Bucky92 Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 I am trying the MMO trick on my TOD in my Loyale. The first day with it the tick was actually abit worse..is this normal?? But the past 2 mornings it hasn't been bad at all..and its been cold and frosty. In fact tis morning Bucky was sounding new again...nice and quiet. Do you guys think I should change the oil this weekend to get out whatever the MMO has loosened up and refill with a fresh batch? You know ..do the whole thing new filter change and all. Trying to find a good excuse to play with my new floor jack:grin:. Thanks in advance!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Shimming the oil pump fixed my ticking problem completely. Maybe you could try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 is the tapping from ONE SIDE or ONE CYLINDER or all over the place? best thing to do is visually inspect the oil. if it's noticeably dirty or low, good idea to change it if you have loud HLA's (tapping). if it's not dirty, you can still change it or let the MMO keep chugging away. MMO is good, but it's not all that potent, one bottle is trivial so i wouldn't expect a miracle in a bottle (though it has cured noisey valve trains on many occassions quite quickly). if you have the time and money, change the oil again for kicks and add MMO again. if you'd rather wait, then give it some more time and leave it in there. if you continue having problems, you can add 2 bottles of MMO or one quart of ATF at your next oil change. or add one bottle of ATF just prior to your next oil change. add one quart 100 miles before your next change then drain it all out and refill with oil or oil+MMO. if your oil pump seals are jacked up, all the tricks in the world won't work or are temporary. good luck and have fun, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted December 1, 2004 Author Share Posted December 1, 2004 Thanks Gary! I believe my ticking is coming from my right rear cylinder mainly (thats where I get the most build up on my plugs when I change them..just did second set back in Sept) But its an all over kinda thing just the worst on that back HLA. I have a strong feeling the mickey mouse gasket is either sucked in or shot but am trying to hold of on replacing that till I bribe ...oops get some help with a timing belt change and all that goes along with it.I have a new oil pump if needed. I do get good pressure and from what I have seen here I have slightly above average....I never drop to 0 at idle). I have been inside my motor a bit and know its pretty yucky gummy in there. I have taken my oil fill tube off and cleaned it..needed a jackhammer to get some of it out. I think I will just go ahead and change the oil and filter anyway..I changed it in Sept when I did some ignition work so its due.Plus my neighbor is begging me to change the oil in her toyota.Better safe than sorry. I just added the MMO to top off anyway since I was not quite a quart low last friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 i had the same problem , in the same place , i changed the oil / filter , with chevron 15w-40 over 1000 miles ago and it has not come back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 keep running MMO or ATF, something to clean it out. if one particular area sounds bad (the right rear cylinder or whatever you said), then i'd suspect one HLA is dirty or sticky. i would not suspect the oil pump just yet...although the seals probably do need replaced, but i think your immediate problem is probably not oil supply related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 here is a question , so can you put ATF in the oil and drive it for a good distance ? or what you are saying is pour it in idle it a few minutes and change it along with the filter ? how much ATF can you add ? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted December 1, 2004 Author Share Posted December 1, 2004 here is a question , so can you put ATF in the oil and drive it for a good distance ? or what you are saying is pour it in idle it a few minutes and change it along with the filter ? how much ATF can you add ? thanks I know the ATF trick..I used run 1 quart AFT and the rest 10w-40 in my 88 GL and also i my Justy. I would leave it in for the duration..until my next oil change. But neither my GL or Justy had the noisey HLAs...had other stuff going on with those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtsmiths Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 The only thing that cured the click on both our '87 GLs was Rislone. And I allus run a 1/2 qt of MMO in all my engines, including the Lycoming. One oil change I substituted Rislone for one qt and the problem went away, never to come back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Shimming the oil pump fixed my ticking problem completely. Maybe you could try that. what did you shim on the pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudrat79 Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Another really good additive that can be used in both the fuel system as well as run in the oil to clean for the duration is SEAFOAM...... Read the instructions, it is east to use......Pours like water..... Later, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Another really good additive that can be used in both the fuel system as well as run in the oil to clean for the duration is SEAFOAM...... Read the instructions, it is east to use......Pours like water..... Later, John I'm a big fan of SeaFoam also. Good stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 what did you shim on the pump?I shimmed the spring on the relief valve in the pump. The spring compresses on oil pressure and bleeds it off so you dont have too much oil pressure. Its not like an on off switch. Its always beeding some and bleeds more as the pressure goes up from RPM or cold oil or whatever. Over time, the springs get softer and bleeds more through. This is an old trick on Chevy engines where you pull the spring out and slip in a few small washers to raise the tension. I always thought this was a little redneck untill I pulled apart the high volumn units that I was buying and found the only different was a higher tension spring. So... In my latest oil pressure escapade (turn out to be a dented pan), I ended up pulling out the spring and putting a small ground round nut in the valve base itself (looks like a thimble). This puts more pressure on the reliefe valve and slows down the bleed off. Before this and before the oil pressure problem (caused by the dented pan) I was having the occasional tick problem and the motor was always a little noisy. Now I have no tick and the motor is the quietest that I have ever had it. You dont want to shim it too much though as you dont want too much pressure. I have about 85 pounds on a cold startup and 20 at an idle and around 50 on the freeway after its good and hot. The lifters are getting plenty of oil now. This is on a motor that hase around 200K on it. I did this mod with the pump out of the car but I think you can do it in the car. It is the 12mm bolt that is on the bottom of the pump and points to the drivers side of the engine. Undo it and you will get a spring, a small washer and the thimble vavle might even come out. Put 2 or so small washers in where the spring sits into the thimble valve and put it back together making sure that the spring goes into the thimble housing and doesnt catch on the lip and see if you have a pressure change. Real easy to experiment. We did it on Chev trucks but its not very easy to get to the pump and to do this mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Awsome thanks for that tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 If you do it post up! I'm curious to see how others turn out. I would like to see how much relation there is to the tick and the overall oil pressure barring other valve train related problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 there is something nobody wants to think about because it means alot of work.... hlas do collapse and can fail. sometimes a new/different one is the only fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fud24682000 Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 So Rislone or MMO or Seafoam can just be put in with the oil change and run continuously without causing other damage or problems? Ray Mac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 your not supposed to run around town with seafoam in the oil, it thins it out. ;put it in before an oil change, follow the directions =] mmo is an addative that you leave in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudrat79 Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 SEAFOAM can be run the duration......Read The Side of the can...... I've done it to several very dirty engines.....Works Wonders....... Did it to one motor with 250,000 on its Clock....valve covers were Black and Crusty inside.....3 Oil changes Later with the Foam, and The Inside of that motor looked almost New.....Mostly Clean Aluminum inside ...... I like it alot....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkiller Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 works great in the fuel system as a smokescreen too!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudrat79 Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Actually works great to clean injectors and other fuel system parts..... as long as you dont add too much it wont fog.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eponodyne Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 heck, the fog is half the fun!! Plus I like the way it smells. I'm still getting used to my Loyale, it's a '90 turbo with auto....still finding out what it likes, what's normal, what's not... But I'm just starting to get THE TICK (everytime I read that, I think of the cartoon character), and I'm frankly a little concerned. I'm thinkin', SeaFoam right before an oil change, then oil change with dead-dinosaur oil and MMO, drive 500 miles on it, then another oil change with MMO and Mobil 1. I show 85lbs at cold idle, 35 or so on hot idle, and maybe 45 on the freeway. Pulls like a demon when the hairdryer's shoving the boost, and I like how the turbo lag and tranny kickdown are pleasantly synchronized. I just wished the G.D. heater fan switch worked in more than LO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 i have used seafoam in my brat, volvo, and 4 runner it is awesome stuff.the atf trick should only be used until warm up on the engine.it is NOT GOOD to leave it in.there is also a diesel fuel trick for your fuel system. it is not for beginners though.....( as i talk like i am a professional)hahaha no really, agood diesel mechanic i know told me that you could poor up to a quart through your carb at high rpms and it would do wonders... well , i have seen it,it did wonders.you can not let the carb choke out though....it will not start again.at least until you tear it apart and clean it all out.that can suck.however , from what i understand the atf trick can be just as bad for your engine.you should put a quart in place of oil at oil change and let the car get to operating temperature then shut her down and change the oil again.if you do not take it out it will eat seals.it is a detergant base after all.what happened to your engines bucky?just curious...............cheers all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted December 3, 2004 Author Share Posted December 3, 2004 .what happened to your engines bucky?just curious...............cheers all On my 88 GL wagon...nothing..that car ran great!! no ticks no leaks..I was running with aquart of ATF after the glorious clogged PVC was leaving smoke streams and filling my airbox with oil.At that time I knew nothing about Subes and took it to a dealer who couldnt tell me anything.My neighbor (I lived in heaven..right across the street from a JY)told me what was wrong and what to do about it.showed me all the clogged lines etc.Started running it that way and got another 70,000 miles out of it...I had to Junk it at 260,000 miles due to too much frame rot.Motor was still running like a champ. My Justy I did the same to "prevent" the same thing.Car never saw 100,000 miles before the bearings went....made a wonderful low knocking noise at all times.At that time I was told (by a Sube mechanic) that it was common for those motors to go at a young age (it was a 90 Justy). I couldnt find a new motor so I sent that to the JY too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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