Alf Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 Hello everyone, I have a '86 Leone 3 doors Coupe, and my power windows making me crazy. I've searched the forum for the related topics, but didn't find cure for this, yet. The current situation is that the passenger window works perfectly, but just from the passenger switch, the driver's window doesn't move at all. I took apart the driver's switches, measured the switches, both works, even the lock switch is working (if it's in locked position, the window on the passenger side can't be controlled, so it does work). The strange thing is there's no power to the driver's switch at any wire. I looked around for the power window relay, as you mentioned below the passenger seat, but I didn't find any. Actually, there's nothing, or I didn't look on the right place. Exactly, where that should be? Do you have any pictures about this, or could you explain detailed where can I find that? Or do you have any suggestions, what should I check? I'm totally disappointed now. :-\ I almost forgot to mention that I tested the driver's side window motor, directly wired from the battery, and it works fine up and down. Thanks in advance, Alf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 I would suggest pulling up the passenger side carpet and looking for the hot wires that run under it to the windows. There is a one to three split that will corrod and not give you power. Later, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted December 7, 2004 Author Share Posted December 7, 2004 Thanks for the advice, I'll look for that! Did you mean the carpet under the dash or under the passenger seat? I don't know does it matter or not, but my car is a carbed one, not the fuel injected. Alf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 under the passenger seat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted December 7, 2004 Author Share Posted December 7, 2004 under the passenger seat OK, thanks. I will check again, because for first I didn't find anything down there. I'm very curious now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted December 8, 2004 Author Share Posted December 8, 2004 I checked the relay again, now I found it. It looks like it's in good shape, no corrosion at all at any connectors/terminals. The connections have some kind of protective grease on them. So, that part looks OK, but I still have no power at the driver's door switches. Any more ideas? Does anyone have a circuit diagram about this? I just bought a repair manual on Ebay, but I didn't get it yet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 I'm very familiar with Legacy wiring for power windows. The circuit they run on goes clockwise when the windows are going down and counter clockwise when the window goes up. sounds like you have a wire grounded somewhere under the carpet, in the door pillars or in the door its self. One short circuit on any one of the windows will make the whole system not work. The last time I chased a short, I had to rip the whole car apart. seats out, take the carpet out, take off all the trim around the pillars and get in there with a test light. Keep in mind that this wiring was on a legacy, and it MAY be different on a Leone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted December 8, 2004 Author Share Posted December 8, 2004 The last time I chased a short, I had to rip the whole car apart. seats out, take the carpet out, take off all the trim around the pillars and get in there with a test light. Thanks, that sounds hard. :-\ On the weekend I will strip the car to metal. Anyway, I need the wiring diagram to know which wire should read ground or 12V or anything. Without this I'm totally lost, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Don't strip the whole car just yet!!! The connector is under the carpet where your feet are when you are sitting in the seat. You may need to pull the seat and the plastic trim piece that holds the carpet down. Then you will find the connections that I'm talking about. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted December 8, 2004 Author Share Posted December 8, 2004 I did see connectors only at the relay unit, and I focused only on that. OK, I'll start with that today, and if it's in a right shape, then I'll start to strip. I mean, the car, of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted December 17, 2004 Author Share Posted December 17, 2004 After some days (a week, uh), I finally took out the passenger seat again. So, there's no a damn connector at all! There's a Y shaped bunch of wires, and that's all, no connector! I will take the car to a more experienced car electronic expert, I just don't have time and patience to find the "broken link". :-\ Alf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 3, 2005 Author Share Posted January 3, 2005 Still going crazy :-\ Update: You won't believe this!!! If somebody sits on the front passenger seat, the windows work perfectly from any swith to any door!! What the heck?!! AAArrrghhh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royboy159 Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 Still going crazy :-\ Update: You won't believe this!!! If somebody sits on the front passenger seat, the windows work perfectly from any swith to any door!! What the heck?!! AAArrrghhh Hey Alf----Sounds like the weight of the passenger flexing the wires/connectors/relays may be producing the window functioning effect. It surprising you didn't get the same effect when you took out the seat and carpet. Did you get the problem solved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 This is EXACTLY what my Loyale rs (Leone to the rest of the world) is doing, I sure wish I knew how this turned out... I'd be happy to find the breaker for the window circuit... where is that dasm thing hidden? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Maybe it is just a Loosen Plug / Ripped Wire that makes good Contact with Weight on the Passenger`s Seat. Also, if you look your relay in very good Shape, that doesn`t mean that it is Working good... Some relays have internal fail due to Hidden Rust, etc... So I Suggest you to Test it. if you Test the Relay and it is bad, I Suggest to read my Writeup about how to Swap a Bosch Standard Relay where Round Relays are... Just Click on my Avatar, and you`ll reach a List of some of my Writeups. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 well, I don't have the passenger seat trick going, but the same symptoms... where is the relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 as it has been said, under the Front Passenger`s seat Carpet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 as it has been said, under the Front Passenger`s seat Carpet aaaggggghhh I found it, who's bright freakin' idea was it to mount it there, under the door threshold/seat/carpet? if this legendary system were to have a resettable breaker, where would that be? Chilton's is clueless... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 as it has been said, under the Front Passenger`s seat Carpet yeah, I just didn't realize that meant pulling so much, that is one handy sucker to get to... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 BREAKER is black, round, with 2 wires, self resetting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 (edited) Okay okay, the relay and breaker are under the carpet. The ground for the circuit is there too, and may be corroded. There is also a spot in the harness, about a foot or 2 back from the connection to the PW unit, where 3 (or 5 for sedan,wagon) wires are crimped toghether. They are all red wires, and are the 12V source for each of the door switches. This connection can corrode easily. It's wrapped up in tape, just about directly in the middle of the passenger seat floor, right were your feet would go if the seat is slid all the way back. BUT WAIT! don't dig into the whole interior until you test for power going to the door. Pull the kick panel on the drivers side. Locate the 2 pole connector, with a Red and a Black wire, Heavier gauge than most of the other wires. Test the red wire for 12V with the key on. If you have power there, then the issue is in the door harness(I've seen wires break from bending with door opening and closing) If you do not have power on that wire, THEN start digging under the carpet. Edited January 22, 2009 by Gloyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 BREAKER is black, round, with 2 wires, self resetting odd little dealy, not even what I was expecting the breaker to look like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Okay okay, the relay and breaker are under the carpet. The ground for the circuit is there too, and may be corroded. There is also a spot in the harness, about a foot or 2 back from the connection to the PW unit, where 3 (or 5 for sedan,wagon) wires are crimped toghether. They are all red wires, and are the 12V source for each of the door switches. This connection can corrode easily. It's wrapped up in tape, just about directly in the middle of the passenger seat floor, right were your feet would go if the seat is slid all the way back. BUT WAIT! don't dig into the whole interior until you test for power going to the door. Pull the kick panel on the drivers side. Locate the 2 pole connector, with a Red and a Black wire, Heavier gauge than most of the other wires. Test the red wire for 12V with the key on. If you have power there, then the issue is in the door harness(I've seen wires break from bending with door opening and closing) If you do not have power on that wire, THEN start digging under the carpet. OK. after I find my multi meter and valium, I'll check it out - good advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 breaker has continuity, relay coil has continuity, relay seems to work, breaker power is always hot, relay power is hot with key on, passenger door window switches work fine, hmmm passenger side gets it's own power from relay but the ground is routed through the master switch? interesting that the master panel can disable the passenger side with the window lock out really seems to be heading back to the main panel power supply as the issue wiring is surprisingly clean and corrosion free, ground wires nearby are also clean, floor pan looks really good, no moisture signs under carpet heading over to driver kick panel to see what can be seen with master power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 If you have power there, then the issue is in the door harness(I've seen wires break from bending with door opening and closing) well well well I have power all the way to the kick panel, it now seems it has to be exactly as you said, possibly in that short run from the kick panel, through the door frame... It's pretty hard to see what might be going on. I was thinking the easiest way to deal with this would be to cut the red wire above the connector inside the car, splice a new wire on, and fish it through into the door. When the correct length is reached, splice above the connector in the door. By removing the tape and pulling the old wire clear while I worked, I'm sure I'd find the break in the insulation just as you described. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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