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I have chosen my weapon.


WJM
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dude....stay away from a SOLID hub.

 

You need the springs in the hub to keep the shock out of the driveline, without the springs you are going to no doubt end up breaking gears, driveshafts....blah blah blah.

 

Especially if you go "rallying" at all.

 

Another option for you....If you send your stock stuff up here to a place called http://www.euro-drive.com then will install a Kevlar facing on the stock disc for you, rebuild everything in the disc to better than factory specs (springs and stuff), then strengthen your stock pressure plate, and rebuild/repair what is needed in there.

 

I went to them for the clutch in my justy. Once i turboed the thing, i couldn't keep it from slipping. They built a nice kevlar clutch for me, and reinforced the pressure plate for me. Now i can peel out all 4 on tarmac!!!!!

Before you'd roll onto the power and make about 2 PSI and you'd slip the clutch!

 

They did it all for about $350 CDN. which included Taxes and crap (about 15%). I know the dollar down there isn't soo great...but for like 250 for you, it's a good deal.

 

BTW...you are adressing the wrong problem. The problem is not in the Clutch disc itself. The problem lies in the Pressure Plate. I recently looked up the stock holding power of the EA82T clutch and it's something weak like 600 PSI, The stock PSI on my justy clutch was 600 PSI, and that was for 70HP. My justy clutch is now well over 1200 PSI, and is making like 125 HP.

 

Any clutch guys will tell you the same thing. The problem isn't with the Clutch Disc itself, as they all grip somewhat close to the same. the problem is with the pressure plate.

 

YES..in theory with a 6 puck design you will get more holding PSI....but...prolly not enough for what your thinking of doing.

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ok...My friend has the 6 puck Ez-lok from Clutchnet in his legacy.....and the engagement is fairly harsh. Soo much to the point where it rattles the dash everytime you let out the clutch. If it was a full on race car..ok...but to drive to work everyday....it's not my choice

 

Read above again..i think i edited while you were posting.

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So would it be better to go with the 3 puck sprung one from clutchnet?

 

Im not ready to upgrade the PP yet. As long as the clutch i get holds up to 250...in not worried right now. I am not planning on going past 200 for a while...at least not until after 2005 season. Im at estimated 200 right now.

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3 pucks are STUPID harsh engagement.

 

Trust me here...

 

My friend has a 91 Legacy Turbo which we used the stock pressure plate, and a 6 puck Clutchnet clutch. It's harsh....dash rattles, easy to stall, pain in the rump roast to park...blah blah blah.

 

My car.....i used the "stock" disc with a kevlar facing, and an upgraded pressure plate (twin diaphram springs) which yielded to double the clamping force. Apart from a sligthly stiff pedal, you wouldn't know it from a stock clutch on engagement.

 

 

another note....The 6 puck clutchnet clutch....it was in for about 8 months, and we had it apart to replace the engine (ej20 swap) it was considerably worn. Depending on what material ACT is using i bet they will wear at the same rate. The Kevlar facings will last somewhere around 5-6 times longer than a stock disc. From looking at the website they do indeed look identical to the Clutchnet material....

 

I'm well aware (cause i'm in the same position) that $$$ is a concern. But to spend maybe 100 bucks more at this point to do things properly is worth way less than the time you'd spent ripping the tranny out again to replace the clutch in 6 months time.

 

On my Justy i've had the tranny out 3 times in the last 4 Months. One stock clutch, One new stock clutch and PP, and the Euro-drive Clutch.

 

Remember...i'm talking in CDN dollars....exchange rate is in your favor....sort of!

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