Tee Koo Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 I was thinking that how much power would be the limit for EA82T's head? 250hp? 300hp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 Depends on who you ask and how much money you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 I was thinking that how much power would be the limit for EA82T's head? 250hp? 300hp? Well, the heads crack with it being just stock. Unless you solve the problem near #3 cylinder as to why it gets bad over there and not as bad in other places, you may be limited. I'll guesstimate and say around 200hp to the crank is where you may start running into cylinder head heating issues really quickly. Again, it's an issue stock but I think it'd be accelerated and slap you in the face by then. An even truer answer to your question is......I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 1, 2005 Author Share Posted January 1, 2005 OK, how about swapping EJ20 or even EJ25 to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 Well, the heads crack with it being just stock. Unless you solve the problem near #3 cylinder as to why it gets bad over there and not as bad in other places, you may be limited. Silly question, have to leave so no time to research and will forget by the time I get home... Are left and right heads interchangeable? In other words, is the casting the same and just situational diferences that cause the cracking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 yes left and right are the same for the EXCEPTION OF.... the bungs for the oil lines for the turbo.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 yes left and right are the same for the EXCEPTION OF.... the bungs for the oil lines for the turbo.... Oil line boss is in both castings? (I'm too lazy to walk 10 yards to look ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 the area where they are drilled and tapped are there but no holes so it would have to be drilled and tapped.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 1, 2005 Author Share Posted January 1, 2005 the area where they are drilled and tapped are there but no holes so it would have to be drilled and tapped....Doesn't sound too difficult... so, how much could it stand then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 Nobody knows how much they will withstand. Seems anyone who tries to build one up to above 200hp, blow them up. So I'd say about 200hp is your limit. If you swaped parts and modified the heads you could probably reach 250hp. But by that time you would have spent more $$ than it'd take to swap a EJ20 or EJ22 over, and those engines are proven to take more than 400hp. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 My tangential questions were about the cause of cracking, probably the main worry we all have about power increases in the EA82T. Where I was going was that if the castings are the same (except for final machining of holes and threads) then the likely cause of the cracking is fairly situational... things are different on the passenger-side (LHD markets) of the engine. Some have suggested cooling passage issues or oil passage for turbos, etc, but a member was recently talking about how poor the stock fuel distribution rail is, possibly causing overly lean conditions in the passenger-side. So, in answer to your question, *IF* the cooling is optimized, and *IF*the fuel mixture is even and proper, IMHO there is no big reason why a non-turbo EA82 couldn't put out the "magic" 100bhp/liter (180HP). A turbo should be able to make at least 50% more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 never forget about murphy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 2, 2005 Author Share Posted January 2, 2005 Okay, how difficult then could EJ20T swap be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Not difficult at all... so long as you know what you are doing. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Not difficult at all... so long as you know what you are doing. -Brian ??? :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 ??? :-\ im confused by Qman's post... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 I was thinking that how much power would be the limit for EA82T's head? 250hp? 300hp? On a good EA82T with completely stock internals...intake, exhaust, intercooler and boost being the only mods...about 200 is the limit. Go more extravagant...say, stock internals...but some slight engine management tweaking, bigger turbo and IC setup...240~260 is the rumored absolute max output on stock internals. On an average EA82T with miles and years of driving...say, an 87 RX with 160k miles on it...180 is going to be the max before things start breaking...simply due to its age and life to this point...the ones with age/miles on them dont last at those aforementioned output numbers. A fresh one will do the numbers tho. I would say, if you did it all correctly; pistons, rods...cams, turbo, header, TBE, IC, full engine management...you could get about 300 out of it an daily drive it and probably get about 30k~40k miles out of it if its taken care of, and not used for track events...or a TON of autocross. Otherwise...rally teams have been able to produce 400~450 out of these things back in the mid 90's. Technology has impoved since then, and many new products, materials and information is avalible...I would not be suprised if a fully race prepped/built EA82T was able to produce 500hp and be reliable enough for a WRC style rally event, or the 'average GT road race.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 2, 2005 Author Share Posted January 2, 2005 I would say, if you did it all correctly; pistons, rods...cams, turbo, header, TBE, IC, full engine management...you could get about 300 out of it an daily drive it and probably get about 30k~40k miles out of it if its taken care of, and not used for track events...or a TON of autocross.If I'm going to have 300hp, then off course I'm ready to make total engine rebuilt, including forged pistons, better rods, etc. and total service to the engine. I'm just thinking about should I swap EJ20T in it... ...I counted that if I do EJ20T swap, it will cost about 2500-3000$ to get the parts here in Finland. Or then I could import Legacy (or Loyale, as you may know it) with EJ20T from Germany where they cost about 3000$. But the thing is that with that 3000$ I could get much done to EA82T also. The whole thing is just now that will I be happy with 300hp or do I want more later :-\ The clutch will certainly have to be changed earlier (200hp?) but how will the gearbox be, how much it will hold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 If you dont care about what engine you run, as long as its a subaru one, reliable and makes alot of HP...then use a later EJ20G from an STi. Legacy onea are only about 220~260...STi ones from version 5 and on are 280 right out of the box. There is more work involved in the swap...but you get over 340 with intake and exhaust mods right out of the box....and its completely reliable at that point. Spending the same on the EA82T will yeild that same HP and work involved....but no one really knows the reliability of it...and parts are very hard to come by for the EA82. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 As for myself...alot of people think that the EA82T cant do this or that...so I am sticking with it until I get it to where I want it. Oh...Qman has a PM on its way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Hey Will, Just for the record, I'm on the 'Mod the EA82T engine for power' team. However, I keep seeing that 200hp figure tossed around. That's a helluva figure to just say lightly. You got to show some people some proof man. Of course you don't have to prove anything to anyone but it would be great to show where you were at and where you are/were when you got to that holy grail 200hp number. That's 85hp more than stock. I know it's not impossible but that's quite a jump. I can see that some people'll take this for a joke or something. That's not cool! I already know you stated you will be dyno'd. Cool! If ANYONE here has some data to show the stock hp figures/power and the 200hp figure/power, that would be excellent. It doesn't have to be a dyno. Track trap speeds are good as well. That's all....thanks! BTW: Will/WJM.....our parts are coming in tomorrow *Giddy with excitement...tee-hee-tee-hee* Unfortunately, my RX turbo has one flat tire (brand new Kumhos I got). I ordered another one on Thursday so hopefully it'll be here so I can put it on and have some dyno numbers for you guys next week. It's all I can think about. The TWE parts will be dyno'd at some further date. The non-mechanic I am have to try to install it myself. I'm nervous about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 By calculations...at 15~16 PSI before i added the IC...i was getting about 170~180 hp...as I outran that 2.5 RS...it was all stock except for an intake...est 170 hp for it...and we were at similar weights with people in the cars loading us down. I walked away from it steadily...so that means i had close to same HP as the RS. Either way, dyno time comming as soon as I can get time and $ to do so...and fix the gremlin fuel cut and clutch. after I added the IC...it was faster at 14 psi than the previous psi...ofcourse...it was definalty faster...and then the clutch started slipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 ok, i had to chime in, the subaru factory rx rally car in the 80's was in the ballpark of 250 hp and reliable, but obviosly not stock. this i learned from a guy thats been doing racing and work on subarus since the 70's. the guy also has one of the nicest svx's ive seen in a while. the crack in the heads on #3 is from the added heat of the turbo almost sitting ontop of it. wrx's have been having the same issue since they were release in the us. if the turbo was moved about two inches toward the back of the engine bay, and then insulated from the engine, i think that there would be a lot less trouble with the #3 cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 the crack in the heads on #3 is from the added heat of the turbo almost sitting ontop of it. wrx's have been having the same issue since they were release in the us. if the turbo was moved about two inches toward the back of the engine bay, and then insulated from the engine, i think that there would be a lot less trouble with the #3 cylinder. With this in mind, do you think an upgraded turbo (such as the legacy units) that people have been using would help with this issue? It would seem that since it's a bigger turbo, inlet air temperature at the same psi would be lower. Also, I thought I read that the turbo sits a little higher and further back. This would move the heat higher up (which is better since heat rises) and further back (which is better since engine air flow travels towards the firewall) which should help prevent or reduce the #3 cylinder head cracking issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Once again, I do not think it is the issue with the turbo and where it sits...but the issue of the LACK of an INTERCOOLER and the design of the FLAT 4 that makes the #3 cyl have some small issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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