robaru Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 Well, I'm looking at putting a new clutch kit in a 1986 gl 4x4 carb wagon. The car is new to me, looks good, ticks abit, but has great compression all around. I've read abit on this site about just pulling the motor forward to get access to the clutch. Whats best. Car has 150k. I have done one swap of the ea-82 before, but never messed with the clutch. Any advise would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 The last clutch I did I pulled the motor out, cut out all of the emissions, replaced the oil pan gasket, clean the engin comp, did the clutch, and put it all back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robaru Posted September 9, 2004 Author Share Posted September 9, 2004 Probably be the right time to take care of the lifter noise also. So most people pull the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 On a soob, I would only do it by pulling out the motor. And while it's out, you can inspect the rear main seal, pull the timing covers to check and re-tension the belts, inspect cam seals, oil pump seals and front crank seal, look at the rocker cover gaskets and the rocker cover to head surfaces, replace the oil pan gasket that probably leaks... I think that's all the usual. By the way, pulling the motor is EASY. I did a clutch a few weeks ago and I had it apart and together in this fashion in five or six hours. Now that was with having a tractor as a cherry picker to ease the removal and installation, and having everything I needed already there and laid out for me, but that's still not bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robaru Posted September 9, 2004 Author Share Posted September 9, 2004 Thanks for the reply. I'll pull the motor. Air conditioning stuff? Can I just set it aside still all hooked up, or does it have to be unhooked, evacuated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 you can unbolt the compressor and leave the coolant circuit closed; it'll flop over out of the way (don't scratch the paint!) you'll want to pull (and inspect?) the radiator whether you slide the engine forward or pull it all the way out. I don't find it necessary to completely remove it, but it is easier to do all the other stuff if you do. not necessary though. maybe i'm just jealous because i don't have a cherry picker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobme Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 IMO it all depends on the time U have, and the tools U have. The last one I did I just pulled the rear drive shaft, knocked out the roll pins in the front axles, and slid the tranny back enough to get the cluch/fly wheel out and did it that way. Not hard at all, took about 3hrs start to finish with Adam NDJ helping me. And there was a LOT less stuff to mess with that way. If U have the time and the tools (cherry picker ect.) to pull the engine, then it would be a great time to pull it and adress any other issues it may have. Just my $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robaru Posted September 10, 2004 Author Share Posted September 10, 2004 thanks for the replys. I've got the time to pull the motor, and plus it ticks pretty good, so I plan on putting a new oil pump in and cleaning out the cam oil passages, and probably put those rebuilt lifters in. I'd hate to miss the cause of the lifter knocking while its out. thanks again for the replys, I've sure learned a bunch on this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 My first clutch job on a Subaru was on our '82 4WD. I didn't even think about pulling the engine and pulled the tranny instead. (It is what I had always done on my RWD Datsun.) MISTAKE!!! The thing weighs half-a-ton (especially sitting on your chest!), and I forgot to deal with the gear oil first. Second time (same car: parts man gave me wrong clutch!, plus machining problem, see below), yanked engine and it was SOOOOO much easier! Same with our EA82T, which has gone through a couple of clutches (my wife needed an AT...badly!). Just flop the A/C aside like previous post said, and the rest is pretty easy. I haven't tried scooting engine or tranny away from each other and doing it in situ. I have fat hands and fat head, so like my room to work. Also, as previously said, with the engine out it is a great time to fix leaks and stuff. (And don't forget timing belts on EA82s!) And for all of you that are not blessed with a cherry picker but have friends, it is possible for two people to lift the engine out "by hand". I have installed an EA81 by myself, using a lift chain over a length of 4x4 wood. Definitely NOT recommended, but it can be done! One final word... use a good machine shop for flywheel resurfacing. My first EA81 job the machinist didn't notice that his cutter needed dressing, so instead of a flat surface I got a dished one. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robaru Posted September 10, 2004 Author Share Posted September 10, 2004 Thanks again for the info. Motor will come out soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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