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Broke EA81 intake bolts!


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Well I know it happens, I've heard how to get the ones that break off 1/4 inch or so from the head out.. now... the ones that you shear the (Bolt)HEAD off of... how do you get the intake up and off of them? I still have to disconnect the EGR (being REALLY stubborn) and thats why it wasnt moving before... but I am told its a pain to take off. I think once I get the intake off a punch and some PB blaster and vise grips hopefully will fix the rest of it.

 

But how do I get the intake up over the long bolt on the front passenger side? Just keep prying and lubing with spray? Cut/grind away the intake? (I dont need it, its a carter weber) Who else has sheared one off at the bolt head before??

 

Strange how it works... one long bolt came out clean as it were like 1 year old... others were crusty like they are 21 years old.. oh, they ARE!

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On my ea-82T the long bolts on both sides were really stuborn. I broke the head off of both of them. We pryed up on the manafold, we sprayed, we let it sit for a day. Addmitting a partial defeat we had just enough space to cut one of the bolts under the manaford makeing that side free. Then standing on the top of the engine pulling from the cut bolt side (passenger) we got the driver side bolt to pull throught the manafold.

 

What actually happend was the bolt rusted inside of the manafold, not in the threads, after we removed the manifold the bolts screwed right out of the heads. I am not sure what your situation is your might be rusted into the threads? Hope you get it figgured out

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Well I managed to get the EGR off i one piece... had to yank it from the intake side first, then get over it with the closed end of the wrench to get the block side off. I got the broken long bolt out by drilling it (the one with the broken off head) The intake is now off and on the floor... anyone want a carter weber really really cheap?? :brow:

 

Now I just have the short bolt on the drivers side to deal with... its only like 1/4" above the head IF that... We are going to try to drill it out hopefully with reverse rotation drill bits. Hopefully that will do the trick.

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Now I just have the short bolt on the drivers side to deal with... its only like 1/4" above the head IF that... We are going to try to drill it out hopefully with reverse rotation drill bits. Hopefully that will do the trick.

Good luck. A good penetrant and reverse bits can work wonders. I recently broke an injector holder bolt off in the head of my VW TDI (Diesel). I applies some penetrating Liquid Wrench, let it sit for an hour and attacked it with a DrillOut Power Extractor from Sears. Came right out.

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Well the long one had been rusted to the manifold, drilling it out fixed it... this short one on the drivers side... rusted at the threads, craig drilled it out with a reverse bit, no luck... 1 easy out, no luck... maybe more luck tomorrow, we shot it with MORE PB blaster... oh... and we even tried welding a nut on top... the nut broke off...

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Tomorrow we'll try heating the head around the bolt and getting more leverage on the easy out. I'm afraid we're fighting galvanic effect of leaving aluminum in contact with steel and they have ceased together. I just hope we don't have to drill out the whole bold and put in a thread insert.

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Well, you can put me in on the "Membership List" on this one.

 

Was wanting to swap the Weber over to the '84 from the engine that "was" in the '82, (EA-82). Anyways, wound up twisting off both of the most forward bolts, the long ones, one each side, on the '84's engine. They be soaking in PB Blaster as I type, and will get another dose in a few minutes. Be about the umpteenth time I've sprayed them since they broke, hoping quanity of spray out-weighs the amount of rusty crap.

 

Really torques me off about the PS, as it supposedly had the HG done just before I bought it. So much for that garage, won't include it on my list of favorites, (it be somewhat NW of Baraboo, Wi. for those wanting to know). Why don't they use Anti-sieze/ thread sealant on bolts like this? Don't even appear that the factory does either,.......

 

Hmmmmmmmmmm................ Steel bolt into Aluminum, think there'd be a problem with that George?

 

Nahhh, it'll be good to go, mate.

 

No offense meant to anyone named "George", or anyone from the land down under. Just slightly irratated here is all....................................................

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We failed again tonight:banghead: but we did manage to get most of the bolt material out of the hole. We also took the head off the engine so it can be sent to a machine shop. There maybe enough material left in the hole to just retap it. If not they should be able to put in a thread insert in without any problem. What's really annoying is that we spent hours messing with the bolt and it only took 10 minutes to get the head off, if that. We also discovered that cylinder #4 has what appears to be a EA71 piston in it while #2 has an ea81 piston.

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I had this happen on the EA82T in Jessica's car (Actually, the old heads off the Turbowagon). I got some things from sears that you drive onto the broken bolt with a hammer, then I buzzed them forward-back-forward-back a bunch of times very lightly with the impact gun, then buzzed them out. This was after a good soak with PB Blaster.

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Managed to get the PS one out tonight, it fought a good battle though. DS one is still in there, only it's much shorter now. Have to get drill and taps from work. I bought a set of Metric taps, but they're cheap junk. Can't even get it to start straight in a good hole. Taking them back after work tomorrow.

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