K&N Air Vs. OEM Air? Oil into MAF sensor?!!

[SubeeTed]

HI ALL!

I was going to ask the ubiquitous question about installing a K&N air panel filter in my '97 2.5 GT Legacy. I did some snooping around here first. Then I came across that bobistheoilguy.com site suggestion....so I went there. I read alot of stuff about paper vs. cloth. Then I came across something that bothered my intensely! A refrence about the oil a K&N filter uses, and the chance it getting on the MAF sensor and harming it! I get the feeling that replacing a MAF is expensive! I doubt that ANY oil would come off the OEM K&N filter! BUT the first time I used the cleaning and oiling kit!!!!

 

I was going to simply ask if using a K&N air filter would harm anything! I know someone that was told by a dealers service Tech in Hyannis that using anything other than OEM was bad because other manufacturers using different materails, some of witch harm MAF! I thought this was a joke! Now NOT so much of a joke! I had a K&N filter in my Nissan! I liked it! I could tell it was doing "something" simply because I noticed my foot wasn't into the peddle as much going up the same hills I went up on a daily basis.

 

Anyone else here of this OEM air filter only thing?

 

Many thankjs, Subeeted

[mattocs]

I bought a MAF on eBay for $10 and one at a Junkyard for $75. They can be expensive.

 

The K&N will let bigger particals past the filter and could harm the engine. The power and acceleration you will get will bot be much, so it wouldn't even be worth it for that. And $6 every 12,000 miles for a OEM or other similar one is not to bad.

[Setright]

Well, don't get scared by what bobistheoilguy says. I find that most of his tests and theories are of a suspicious nature. He may not always come to the wrong conclusion, but he rarely gets there using infallible logic. That "timken" oil experiment, for instance, is totaly irrelevant to the lubrication needs of a car engine. There is no place inside the engine that stresses oil in a single point. Most of the time, its a plain surface, in some cases a line. Never a single point.

The timken doesn't supply oil at any pressure either, like the oil pump in a car engine.

 

I ran a K&N in my 1990 Legacy, from 120 to 190k miles. No problems occurred related to MAF or bad filtration.

 

I am running one in my Impreza now. I serviced the one in the Legacy once, and just made sure it was completely dry after the wash before applying the filter oil, and then let that soak for a few hours before installing it again. No oil on the MAF.

 

It may well be true that the K&N element allows slightly larger particles into the engine, compared to the stock oiled paper element - yes, Subaru paper is oil treated too!

However, if you replace your engine oil at reasonable intervals, like 6k miles, then the build of particles won't harm your engine.

[bratman2]

Have K&N panel filter installed in my daughter's 93 Legacy. Installed at 116k, cleaned it at 150k and got cel light about 2k later, MAF error. Cleaned it w/ 50/50 alcohol and water gentily w/ a Qtip, reset computor. Have 172k on it now with no trouble, oil should not ruin a MAF. I believe this to have been my fault, to much oil.

[Setright]

Please bear in mind that the PCV system may let enough engine oil "fog" into the intake - once the engine is switched off - to disturb the MAF. Regardless of air filter type, and even the Sube filters contain oil.

 

Of course, in the above case the MAF was probably fouled due to excessive oil on the K&N element.

[Commuter]

I've had a K&N panel filter in my 97 OB (same engine) for a few years now. I think I'm coming up on my 4th cleaning, so that would be 4 years. I drive about 60k km a year.

 

No problems to date. And I'm sure I over oiled it the first year. Probably the second year too. When you oil it, spray it lightly, then "wait". If there are white or light pink spots after the oil has absorbed, then spray again. Keep doing this until you have a uniform 'red' color. I then also lightly blot the screen to pick up any droplets that are stuck to the screen, especially on the downstream side of the filter. It only takes about 1/4 or 1/3 of the can of oil. (I think I used half a can the first year!)

 

I hear of reports of increased silica content in the oil for those that use K&N filters via that "bob" site. I have no idea what that means (where it is coming from, what the correlation is, etc.). Most air borne particles that get past the air filter would not survive the combustion chamber. If they do, that particle is not likely to get past the rings. It's mostly a myth that oil gets dirty from air borne "dirt".

 

Keep the paper filter so that you can stick it in for a day if need be while you let the K&N thoroughly dry (after cleaning).

 

I noticed just a tiny bit of extra "zip" from it. I doubt that I'd be able to tell in a blind test though.

 

Commuter

[blitz]

SNIP

I have no idea what that means (where it is coming from, what the correlation is, etc

SNIP

 

Silicon can occur from several sources. Either it is actually dirt as a result of poor filtration, a hole in the filter, a poor-fitting filter, or a leak anywhere in the intake duct, post filter. It can also be dirt in the oil as a result of poor sampling technique at the time the oil sample was being taken. It can be SILICONE which leaches from gaskets and RTV-type sealant for a while (e.g. after the engine is serviced and re-assembled). Lastly, silicone in small quantities is an anti-foaming additive in most motor oils.

[Setright]

I like the comments on this thread. Very down to earth, and none of that K&N "will increase bore wear" crap we hear elswhere.

 

Large, sand-size partcles cause wear, but don't get past cotton and gauze filters. The tiny bits that do get past only cause added resistance in the oil, and hence lower power output over time - or so I have heard in motor racing.