Rear TOE

[WJM]

So....has anyone has experiences with rear TOE settings on an EA82 4WD?

 

I need to toe mine out...so before I go fabbing/grinding/drilling....i figured i would inquire once more.

[sandman]

What degree of toe did you have in mind? I know on other applications, we went for about a 3 degree toe for loose dirt track conditions. What type of surface are you running?

[WJM]

What degree of toe did you have in mind? I know on other applications, we went for about a 3 degree toe for loose dirt track conditions. What type of surface are you running?

 

autocross and track.

 

I am looking to get it back to ZERO and go about...possibly 2 deg...

[Do It Sidewayz]

there are cam bolts in the rear for the trailing arms.

[bushbasher]

not on my wagon there arent?

[sandman]

For pavement we went around 1.5 degrees or about half of dirt. Nothing scientific here, it just seems to work good and didnt wear the tires as bad as 3 degress did.

[Hondasucks]

*runs and gets his Hunter alignment book from the car*

 

okay.. 86-94 Subaru wagon, 4WD w/o air suspension:

 

lug nut torque - 58-72 ft. lbs

FRONT SPECS:

 

Caster 1.83 +/- 0.75 (degrees)

Camber 1.67 +/- 0.75 (degrees)

 

Front Toe -0.5 +/- 0.1 degrees or -0.25" +/- .005"

no spec for SAI or Included Angle

 

REAR:

 

Camber : 0.0 +/- 0.5 degrees

Toe 0.0 +/- .2 degrees or 0" +/- 0.1"

 

The Toe specs you can approximate with a tape measure (Although this will give you Total Toe, not individual toe, which is measured from tire to centerline of vehicle) but an alignment would be best.

 

To adjust rear camber: Loosen three bolts holding outer arm and inner arm, and change relative angle between innner and outer arm with pry bar

 

To adjust TOE loosen three bolts, move innner arm assy forward to toe in, and rearward to toe out.

 

BUT before you tinker witih the alignment, get under there with a pry bar and make sure that you don't have any bushings that are worn, etc.. that will affect the alignment. Alignment, in most cases, does not change unless something is damaged/bent, springs sag, or a balljoint, etc.. is worn out.. Disregard this statement for modified suspension (i.e., if your car is lowered) There is a nifty little diagram in here but I cant scan it until I get my scanner hooked up.

[WJM]

* To adjust rear camber: Loosen three bolts holding outer arm and inner arm, and change relative angle between innner and outer arm with pry bar

 

To adjust TOE loosen three bolts, move innner arm assy forward to toe in, and rearward to toe out.

 

BUT before you tinker witih the alignment, get under there with a pry bar and make sure that you don't have any bushings that are worn, etc.. that will affect the alignment. Alignment, in most cases, does not change unless something is damaged/bent, springs sag, or a balljoint, etc.. is worn out.. Disregard this statement for modified suspension (i.e., if your car is lowered) There is a nifty little diagram in here but I cant scan it until I get my scanner hooked up.

 

Mina is lowered....and those 3 bolts...there is no adjustment on mine. I could slide it FORWARD about 2MM...but I need to slide it BACKWARDS. Slotting will commence I rekon...