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Master cylinder swappng


JWX
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You'll need to 'bench bleed' the master cylinder.

 

Take two old male end fittings and cut the lines real short. Then slip on about 5 inches of rubber hose on the hardlines you just cut. Unscrew the fittings from your master cylinder and screw in your new 'bleeders' you just made. Pop the cap off the MC resivour and run the rubber lines directly up into the resivour. Make sure its at the Full mark. I would also suggest using clear tube so you can watch the air bubbles. Now get in the cabin and pump the brakes. Keep pumping untill you see no more air bubbles in the lines. Now quickly remove and replace the normal hardline fittings. Then bleed your brakes at the brake cylinders like you would normily (cross directional patern) and you should have some solid brake pedal action!

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its an old (IE off of another car) MC do I still have to bench bleed it?

You have to bench bleed it if A) you let it go empty or B) any air accidently gets introduced into the MC. One of these usually happens when you take the whole thing off the car :(

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arggg I don't want to mess up the lines on the parts car what about that bottom fitting? do I have to bleed that one to?

 

u can get a bleed kit from a parts store. Or just forget bench bleeding and do like I have done...bleen in cat with the lines on...just minimize air exposure.

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arggg I don't want to mess up the lines on the parts car what about that bottom fitting? do I have to bleed that one to?

Any male fitting from any part of the car will work. It's really not that hard or big a deal. Hit up a junkyard or even any parts store. It's a pretty common size metric fitting.

 

Just bleeding the crap out of the system at the brake bleeders won't get all the air out of the MC if any gets up in there. I'd say just put it all together and see how the pedal feels. You might not get any air up in there. Just don't let the resivour go dry and try not to let any air seep in through the openings where the lines screw in the side.

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  • 16 years later...

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