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88 3 Door gl E-Brake not working


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i have adjusted it al the way on the rod by the E-Brake and it still does not want hold the car,you can push the car and it moves just like it's no brake both front wheels move free,.the brake was working untill last weekend and it started acting up.thanks in advance,Bill

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=2#

Brick Wall

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Is there any resistance when you pull up the handle? When you pull the handle, does the Splitter bar (where one cable turns into two, under the center console) rotate about the center pin?

Both of these symptoms would indicate a broken cable/cable mount.

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Is there any resistance when you pull up the handle? When you pull the handle, does the Splitter bar (where one cable turns into two, under the center console) rotate about the center pin?

Both of these symptoms would indicate a broken cable/cable mount.

no resistance it pull up a okay and the cable that goes to each front wheel moves but it does not grab the wheel.when the E-brake is on you can still rotate the front tires.i'll have to go look at splitter bar.

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i just got 86 3 door carb fwd manual ,136,000mi ,it needs a few things ,but over all for the price it was worth it , i think i'll put in a s/r or d/r which i have both , alittle rust , i am not sure how to post pics ,

good score you will like the 3 door,i drive ours only the winter but i sure like the room that they have and the looks of them.i am going out to the garage to take a look at the E-brake again.

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no resistance it pull up a okay and the cable that goes to each front wheel moves but it does not grab the wheel.when the E-brake is on you can still rotate the front tires.i'll have to go look at splitter bar.

BUMP

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are the arms on the caliper moving when you pull on the handle?

both arms move about the same distance,i had the wife pull on the E-brake and with the tires off i was looking at them move.it was working fine untill last saturday when i put theE- brake on and the car started moving.the E- brake grabs zero.

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In the bicycle world we would call this "cable stretch" which is really housing compression.

 

Back the p-brake adjuster out, and cinch up those cables at the caliper arm.

 

Also, disconnect the cable all together and move the arm by hand [well, channel locks would be better] till it stops, see if you can turn the hub. If the brake works by hand, its definetly cable tension.

 

 

That's my best guess anyway.

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