Flowmastered87GL Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 Ok I did a search, and understand this: Front calipers must have the piston screwed in, not pressed in. Now... I am going from pads with like 5% IF that left, to brand new ones. I was able to eventually turn the piston afew turns (dont have the tool yet, will buy it next chance I get) It bought me some space, but not near enough... when going through such a drastic change in pad thickness does anyone know how many rotations it takes?? Seems it would be like 20-30 with the amount my turns got it. I would have kept going, but it was getting late and I was still on side one, so I just put the crap ones back in I need to have the bleeder screw slightly open too right?? (says so in the how to keep your suby alive) My main question is just how far I really have to turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 it should just be a few turns if I remember Mike. Shouldn't be too many cause the screw in part is how the ebrake works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 It's just like how I showed you with your brat. You turn and push at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 on the XT6 (slightly larger calipers?) it can take a long time to get extended pistons back in place. i've turned and turned forever before and it just seems like it's never going to go back in. i wouldn't open the bleeder screw, i'd just remove the master cylinder cap to allow fluid to back up into the rservoir without building pressure and blowing seals. that's how i always do it. i've done this on all my XT6's and i've never replaced any brake parts but pads and rotors (only once on 3 different XT6's). as the piston retracts you'll see the fluid level rise. use an oversized eye dropper to suck some fluid out of the reservoir before continuing to press the piston in and the reservoir overflows. while everything is off, if you feel comfortable you could rebuild the calipers. it's super easy. you can pick up rebuild kits for like 10 bucks or less on the internet and that's good for both sides. blow the piston out, clean the piston and bore out really good and replace the seal and boot and you're done. you've got completely rebuilt calipers for 10 bucks. i did it for the first time this summer, very straight forward. time consuming turning the pistons back in and out, but straight forward and you have to move the piston anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted December 23, 2004 Author Share Posted December 23, 2004 Ya I had the master cyl cap off too. I figured I had to crank more, I wasnt able to push with the tools I currently have, so I think I need to get a REAL tool before I can do it right. Anyway its back together and it stops so all is ok for the next few days til I take another attempt at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 the cheap tool is a small box that fits multiple styles, one will fit the subaru piston. but....there was talk recently at xt6.net about a tool that is much easier to use than this small square socket attachment. it sounded like a better tool but i can't recall the details for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 I usually crank them in all the way. I made a tool to work, just ruined a large socket. I found a socket that was large enough to cover both of the divits on the piston. Then cut 2 sides from the socket leaving 2 pieces sticking out. It fits into any subaru brake piston and attatches to my wratchet. ALot easier than a pair of needlenose pliers. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 sometimes you have to tap the piston with a hammet to get it to catch a thread on the screw mechanism. otherwise its turn turn turn to no avail. try actuatiting the parking brake lever on the caliper for your initial turning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 Flowie: These can be a b*tch to turn, and sometimes they will only go so far without rebuilding the caliper, as stated above. One trick that works sometimes is to loosen the caliper bolts so the whole housing will move slightly. Usually, there is enough play to slide the caliper assembly over the rotor. Then you can tighten down the bolts. When you take it out and apply the brakes a few times, the caliper will usually seat properly. good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 Go get the $5 turn in tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 needlenose visegrips are perfect for this..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stngllhm Posted December 23, 2004 Share Posted December 23, 2004 auto zone will lone you the tool for a $30 deposit that you get back when you return the tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted December 26, 2004 Author Share Posted December 26, 2004 Hmmm I dont know where the nearest autozone is to here... since I work on EA82's so much (see signature) I figure I should just buy a tool. Fox, good point about it maybe not catching the threads... it could be kinda hyperextended from the lack of remaining meat on the brakes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted December 26, 2004 Share Posted December 26, 2004 Gossgary and MorganM both have the right idea about getting the $5 tool. I've seen it at B&B, Schucks, NAPA, and I think at GI Joe's also. I haven't had any luck with just removing the the master cylinder cap; I suspect there's a check valve in the lines somewhere that keeps the fluid from being forced backwards into the master cylinder. I now open the bleeder valve and drain it into a can with a small hose while I retract the caliper piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted December 26, 2004 Share Posted December 26, 2004 I used a cresent wrench with the open end on the caliper and a screwdriver put thru the hole in the end, and turn away. worked awesome, and best part it was free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted December 27, 2004 Author Share Posted December 27, 2004 Well I got to play with my new digital calipers today (chrismas present) Used them to measure the thickness of new pads on the rotor and turned the piston until it met that tolerance. Took a LONG time, I think the parking brake circuit is broken on the drivers side, so no parking brake for now... the brakes work though! No more metal to metal contact! I used the tool (the little $12 cube) Probably a little more than I should have paid, but with a 87 on jackstands, an 86 with a bad carb and a brat with a slipping clutch, I had to go to the place within walking distance. I took off the master cyl cap and opened up the bleeder screws. The brakes were WAY soft after installing, so I bled the fronts, still kinda soft, some air may have gotten to the rears :-\ The car stops better now anyway even with a slightly softer pedal though. the 86 stops WAY better than mine though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 try bleeding again later, i've had the brake feel soft right after installing them as well. wonder if it takes some time for the piston to seat, pads to seat...i don't know, but i've had them tighten up just fine for no apparent reason??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 The pedal feels MUCH better today. The pads just needed to get seated I think. Had to match up with the grooved rotors (dont worry, I will install new parts later with a working parking brake and some genuine subaru pads I traded some beer to Craig for) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 I have the same problem:banghead: . I have the special cube tool thing that I bought from Napa. It connects to my rachet and then you are just supposed to screw it in while pushing. How hard do you need to push and turn it. My piston will not turn. The tool just keeps on slip off the piston. The piston is supposed to screw in clockwise, correct? I try to hold the caliper up while push and screwing it in. How can I secure the caliper so it stays still while I push and turn with all my might? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 if the piston is far out enough as if the pads were extremely worn i like to use channel lock pliers and grip the piston on its outer circumfrence to get the first couple turns, generally it will be hardest to turn the first turns and it will free up as you go. aside from the needle nose pliers i like to use regular jaw pliers set on the wide setting, like the pliers that come in the oe subaru tool kit found in the trunk. sometimes depending on room i like to hang the caliper on the slide pin and rest it on the top of the rotor to hold the works still turning with the end of pliers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 I forgot to mention, that I have the master cylinder brake fluid cap off. Should I try opening the bleeder screws too? if the piston is far out enough as if the pads were extremely worn i like to use channel lock pliers and grip the piston on its outer circumfrence to get the first couple turns, generally it will be hardest to turn the first turns and it will free up as you go. Won't this scratch the sides of the piston which may let brake fluid leak past the seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 I once had a caliper that "would not move" I MADE IT MOVE!! take caliper off car, place in wood pallet use the "cube" 6" extension, and 1/2" dr air impact wrench in forward cw rotation this allowed me to press down firmly and turn at the same time worked great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 I tried hooking the brake cube to a drill, but that did not work neither. The hand drill did not have enough torque to make the piston turn. I have an air impact wrench, but my air compressor broke 6 months ago . What else can I try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 drill you need torque go to a place with "free air" and change the fitting to suit yours go to a place with "free air" and fill up your air tank try an electric impact get Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 Okay, I just tried a drill that had a lot more torque and it still couldn't turn the piston. I had the brake reservoir cap off and the bleeder screw open. There is not enough piston sticking out to grip it with vise grips neither. I am running out of options. If nobody else has ideas, then I think I will put the old brake pads back on and let a mechanic change them. First attempt at changing brake pads = FAILED!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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