is, because of the linkage contracting (shrinking) when getting cold it opens the door lock switch (in the drivers door) which signals the Door Lock Timer to lock the other doors. The JB Weld was probably used to limit movement of the switch. I would have to look at the system to figure it out for sure.

The post by Matt, at the top of this page has a link for "door lock pdf" file. If you haven't already done it, click and save the pdf file and study it.

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2 hours ago, Cfoust said:

Sorry to bring back a dead topic. Im having this same issue and the link for the fix will not load. Can someone help me with the fix process?

Hope for the best but old posts often don’t see a reply with more info other than words like you already have here. 

96 era door lock timers can also be flaky.  It’s been like 8 years since I worked on one but I think They’re invisibly buried behind the passengers side dash. 

might want to verify the issue if you’re unsure.  

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