ststephen Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Ok, the driver side CV on my 92 Legacy is going, not gone yet. Has anybaody done the replacement themselves? My Subaru guy only charges about $200 to do the work, but since money is tight, I tought I would see how easy or difficult this repair is. I have looked at the manuals and I am guessing it is a bit out of my league, but maybe not. Thanks, Take care.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jclay Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 I personally did one myself, and would not do it again, as it was a huge PITA. Others may (and probably will) tell you different, but i had a very hard time getting under the car to remove and install the cotter pin on the inside of the shaft. If i had a lift, it would be a different story. I also had a very tought time "breaking" loose the hub-nut, if you do do it yourself, i'd reccomend going to a mech. or tire shop and having them break the nut. As embarrassing as it is to say, it took me and a buddy 5 hours. I need to have my other one done, and will gladly pay someone to do it, unless someone else chimes in with good advice. $200 seems about right, especially using OEM parts at a dealer? My independant mech qouted me 1 hour of labor @ $75/hr. i bring him the parts. Aftermarket c.v shafts can be found on sale for around $50, after returning the core. jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger1 Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Ok, the driver side CV on my 92 Legacy is going, not gone yet. Has anybaody done the replacement themselves? My Subaru guy only charges about $200 to do the work, but since money is tight, I tought I would see how easy or difficult this repair is. I have looked at the manuals and I am guessing it is a bit out of my league, but maybe not.Thanks, Tke care.... Have someone who has some of those skills to help you or show you how. You can just replace boot if you haven't lost all the grease which is spattered around the underside. You will need a breaker bar to remove nut visible with hubcap off. Also a steering linkage puller is a great help so you don't mess up threads "beating" it out with a hammer. It's not a job with only a screwer and pliers! $200 fo parts and labor isn't that bad. A rebuilt shaft cost about $100 "I'm guessing" and can be found on internet or the chain part store. There should be good Subaru guys in Co. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonnyny Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 I do these things all the time and believe it or not it can be extremely simple. Here's the catch, you need a axle nut socket, maybe a two jaw gear puller if your shaft is stuck in the splines, and a few basic tools. If your components are really rusty it can be difficult. Buy a Haynes repair manual available at most book stores and chain auto stores (autozone, advance auto parts etc..about $14.95) You can also borrow almost any tool, no charge, at autozone if one is nearby. I was in your situation a few years back and now I can tear down a Subaru no problem. Oh, almost forgot.. if the manual or anyone tells you to remove the balljoint or tie rod, you don't have to. Turn the steering knuckle all the way to one side and push the axle all the way in. There is plenty of clearance. I get my remanufactured cv joints for $60 w/ a $50 core charge at advance or autozone. Also make sure you don't get any dirt or grease in the wheel bearing area. Work slow and careful. YOU CAN DO IT! GOOD LUCK! Ok, the driver side CV on my 92 Legacy is going, not gone yet. Has anybaody done the replacement themselves? My Subaru guy only charges about $200 to do the work, but since money is tight, I tought I would see how easy or difficult this repair is. I have looked at the manuals and I am guessing it is a bit out of my league, but maybe not.Thanks, Take care.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenSisters Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 It is a straight forward job. In addition to the tools already mentioned, you'll need a hefty torque wrench to properly tighten the axle nut. Unfortunately, when someone can't afford a mechanic, they usually can't afford all the tools needed. I look at it this way, if I can buy the parts and tools needed for a simple job at the same or lower cost of having someone do it for me, I usually opt to buy the tools. When the next job that comes along, you aready have some of the needed tools. You'll always need a (really a couple diffferent ranges) good torque wrench for wheel nuts, etc. If you're not inclined to do a lot of your own work, Harbor Freight etc has some cheap tools that may get you by. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 Plain and simple... Don't worry about it yet. Let the old axle start clunking and knocking and tear itself to pieces. Run it out to its last leg, then replace it with a rebuild with a lifetime guarantee from www.cvaxles.com for $55. The best axles I've ever heard of, and a proven guarantee. Legacies are so easy to replace axles on it isn't funny. Much more so than 80's Scoobs. I can do one in a half-hour. To remove the axle nut, you must unstake it first (there is a section of the lip hammered into the notch on the axle, you have to bend it out to unlock it), then just put the correct size socket on it, put a breaker bar on that, and then put a pipe (perhaps the one from your hydraulic jack) on the breaker bar. With that kind of leverage, a middle-schooler could break the nut loose. Pop the knuckle off the balljoint, and you will have enough room to pull the axle out. Do those roll pins on the inside joint enough times and it will be cake. Just take a punch, line it up on the lip of the pin, and go away at it. Don't be a wussy, hammer the hell out of it. Put the new axle on to where the holes are lined up, and hammer the new pin in from the tapered side of the axle joint. I typically use a screwdriver that you can switch bits on, so you can hold the pin in place while you hammer it in. I've done this procedure no less than 7 times. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ststephen Posted August 25, 2004 Author Share Posted August 25, 2004 Well, that is all I needed, was a little encouragement! Thanks all! And jclay: I know what you are talking about, I had the same thing with a 73 VW Superbeetle, I messed with it for hours, but finally got the sucker to break. When in doubt, buy some pipe and make a cheater bar. That is what we finally did....Any idea on the size of the castle nut? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swi66 Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Guess I'm spoiled as I have a lift and air tools. Parts through the right place can be $50-$100 with lifetime warranty Time can be well over an hour and a lot of cursing. You may need help as well. Unless you are real handy, and have an impact to break loose the hub nut, get it done. Remember it can be not pretty if it breaks........ swi66 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Well, I have done it, more than once and can't say I like it. I would get it done for the asking price. No shame in that. Save your pennies by doing all the regular maintenance yourself, and at shortened intervals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ststephen Posted August 26, 2004 Author Share Posted August 26, 2004 Well, that was sure a mixed bag! Well, anyway, I do have the 36mm socket, a breaker bar and a good torque wrench. I may just try it as the sound annoys me when turning. Thanks all! Any other hints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nug Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 Break the nut loose before you put the car on jackstands, so you don't have the whole thing come crashing down on you. (If you can get a socket on the axle nut with the wheel still on, that is) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 You always can, that's one of the reasons wheels have a hole in the center... You will have to break the axle nut loose with the wheel on the ground in order to keep it still, but DON'T do anymore than break it loose until you take the weight off of it! Take it off with the weight on it and you will pretty much ruin your wheel bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ststephen Posted August 27, 2004 Author Share Posted August 27, 2004 Ok, I am going to give it a stab this weekend as both of my other cars are running now! I have a 24" breaker bar and the 36mm socket from working on my VeeDub. I also have a large torque wrench so I should be set. Oh, yes, and since I am married, I have patience. Thanks all! Also got the Subaru Legacy Haynes Manual today...but I don't think I will remove as much as they say I should! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coloradosubarules Posted August 30, 2004 Share Posted August 30, 2004 Here is a nice little tip... If you have ever plugged a flat tire, than you have one of those hole reamers kicking around that comes with the kit you get at Wally world. Use this and a hammer to remove the pin that holds the CV shaft in at the tranny. When installing the new pin be sure the holes are lined up and that the tappered hole is easy to get to then use a socket extension (10" or so) to install the new pin. Just stick the pin in the extension's hollowed part and go to town. When it is in as far as you can get it with that end...flip it around. Just be sure you drive it in straight. They are pretty hard to bend but I am sure it can be done. Hope this helps. If you can't find the axle cheap enough, send it to me with return postage and $45.00 and I will have Stuart Axles of Stuart FL rebuild it. (Shamless plug) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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