First Soobie - now heater blows cold air

[yngwidower]

Hi,

 

Just acquired an 87 GL wagon carb'd 5spd 4wd. Drove it home and engine stayed right in the middle of the temp gauge, good oil pressure, good volts, but heater blows cold air through defrost, heat, bilevel (only on fan position 3 or 4, though). A/C - vent lever does it's job. Temp control cable appears stuck in "hot" range. Don't know if it's a cable problem or if the valve on the heater core where the cable attaches can be moved at the lever on the core. (I'm assuming here that there is a valve like that and a lever since I haven't been able to look yet.) No antifreeze smell or obvious leaks either.

 

I realize Soob's shouldn't be run hot. The guy I got it from said he just replaced the timing belt so I assume he pulled the rad to get at it. Do you think there's just an air "bubble" in the cooling system that's my problem? I haven't had a chance to check temps on hoses going in/out of the heater core yet. That's where I'll start. Then see if I can "burp" the coolant. Otherwise, I guess I'll check the thermostat and maybe double-check that he timed it correctly.

 

It is really good to find a site like this to share info. Thanks for what you guys have done here.

 

paul

ps I'm hoping to make this little car a daily driver (25+ miles per day to work & back) It would be nice to have heat up here in North Idaho!

[idosubaru]

i never pull the radiator to do timing belts, i doubt it was removed. keep an eye on coolant level. if you had a bubble, the temp gauge would likely move around a little. keep an eye on it.

 

check to make sure the thing has a thermostat in it. people remove them for various reasons. keep an eye on your coolant level.

 

make sure you have hoses going to your heater core, it's possible it could be bypassed, not likely but best to look as it takes 2 seconds.

 

i've seen these hoses/heater core get clogged. pull both hoses...attach garden hose to one and turn it on, and let it blow all the coolant and/or dirt and grime out of the heater core. this could free it up, seen it work before.

[Roundeye]

Look under the dash from the driver's side to the right of the top of the accelerator pedal. You will see a cover a little larger than a matchbox that is held in place by a tab at the bottom of it. Pop the tab and lift the cover up. You will see where the quadrant control cable attaches to a white plastic gear. That gear is meshed with another on on the front side of the HVAC box. Moving your selector knob from hot to cold (or vice versa) should result in those gears moving. If they are working fine, you will need a small mirror to see the linkage on the front side of the box. There is a metal rod on front of the box that controls the "hot-cold" door, the rod moves from side-to -side to control the temperature. I have seen the locking device that holds the rod to the forward gear break and the rod falls out making it impossible to control temperature.

 

 

I'll try to post some pictures of the mechanism so it will be a little easier.

[NorthWet]

...i've seen these hoses/heater core get clogged. pull both hoses...attach garden hose to one and turn it on, and let it blow all the coolant and/or dirt and grime out of the heater core. this could free it up, seen it work before.

AACCCKKK!!!! WAIT!!!!

 

Not a good idea to attach residential water supply to force water through a cooling system. RWS has pressures from 30-100 PSI, and cooling system is designed for only about 15psi. Okay to use flow, and carefully regulated pressure, but don't force it.

 

Temp control cable appears stuck in "hot" range. Don't know if it's a cable problem or if the valve on the heater core where the cable attaches can be moved at the lever on the core. (I'm assuming here that there is a valve like that and a lever since I haven't been able to look yet.) No antifreeze smell or obvious leaks either...

These subes do not have a water control valve, but use a flap that controls the amount of heated air. If your TEMP cable doesn't move, I would suspect the cable and/or its moving of the flap.

*edit - Like what roundeye said while I was typing this. - end edit*

[Roundeye]

Pics! (temperature selector is in "cold" setting in these pictures)

 

 

Here is what to look for under the dash (cover is lifted).........

 

 

 

 

This is what it really looks like. Note how the cable attaches and the condition/proper mesh of the gears.........

 

 

The front side....you can see the metal rod attached to the arm of the forward gear. You will need a mirror to see this as it is facing the firewall (and very close to it). This rod has ribs on it where it attaches to the arm and can be disconnected and snapped back in any position of the ribbed area for adjustment purposes. The piece it snaps in to I have found to be broken on a 1985 GL I had. NO FUN to get to and fix, but possible. Thank God for tie-wraps:D In the background, you can see how the other end of the cable attaches to the temperature control lever. NOT so easy to see IN the car!!

(I know....the cable is disconnected in this picture...happend when I turned the box up....didn't notice till I looked at the pics later:drunk: )

 

[yngwidower]

Wow, You guys are awesome. Thanks for the pics - now I'll know what I'm looking at. I live in the country & am on my own well, so my water pressure is pretty low, but I won't try to blast the heater core too much anyway. At least by running something through it, I'll get to see what kind of flow I have. I've got a bunch of stuff to do right now, so don't know if I'll be able to look at it until late Saturday or Sunday.

 

In the meantime, I'll look for a new thermostat & heater hoses to have on hand when I start to work on it.

 

Thanks again for all your help.

 

paul

[NorthWet]

Roundeye, AWESOME pics!!! Good quality, great lighting.

[Roundeye]

Roundeye, AWESOME pics!!! Good quality, great lighting.

Thanks. I have taken an entire car apart and kept everything good. If you need a pic of anything, let me know. BTW: Good to see I'm not the only freak with a load of these cars. You've got me beat.

[NorthWet]

Thanks. I have taken an entire car apart and kept everything good. If you need a pic of anything, let me know. BTW: Good to see I'm not the only freak with a load of these cars. You've got me beat.

Well, my herd is due to changing needs (wife needing an Auto now, not sure if wagon or sedan...) and 2 kids learning to drive now and soon. Still have old, but need new/different. But it gives me an excuse to shop around, get deals, and get pick of the litter. But, unfortunately, the "runts" will have to go soon.

[Roundeye]

Well, my herd is due to changing needs (wife needing an Auto now, not sure if wagon or sedan...) and 2 kids learning to drive now and soon. Still have old, but need new/different. But it gives me an excuse to shop around, get deals, and get pick of the litter. But, unfortunately, the "runts" will have to go soon.

I look at these unique cars (older Subarus) like this: What you see is what you get. They are not being made anymore and don't have the greatest aftermarket parts avail. Right now another Subie somewhere is being crushed. Tomorrow several more will disapear. I'm always looking for one more to save.

 

Just like when I was into collecting VWs, In most cases, I would rather use a used factory part than a new aftermarket (read: cheap) one. With few exceptions, suppliers simply cannot build a part better than the original manufacturers' factory. So many parts now are made in Mexico or Brazil....with lower quality materials.

 

The smart thing to do is, providing you have the space, snap up every one you see. A few years back, I had 23 vintage VWs out back (most of them were strictly parts cars) I had no trouble finding an extra part if something broke on one of my "runners". I hate junkyards too, they will rob you without a pistol at those places.

 

Keep 'em if you can.