Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Help!! Timing problems!!!


Recommended Posts

1989 GL-10

1.8L EA82 MPFI (from 1988 XT, i believe)

Original Enginge - 1.8L EA82Turbo

MT

 

Just installed new timing belts, and have everything lined lined up with the timing belts (Flywheel marks and cam shaft pullies).

 

Set the timing on the engine 20 B with green connectors behind dash together, but timing does not change when conectted.

 

Car runs good!!! After driving for a while, the car looses power and does not accelerate. There is a backfiring on downshift. When geting back and checking the timing, I can not even see a degree mark!

 

Once the car cools, it will run well, and the timing in OK.

 

Other recent work:

Front CV boots x 4

Exhaust manifold gaskets

New Plugs

New cap & rotor

 

 

**********UPDATE***************

Disty bolts are tight.

 

Error codes: 22, 32, 33, 35, 42, 51

 

Is code 33 a normal code because the car is not moving?

Is code 51 a normal code since the car is in neutral?

 

Car ran at a high idle (1250rpm) before starting. When tuning, lowered the idle to the Factory Rec. of 700rpm. Set timing to 20B.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

updated original post!

 

Checked the TPS andindicates as follows:

Ohms on lead 1 and 2 is only 1.4.

Ohms on lead 1 and 3 with throtle closed is 9.??.

Ohms on lead 1 and 3 with throtle open is 2.???

I think it is bad.

 

Also, One of the grounds on the MAS indicates that I have a bad ground. The manual indicates to start looking at the intake manifold for possible bad ground....I do not see any ground wires directly to the intake manifold. Any ideas where it is located?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im not sure about the TPS on the EA82's....but for the ER27 the FSM IS WRONG. i'm 100 percent certain of this - the XT6 ER27 motor TPS will NOT test within factory specifications listed in the Subaru Factory Service Manual. if the EA82 uses the same TPS, this may also be true. they share some parts, this may be one of them. i'd check into this before swapping your TPS.

 

also - a few years ago my TPS was causing drivability problems. i swapped out the TPS....still wasn't working right. i noticed that if i flexed the wires prior to the TPS, the motor would stall, rev up, idle crazy, idle correctly....it was all over the place as i flexed the wires. i spliced in a new wiring harness with as much new wire as i could get and it fixed it.

 

good luck and hopefully someone know if the TPS on the EA82 is the same as the XT6.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not the TPS - Got the right specs for the XT TPS!

 

Not the CTS - Removed and tested OK!

 

Still have Q's about the MAF sensor.

BR - less than 10 ohms

B - 70 + ohms

Tested B back to the ECM. Tested OK. .3 ohms between

ECM and MAF.

 

*When the car is cold, and the green connector is connected, there is a noticable change in the timing. When the engine is warm there is not a change at all.

 

Any ideas??????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well more issues solved, but some still exist.

 

I fixed the wire for the O2 sensor, but it seems the O2 sensor is bad. The voltage is not changing up and down as the repair manual states it should. Voltage on the sensor starts OK .45v but continues to drop lower and not vary back and forth between .45 and .55v. Looking to replace the O2 sensor.

 

Found the problem as to the high resistance in the Black lead on the MAF. It seems that the ECM fried the ground circut. Jumped the ground wire (ECM wire 5) and the car immediately ran better, but the MAF is still not within specifications on the SA terminal. Base voltage should be 1 - 2v, but I am getting a base voltage of 2.5v. Other than the high voltage just stated, the MAF tested OK.

 

Does anyone know what this will cause?

 

Also, all codes with the exception of the Knock sensor (code 22) have been cleared, but this is expected as the XT motor does not have a knock sensor. Might look to add one, any ideas how?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. Found where the Knock Sensor is supposed to be, but it appears that the person that put this engine in the car may have removed it. I see a hole in the block on the right side, near the rear of the engine, under one of the hoses going to the intake tube, and infront of the flywheel housing. I now need to find the wiring harness for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...