ShadowHawk Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 Hello all, I'm posting for my buddy, who doesn't keep up with the forums... I generally do keep up with the forums, though, as I'm the one who winds up helping with repairs to his cars... He's got a '92 Loyale wagon, 4 door, 2 wheel drive.. Since he's owned it, he's had to replace the hubs on both front axles 2 times, and this weekend, we're doing it AGAIN! The teeth on the axle, for some reason, tend to want to chew up the teeth in the hub. When we made the repairs the 1st time around, we replaced the cone & flat washers as well, as the cone washer hadbeen chewed up... But geez.. we're about to put on the 4th set of hubs in less than 2 years. Does anyone here know what's going on with the axles/hubs? What else do we need to be replacing? The whole axle/u-joint/outer axle/bearings, etc? Or is it time to write this car off for taxes this year? (Note - engine runs good - just front drivetrain that is crapping out). When he drives straight and when he turns, it sounds like metal-on-metal - kind of like a bearing grind... We haven't checked the bearings since the first time we did the axles, because they were grinding THEN, but the bearings looked fine (probably should have changed them anyway just for posterity at $12 each)... Thanks in advance for any assistance possible. Rex Smith Richardson, Tx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 first - i really have no idea. big questin - has he ever replaced a front axle? being that it's BOTH front axles i would start considering what in the transmission or differential (i'm not familiar with FWD vehicles) could cause this. maybe there is some kind of binding or compromising situation in the trans or diff causing this. seems strange and i can't think of what exactly that could be, but the only common link between both front axles is the transmission. if it were one hub doing this i'd say replace the axle, hub and ball bearing at the same time just in case. but having the problem on both sides seems to eliminate the parts independent to *one side*, which is why i'm questioning the diff/trans. maybe someone here can suggest something further. if you still suspect something *at the corner*, i'd replace the hub and axles and ball joints. is it possible it has the wrong axles, control arm, ball joints or the axles have been warn in some way that makes them not fit tightly and wear the hubs down? can you check the spline count on the axles? i've found transmissions for 200 - 300 before....i mean this is a last resort and i'm by no means saying this even could be the problem, just giving you information up front. either way, replacing a trans isn't that hard and doesn't have to be nearly as expensive as most people think. no way i'd trash a good running subaru for this problem unless you're in a good position to get another suba....(edit politically correct)...another car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 21, 2004 Share Posted November 21, 2004 the least expensive way to do it would be to replace everything on one side and see if it fixes that side. if you chose to replace the hub, control arm, axle, ball joint...whatever. trans and diff every made any noise or do anything funky? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 My RX did this...and it was running RWD (outer CV stubs only) in the knuckle/hubs....and it chewed up a hub. ????? I replaced the hub when i redid the suspension along with installing known good axles from my Wagon. The onyl thing I can think of that MIGHT do it...is not enough TQ on the nut. its gotta be TQ'd like a mOfO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grummieb Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 Hello all, I'm posting for my buddy, who doesn't keep up with the forums... I generally do keep up with the forums, though, as I'm the one who winds up helping with repairs to his cars... He's got a '92 Loyale wagon, 4 door, 2 wheel drive.. Since he's owned it, he's had to replace the hubs on both front axles 2 times, and this weekend, we're doing it AGAIN! The teeth on the axle, for some reason, tend to want to chew up the teeth in the hub. When we made the repairs the 1st time around, we replaced the cone & flat washers as well, as the cone washer hadbeen chewed up... But geez.. we're about to put on the 4th set of hubs in less than 2 years. Does anyone here know what's going on with the axles/hubs? What else do we need to be replacing? The whole axle/u-joint/outer axle/bearings, etc? Or is it time to write this car off for taxes this year? (Note - engine runs good - just front drivetrain that is crapping out). When he drives straight and when he turns, it sounds like metal-on-metal - kind of like a bearing grind... We haven't checked the bearings since the first time we did the axles, because they were grinding THEN, but the bearings looked fine (probably should have changed them anyway just for posterity at $12 each)... Thanks in advance for any assistance possible. Rex Smith Richardson, Tx Rex, Heres the problem, NOT ENOUGH TORQUE.... Replace the axles and the hubs then give them a good 150 ft lbs of torque. Been fixing these cars since the 79 year model was introduced. Seen lots of ruined hubs and axle splines, always the same deal, insufficient torque at the axle nuts. Use a new 056 050 500 cotter pin as well. Good luck. Norm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 I've had the axles out of all of the BRATs for one reason, or the other. After doing the intial torque of the axle nut(s), I find that they are "loose" after a 100 miles or so of driving. So, I would suggest a retorque of the axle nuts after the vehicle has been driven a bit. Last axle I changed was on the '84, a new axle, instruction with the axle said to torque to 170 ft lb's, vs the 145 ft lb's that is listed in the manuals. I did so, and it still was "loose" after a bit of driving. No clue here as to why that happens. The '82 did it even with new bearings/seals, axles, fresher hubs and washers, ball-joints, tie-rod ends, control arm bushings. So that kinda puts a therory of worn part(s) out of the equation. I just re-check the torque on the axle nuts every so often now. Owned an AMC Eagle Wagon, push button 4WD vehicle, It did the same thing, but only on the DS axle. ?????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimkup Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 I have heard of the axle nut slipping a thread on the half shaft. Try tightening to about 150 - 170 & then drive as usual for at least a couple of weeks. Check torque afterwards. If it is really loose, it is possible that the nut has slipped a thread. This is especially true of Re-manufactured shafts 'cuz they sometimes turn down the metal due to mushrooming or other reasons. Only recourse for this is to buy new or try another rebuilt, but no guarantee about the rebuilts. just my $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted November 22, 2004 Share Posted November 22, 2004 this happened to me on the road in a buddys subaru. he floored it into second, and we started going slower. i pulled out my wrench, and tied to torq it, and it was on solid. i was thinking the guys at the shop, that just did his break job, rattled it on with an impact while not havin the splines lined up. i have a car that the nuts get loose on, last time i torqed them to 175 and they got loose, backed off to the cotter pin. wierd stuff. its crazy how much stronger the axlestubs are compared to the hubs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdanaPDX Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I'm just about to replace the left rear axle, knuckle, and control arm for my 1990 Loyale SW for the 1st and hopefully only time but it sounds to me to be the same damage that was done to mine due to bearing failure. Mine one the other hand is a push button 4-wheel drive on demand and then All-wheel drive otherwise. I believe the one you are dealing with would also be all-wheel drive (not 2). Don't know if that makes any difference or not 2 B honest. My hope is that I can find the entire axle, hub, knuckle, control arm assembly at a wrecking yard for about $75 - fairly simply labor to change it out. GOOD LUCK Hello all, I'm posting for my buddy, who doesn't keep up with the forums... I generally do keep up with the forums, though, as I'm the one who winds up helping with repairs to his cars... He's got a '92 Loyale wagon, 4 door, 2 wheel drive.. Since he's owned it, he's had to replace the hubs on both front axles 2 times, and this weekend, we're doing it AGAIN! The teeth on the axle, for some reason, tend to want to chew up the teeth in the hub. When we made the repairs the 1st time around, we replaced the cone & flat washers as well, as the cone washer hadbeen chewed up... But geez.. we're about to put on the 4th set of hubs in less than 2 years. Does anyone here know what's going on with the axles/hubs? What else do we need to be replacing? The whole axle/u-joint/outer axle/bearings, etc? Or is it time to write this car off for taxes this year? (Note - engine runs good - just front drivetrain that is crapping out). When he drives straight and when he turns, it sounds like metal-on-metal - kind of like a bearing grind... We haven't checked the bearings since the first time we did the axles, because they were grinding THEN, but the bearings looked fine (probably should have changed them anyway just for posterity at $12 each)... Thanks in advance for any assistance possible. Rex Smith Richardson, Tx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudrat79 Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I like grummieb have replaced many of these with the same issues over the years......2 issues I have found Are improper Torque, or when it happened the first time , someone didn't replace the axle shaft.... You can assume that if you threashed the splines in the hub, you at least took some material off the axle shaft as well....Even if it looks the same clean..... If it were me I would replace the hubs again as well as Axles on both sides, Make sure you torque down proper, then come back and Check them in a week or so......And then again in 4-6 weeks if you find that they loosened a bit after the first torquing.......Also make sure bearings came through the whole process with out metal fines getting into them from the hub going bad.....If you see metal dust in them when you pull the hub and axles, Replace them..... Good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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