Phaedras Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 The weirdest thing has happened since I got this car: The old aftermarket Pioneer in my Loyale would cut out very frequently, especially after having been on for a awhile, when it was hot, etc. So obviously it was overheating. Circuit City fixed it up for me, saying the speakers were sharing a common ground which aftermarkets hate with a passion. So, problem 98% solved. Still cuts out every once and a while, but works well enough...sort off. Then I buy a new Pioneer MP3-CD player (by the way, Pioneer lighting looks awesome in Loyale's, fits right in) and the problem goes away...so I think. The radio almost never cuts out anymore, but every once in a while it will just shut itself off, not respond for 3-4 minutes, and afterward the clock is reset and all my stations are gone. You may understand how f**cking frustrating this is. SO. Is this a problem that has occurred in other Subes of the era, or does my car have a funky electrical system? Nothing else seems to be effected, then again, nothing in the car is as sensitive electronically as the stereo. My car battery doesn't have a support mount anymore, so it has leeway back and forth. Could the battery receiving a small knock effect the radio? Even while driving? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Sounds to me like you have a bad connection somewhere..could be from the battery since you say it is knocking around.The schmucks at Circuit City half the time dont know their heads from holes in the ground. You might have a bad ground somewhere or even another connecter not properly insultated and shorting itself out against something else. Hard to say without seeing it. BTW I am an electrician by trade and I specialize in wiring. If it wasnt dark out right now I would run out and look at the wiring of mine in my Loyale and look for possible "problem" spots. I have an aftermarket JVC CD stereo in mine (a huge 200 watts of thumpin power) and I prefer to just rewire instead of using the stock wiring...its usually a lower gauge wire since the stock stereos are maybe 80 watts. The aftermarket stereos do look good at night..but this makes it look even better....LOL......NEONS!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted November 30, 2004 Author Share Posted November 30, 2004 The funny thing is, if it were a bad ground, then other stuff would suffer too. But I actually bypassed the ground (while putting in my new stereo) that leads off from the wiring harness into the darkness and just hooked it up to a nut 'n washer underneath the console. LOL......NEONS!!! Ya'know I've try to install one of those cold cathode tubes that one can mod your PC with, yknow, with the 4pin Molex connector that has a +5v and +12v and a ground for each. I snipped off all except for the two leading into the inverter which seems to be the 12v ones, but I dont even get it flicker when I splice it into a 12v source. Any fix for this, or is there another way to hook up these sorts of things without having to use a cig lighter plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 it sounds like it got hit with a few more than 12 volts.. works for a little while then cut out till it eventualy just stops working. A bad ground will cause the same thing and is just as deadly to a deck. Was the deck wired to the battery for the B+ or was the fuse box tapped? Newer decks need more current that older and stock decks and can (kinda rare) self destruct from low voltage trying to accommodate your volume needs..But that one usually just pops fuses. If you have checked all else take the deck back (if new) and either trade it or have one of the techs ( I use that term loosely) test on the bench. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handtool Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 it sounds like it got hit with a few more than 12 volts.. Mike Mike might be on to something there. When my alternator started going bad it was putting out more than 14 volts. It would heat up the headunit till it eventually would shutdown. After coolong for 3 to 4 minutes it would come back on. Check the output of your alternator if all your other wiring is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted December 1, 2004 Author Share Posted December 1, 2004 Check the output of your alternator if all your other wiring is good. Where would I test for voltage, somewhere directly on the alternator or farther down the line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 with the car running you can check it at the battery.. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted December 7, 2004 Author Share Posted December 7, 2004 Mike might be on to something there. When my alternator started going bad it was putting out more than 14 volts. It would heat up the headunit till it eventually would shutdown. After coolong for 3 to 4 minutes it would come back on. Check the output of your alternator if all your other wiring is good. Yeah, I've been able to check the voltage and I get 14.20V when running. Still within standard operating parameters, or could this be it? I've also suddenly been having problems with the windshield wipers that seem to blow a fuse each time I try to activate them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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