:banghead: !!

[WJM]

So my stock clutch is toast (its only 6k miles old!) for high boost operations now, EVEN at 12 PSI!!!!!!!!!!

 

Looks like im going to look at the clutchnet stuff heavily, and investigate this EJ AWD clutch compatibility that I have found...and see what kind of indestructable clutch setup I can find that will hold up to the HP this engine is putting out.

 

That and I STILL have them gremlin fuel cut under stock boost....it does it under high boost too.

 

Whats strage is it will do it at 11~12 PSI at the 5 sec interval...and NOT hit real boost/fuel cut...but anything 13 psi or more, it will NOT gremlin cut and do the full fuel cut like its 'supposed' to.

[northguy]

Those damn gremlins. You just can't train them like you used to.

[Qman]

This is not meant to be derogartory by any means. The one thing I hear is that you are trying to make a clutch hold up under extreme conditions. Unfortunately I have never seen a clutch that will do that. I have been around racing since I was born. Clutches usually have to be replaced long before a normal driving clutch would need to be. It's just one of the expenses of racing. Finding one that will last a little longer may be possible. But finding one that will last for 50K+ will probably be like finding the pot at the end of the rainbow. It may exsist but no one has ever seen it. Don't give up but don't be dissapointed if you dump big$$ and find that it won't last much longer than the original.

 

 

Good luck in you quest.

[gravelRX]

Cut and pasted from another thread from WJM.

I've been dubbed "The best AWD Subie Launcher, EVER" by a few fellow autox'ers.

 

Heres my method on a 2000 RS...street and Autox...with either the stock clutch/flywheel setup, or the stock clutch setup with a 14lb flywheel....

 

Street: 2 options...fast an noisy, or quiet and deadly...Fast: Build revs to 4k...preload the drive train and hold the car with the hand brake...then GO. GO being let the clutch out rather fast...let it out to the point it really grabbs, only slipping a TEENY bit...and once the car is moving procede to get your foot off the pedal...that usually happens within 1/4 of a second....Preloading being...basically 'riding' the clutch...what this does it have the clutch disc and springs loaded, the gears all mated together, the driveshaft loaded, the rear diff loaded...and the axles loading...so the clutch and tires are the only slipping point...so 1st gear wont break no were NEAR as easily as a 'side step' at 6k or so, and the axles wont suddenly be 'snap loaded' and break...thats the real secret to launching a WRX these days...and really anything else and not make it break.

Quiet: revs at 1k...preload...and this is a really comlicated matter of letting the clutch out and applying power to the clutch at 1k and not slipping it/reving beyond that until the clutch grabs at 1k and everything is locked together and revs can now pass 1k. Its ULTRA smooth and the ultra 'sleeper' launch....the ricer beside you that reved at you...and you dont respond thinks he's not gonna race you...but you quiet launch the car and are GONE while hes still trying to slip and go with his 2500 rpm take offs.

 

Autox: Same as the "FAST" launch...but harder/faster and with more preload.

 

Now...1999 RS with Cobb spicey cams and Kevelar (sp?) racing 5 puck clutch (i think thats it...i know its a kevelar) and a 9.5 lb flywheel...same ways as before...but the "FAST" option is even more harder and faster due to the nature of the clutch/less mass of flywheel. Street starts are no different tho...but the clutch doe NOT need to slip at all. It gets hot...and slips like snot on a door knob...or worse.

 

 

Now...for the main event...launching a Full Time 4WD EA82 Turbo car really fast!!!!!!!!!!!!!`!1!~!!!!!!!!!one~!!!

 

This method applies to BOTH stock and unstock weight flywheels.

 

Fast: Revs to 4k (or whatever). Preload. time to go? Ok. Foot to floor, wait to 5k, and one nice smooth transition off the clutch predal that takes 1/4 sec or less. Once the car builds boost, if you are still slipping the clutch (stock clutch setups) the clutch will SLIP SLIP SLIP...SMOKE...and you will have just toasted the clutch. The clutch need to be grabbiing the flywheel and no longer slipping just as the car is building boost and moving past the 3psi mark...OR SO...but if its built up to over 6psi and 5500...say bye bye clutch and hello smoke and new clutch soon. The XT6 is no better than the stock ones...its just got more inital grab to it.

 

Ive done these launches time and time again. Never had issues of any sort(other than when trying to get the launch perfected, smoking clutches...). It will break 215/50/13 Khumo V700 R compound tires loose.

 

the street launch, i'll do the 2000 rpm hold, WOT to about 3500~4000...and ive got it preloaded and do the 'pedal job' and the car is gone with a little bit of bog...otherwise, the quiet and deadly one works fine too at the state of tune the wagon was in...the RX doent have any balls until 4k+ right now.... :-\

 

There ya go!

__________________

 

May need to alter this technique a bit for a longer clutch life. Jay

[WJM]

what was that for Jay?

 

Anyhow, the clutch hold up FINE for near stock power levels, and autocross launches and such.

 

Its the fact that the clutch wont hold up to the higher power levels, and i never expected it to hold it either, as i discovered with previous setups....the stock stuff is not up to it.

 

I would like to find a clutch to put up with the abuse for 30k miles of street driving with autocrosses inbetween. That should'nt be too unreasonable, should it? I mean...i go thru engines at an average of 20k miles right now....i atleast wont a clutch to last that long with the autox launches and NORMAL street driving.

 

What im hopeing to do soon is aquire a daily driver, and reserve the RX for race duty....the hard part is getting a daily driver that I like to drive. :-\

 

I wouldnt expect a FULL RACE clutch to last longer than a regular street clutch...

 

Still, i am carefully considering all options before investing.