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very similiar cause I never heard of the crushable washer til now

Supermnlives, from your posts you seem like a really nice guy, and I am truly sorry that this unfortunate event happened to you. But the most likely explanation for the loss of your engine oil is that it leaked out throught the oil drain.

Consider:

1. No leaks found on the exterior of the engine

2. No excessive smoke from the exhaust

3. No crush washer used during a D-I-F oil change

4. Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug?

 

4.5 qts of oil went somewhere. It didn't leak from a valve cover, and it almost certainly wasn't burnt in the engine, so where did it go?

 

Two more suggestions, and then I give up.

1. Pull the spark plugs and look for signs of oil being burnt in the cylinders.

2. Was the engine using excessive amounts of oil when the dealership was doing the oil changes? Usually an engine will GRADUALLY use more oil as it wears. For an engine to suddenly burn 4.5 qts of oil in 3,000 mile interval would require an engine component failure.

 

If you're still absolutely convinced that 4.5 qts of oil was burnt in the engine, go and hire a qualified expert mechanic to tear down your engine and document the component failure. Because I'm pretty sure that nothing less than unimpeacable expert testimony is going to get insurance company to pay off on this claim.

 

BTW, I almost had the same thing happen to me a number years ago. EXCEPT that the manufacturer handed me an offical D-I-Y mantainance manual that was supplied as part of buying the car. I changed the oil, carefully following the instructions in manual. The second day after changing the oil, I again checked the oil level and found it to be about two quarts low. I called the dealer and he said "Did you replace the crush washer?". I said "No, and you've got a problem Jack, because your OFFICAL manufactuer D-I-F manual didn't tell me to". Bottom line: the manufactuer admitted that they had omitted instructions on replacing the cruch washer in their manual. They gave me a letter extending my engine warranty to 100,000 miles. Almost the same situation as yours, except that Subaru didn't hand you an offical D-I-Y manual when they sold you the car.

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My 97 Pontiac Sunfire has a low oil LEVEL as well as a low oil pressure warning light. My former 84 Merc Grand marquis wagon also had a low oil level light-think it came on at 2 Q low out of 5. (That car also had a single "Check Engine" light with the inputs from the oil and temp sending units "OR'ed" together. Cant believe ford was too cheap to spring for seperate warning lights)

 

 

Regarding crush washers, I never replaced them on my 80 or do now on my 91 subaru. I use a little "liquid teflon tape" to seal the threads on all my drainplugs, also works to prevent them from being stuck. Have been dong that for years and never had a leak.

I do agree the oil went somewhere, and the crushring theory as well as the valve stem seals are certainly possible causes. I always stress checking oil, too many people are used to newer engines that use no or little oil and get out of the habit. On a BBS i use on my Sunfire I have seen some consider 1 quart in 5000 miles "excessive" oil use and consider a rebuild! My old POS Maverick used to get to where it would use 1 Q every 75 miles before I considered a teardown-you can buy A LOT of oil for what a new or used engine costs. And ALWAYS carry spare quart with you.

 

Just my opinions.

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What about using sythetic oils. That is supposed to give you more time between oil changes, right? I realize that won't stop leaks, but will it slow the rate at which your engine burns oil? Would you guys recommend synthetic oil?

 

I have had to add about a quart of oil between each oil change. I feel like that is a bit much. My mechanic says there is no evidence of a leak. I wonder, is that normal?

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Yes, I would recommed synthetic. Mobil 1 is availablea as a 5W-50 grade over here, and it should be possible to source in the states too. That will slow you consumption.

 

On a sidenote, stay away from Redline oil. I have tried it recently, and will be posting about the negatives I have experience. For now, suffice it to say: Avoid.

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A friend of mine had a (1950?) Rover, that had an OEM oil level gauge.

 

Actually there was a single gauge for fuel/oil level, and a toggle switch to select which one. I recall that the oil level reading was pretty steady, and didn't fluctuate even when driving. I have no idea how it worked.

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