2000 OBW brake pad replacement advice?

[robduncan11]

Hi,

 

I own a 2000 outback wagon, and am on a bit of a budget. I would like to try to change my own brake pads, however, I don't want to seriously mess up my beautiful subaru.

 

Is there anything tricky about the brake pad change? how important is it to change the brake fluid as well as the pads? Do I need any un-ordinary tools to depress the caliper piston or to get the caliper pins out?

 

any advice would be greatly appreciated, as well as an estimated time length.

 

Thanks, Rob D

[treeman]

Rob D. I changed the pads on my Y2KOBW at 55,000 miles. They are easy enough to change. I used dealer stock replacements pads, though I'm sure there are better aftermarket pads available. The only non-common tool I used was a large C-clamp to push the pistons back into the caliper before installing the new pads. I suppose you could use a large screwdriver, and I've known some guys who could do this with their hands, but I can't. Pins can be driven out with a hammer and a suitable pin punch, or just file off the point on a big nail that fits.

 

I changed brake fluid at 60,000, as it was rich amber in color (like honey) indicating that it had absorbed moisture. Usually, I do most work myself, but since the Sooby brake system is more complicated than anything I've had before, I had a reputable shop do it for $105.00, probably too much-I don't care, it isn't done often and I know it's right. There seemed to be an instant improvement in braking, on a small level, maybe 5-10%, but noticable. Next time, I probably won't wait so long. I live in a very humid area (coastal Texas). You may go shorter or longer, though I suspect Portland is really humid, too. Color is a good indicator, but I think there are test strips available for a couple bucks.

 

You can do this-hope this helps

Bradford

 

Hi,

 

I own a 2000 outback wagon, and am on a bit of a budget. I would like to try to change my own brake pads, however, I don't want to seriously mess up my beautiful subaru.

 

Is there anything tricky about the brake pad change? how important is it to change the brake fluid as well as the pads? Do I need any un-ordinary tools to depress the caliper piston or to get the caliper pins out?

 

any advice would be greatly appreciated, as well as an estimated time length.

 

Thanks, Rob D

[kleinkid]

I just changed my pads on my 2000OBW at about 56,000 miles. No uncommon tools needed , just your metric tool set, and c-clamp. Use an old brake pad or a block of wood to protect the piston when you depress it. Buy yourself a Haynes Repair Manual. It has directions that explain it very well. It is not perfect or all inclusive, but it does work. You do not need to drive any pins out to do this job. When you remove the caliper lock pin(the lower pin) you use a combo wrenckh, 12 or 14mm, I can't remember for sure, you will be able to swing the caliper up so you can remove the pads. I bought OE pads because I did not want to use cheaper chain store pads that do and will dust alot. The Haynes manual has instructions for bleeding (2 person method) and you just keep pumping out fluid(keeping reservoir level up) until it is clean. You could buy Speed Bleeders or use a kit that you can buy at one of the chain parts stores that has a check valve and you can bleed the brakes yourself. It has worked excellent for me on all three of my Subarus. Follow the instructions to remove the rotors and have them machined (plenty of meat left at our mileage), $8-$10 each. You can do it, and it will give you confidence to do other maintenance yourself as well.

[Setright]

I am with the "kid", get a Haynes manual, the pictures help a lot in the explanations.

 

Also, bear in mind that brakes systems are pretty simple really because they have to be reliable and durable. A complex system would be prone to faults.

 

If you have a manual on your hands, and keep your head clear it won't be very difficult. The hardest part is getting the new pads into calipers again because you must not touch the pad surface with your greasy fingers. Holding only the edges of the backing plate and trying to slot the pads in takes a bit of practice.

 

On pushing the piston back: I always start the process by spanning the G-clamp over the entire brake assembly and pushing on the center of the outside pad. This ensures that the piston travels back in fully parallel. It might need a small squeeze when the pads go in to add some clearance, but if you follow my method first, then the piston is so far in that it "steers" itself.

 

Good luck :-)

[unverviking]

I am surprised to hear that some folks got over 50k on their brake pads... Maybe they're driving a 5 Speed... In any event I got 23k out of my factory pads on my 01 OBW, with an Automatic. I replaced with NAPA's top of the line OE pads (at the time), not too bad, but after 17k, my buddy who works there had me turn them in for a trial of their new Ceramix pads. These are a harder pad than the OE and OEM pads. I have 72k on it now, so if my math is correct, that's 32k on these pads, and I have well over 50% left on them. If you're into doing it yourself, I would at the very least price them out as an option. I haven't had any growling, squeeking like I get from time to time on my 93. I used some cheap Auto Zone Semi-Metallics on it.

 

As far as tools, If I remember correctly, it should be 14mm bolts on the caliper. There are 2 bolts on it, not like my 93, only 1 and the other is a built in pin, you have to turn up and pull back to get the caliper out. I've been using a synthetic lubricant on the pins, etc. Can't remember the exact name, but it is made specifically for brake hardware. I was told some Never Seize lubricants can swell the rubber gaskets, and cause trouble down the road. This synthetic stuff won't, haven't had any problems with it yet...

[87 B4Z TPI 5Spd]

This is the post I've been looking for.

 

Thanks.

 

I just turned 100,000 miles on my original pads. Amazing.

 

Planning to get new pads from dealer, unless anyone has any better ideas or advice. Please let me know.

[jcase321]

Just an interesting note. I just changed my pads this past weekend on my 2001 Outback 5 speed though. I got 108,000 miles out of the rear disk pads. I did the fronts form the first time at about 75,000 or around there. I mostly do highway driving now, 53 miles one way to work. Prior I took all back rural roads but was driving about 50-60mph.. I bought ceraminc performacnce pads from Pep Boys. They are about $45 a set. They sell semi metalic and ceramic. I had the front pads on since 75,000 miles and still fine.

 

 

 

I am surprised to hear that some folks got over 50k on their brake pads... Maybe they're driving a 5 Speed... In any event I got 23k out of my factory pads on my 01 OBW, with an Automatic. I replaced with NAPA's top of the line OE pads (at the time), not too bad, but after 17k, my buddy who works there had me turn them in for a trial of their new Ceramix pads. These are a harder pad than the OE and OEM pads. I have 72k on it now, so if my math is correct, that's 32k on these pads, and I have well over 50% left on them. If you're into doing it yourself, I would at the very least price them out as an option. I haven't had any growling, squeeking like I get from time to time on my 93. I used some cheap Auto Zone Semi-Metallics on it.

 

As far as tools, If I remember correctly, it should be 14mm bolts on the caliper. There are 2 bolts on it, not like my 93, only 1 and the other is a built in pin, you have to turn up and pull back to get the caliper out. I've been using a synthetic lubricant on the pins, etc. Can't remember the exact name, but it is made specifically for brake hardware. I was told some Never Seize lubricants can swell the rubber gaskets, and cause trouble down the road. This synthetic stuff won't, haven't had any problems with it yet...

[howards11]

I had my mechanic put in Akibono ceramic pads for my 2000 Forester. They are great. Well worth the cost.

 

~Howard

:cool:

[Scottbaru]

Ceramic and semi-metallic pads are harder and last longer, but don't they wear the rotors more rapidly? They can generate and withstand more heat, is anyone having trouble with warped rotors? I've had trouble with squeeling brakes when I used aftermarket pads on other cars, had to go to OEM, how are Subarus with aftermarket pads? Looks like I have rear drums, haven't seen those in a while.

[blitz]

Hi,

Is there anything tricky about the brake pad change?

Adding to the advice already given:

 

1. Inspect the hoses for visible cracks and replace them if necessary.

2. Use a flat file and emery cloth to remove rust from the back of the pistons, calipers, pins and slides.

3. Replace the shim-set that goes underneath the pads.

4. Apply a light coat of brake grease on the pins, slides, bottom of the piston and the shims. This'll lessen the likelyhood of squeal / wear as a result of binding and it'll retard future rust. (I think some folks use high-temp anti-seize instead of brake grease.)

5. Don't use cheap pads.

6. Don't use cheap pads.

[danz75]

Someone recommended Axxis pads which is also known as PBR. They're about $50/set. I tried them out and was amazed to find that the braking distance is a lot shorter. The pads seem to 'bite' better. I've only put them on for about 2 months and so far, they seem to perform really well. They dust but it comes off pretty easily.

As for brake fluid, I used Castrol LMA which was recommended by most on this board. It is really easy to do if you have another person or otherwise, get the vacuum pump( I got mine at Harbour Freight for ~$15)

Hope this helps.

 

dan

 

Hi,

 

I own a 2000 outback wagon, and am on a bit of a budget. I would like to try to change my own brake pads, however, I don't want to seriously mess up my beautiful subaru.

 

Is there anything tricky about the brake pad change? how important is it to change the brake fluid as well as the pads? Do I need any un-ordinary tools to depress the caliper piston or to get the caliper pins out?

 

any advice would be greatly appreciated, as well as an estimated time length.

 

Thanks, Rob D

[SevenSisters]

When you compress the pistons, bleed the old fluid out the bleeder screws, not back into the master cylinder.

[Strakes]

Axxis (PBR) Metal Master pads are awesome. They are semi-metallic and I've got them on both of our cars. No squeals or squeaks. On my previous cars, PBR brake pads were very rotor friendly as well. Subaru brakes pads are real easy to replace by yourself.

[cookie]

Clean the pistons before you use a C clamp to push them back in. There is often dust and rust on the part that is sticking out. I get them as clean as I can before push back. Also make sure you keep an eye on brake fluid level as pushing back can make it spill over.

I was looking for a sticking brake on a 93 Legacy today and found that someone had used the red silicon like anti squeal stuff in such quantity that the pistons were prevented from retracting. I have never seen this before.

I also tried the ceramics on this car.

[blitz]

I was looking for a sticking brake on a 93 Legacy today and found that someone had used the red silicon like anti squeal stuff in such quantity that the pistons were prevented from retracting. I have never seen this before.

I also tried the ceramics on this car.

 

Yeah, that anti-sqeal goop makes a mess. Permatex brand stopped my squeal for two whole weeks, but took a couple hours to clean off with solvent and a scraper the next time I opened the brakes up for service.

 

How did you like the ceramics?

[cookie]

But they are quiet without anti squeal. Time will tell, but this car is one Gnuman and I have been fixing up for sale so I may never know. I have never cared for the rear drums on my Forester and I found the rear discs on this Legacy really neat to work on.

[cabron]

The rear disks with emergency brakes require you turn the piston in. Pushing the piston will ruin the piston.