oddcomp Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 i know for a fact that stock fuel management sucks large amount of rear end as far as going to a bigger turbo to get more hp might i suggest one of my next tricks to try <of course after i recover from the tranny problem no time and money ect> i will be going to a vnt turbo i guess its teh closest thing you could call a "smart turbo" it is a little bit bigger unit but does not suffer the increased lag problem of say a legacy unit as it has "vanes" in the turbine housing that close down and force more exhaust into the turbine at 0-low boost thus making it spool up faster at lower rpm's and as most people know if you have samll exhaust housing setup so your turbo spools faster then you have the restricted exhaust problem at your higher rpm but in this case with a vnt the vanes upen up and it then acts like a larger turbine so now you also have a turbo that works well it hi rpm with minimal back pressure in short it adapts to the motor to act like a itty bitty turbo with fast spool at low rpm/low boost then opens the vanes so less exhaust hits the turbine <at what ever set level> and it will work just like a larger turbine btw vnt's have no wastegates the vanes in the turbine controll boost psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 2, 2005 Author Share Posted January 2, 2005 the crack in the heads on #3 is from the added heat of the turbo almost sitting ontop of it. wrx's have been having the same issue since they were release in the us. if the turbo was moved about two inches toward the back of the engine bay, and then insulated from the engine, i think that there would be a lot less trouble with the #3 cylinder.If I'm going to chase big numbers from EA82T, then I'll definately also make a new exhaust manifold and use bigger turbo. So, I'll have to get the turbo as far away from that cylinder as it is still reasonable on other factories. Once again, I do not think it is the issue with the turbo and where it sits...but the issue of the LACK of an INTERCOOLER and the design of the FLAT 4 that makes the #3 cyl have some small issues.And intercooler.. off course I'll have one... and BIG one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 I honestly dont think the turbo being so close to #3 has anything to do with the failures. VW flat 4s had issues with cyl#3 cooling, and they were not turbo'ed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 If I'm going to chase big numbers from EA82T, then I'll definately also make a new exhaust manifold and use bigger turbo. So, I'll have to get the turbo as far away from that cylinder as it is still reasonable on other factories. Start with what is available now. Call Techworks up to see if you can get an upgraded header/uppipe and downpipe. They may or may no have a turbo available. You could get your own as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 2, 2005 Author Share Posted January 2, 2005 Call Techworks up to see if you can get an upgraded header/uppipe and downpipe.Eh.. I live in Finland... And I'm thinking of doing everything by myself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 I remember some time ago there was a discussion of oil coolers on the EA82T. If my memory is correct, someone was talking about them coming from the factory on the turbo EA82s in Europe, or at least in some countries, and that those engines had minimal problems with head cracking. In fact, they cracked less often than the N/A EA82's, which were not fitted with oil coolers from the factory. Sooooooo, it would seem that maybe if a good oil cooler was included in the mod package, these engines could reliably produce more power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 the heads might crack even without the turbo, but the majority of the cracks are in #3, which is where the turbo sits, thus is the hottsest exterior part other than the exhaust ports. if the turbo was on the driver side, we be talking about issues with #4 having cracks. oil coolers and intercoolers will help to make a difference, but only to a certain point. but every little bit helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 3, 2005 Author Share Posted January 3, 2005 Question about swapping EJ20T... is it possible to make adaptor plate between EA82T's gearbox and EJ20T engine so that they could be connected to each other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Question about swapping EJ20T... is it possible to make adaptor plate between EA82T's gearbox and EJ20T engine so that they could be connected to each other? Yes. But at that point...you are going to need to be thinking about having a spare tranny laying around...or taking the RX box apart and put some more strenght into it. the EJ boxes are better due to the center diff package...and they will hold more power right out of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 I honestly dont think the turbo being so close to #3 has anything to do with the failures... I agree, although this is just based on my instinct. It seems to me that the stock heat shielding would mitigate most of this problem, and enhanced shielding would all but eliminate it. One or two inches of airspace would not make as much difference as properly designed heat shielding. My opinion is that the radiated heat would only raise the head exterior temp a few tens of degrees, relatively insignificant... assuming good coolant flow. I have some other thoughts, and plan on starting a thread and asking for some info from you folks with more "history" with the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 3, 2005 Author Share Posted January 3, 2005 Yes. But at that point...you are going to need to be thinking about having a spare tranny laying around...or taking the RX box apart and put some more strenght into it. the EJ boxes are better due to the center diff package...and they will hold more power right out of the box. I know that EJ boxes will definately stand more power, but how much would EA's box stand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 i know for a fact that stock fuel management sucks large amount of rear end You Tell Em Brother!!! In a few weeks, I'll hit the local chasis dyno. I should have some fine tuned fuel maps and hopefully spark maps as well. Anyone want to hazard a guess at what I'll pull? garner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Question about swapping EJ20T... is it possible to make adaptor plate between EA82T's gearbox and EJ20T engine so that they could be connected to each other? Yes, Mudrat has put together a kit to do just that.... garner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 You Tell Em Brother!!! In a few weeks, I'll hit the local chasis dyno. I should have some fine tuned fuel maps and hopefully spark maps as well. Anyone want to hazard a guess at what I'll pull? garner 173hp at the wheels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 155 whp Tex.. your stuff is on its way too you.. The UPS store told me there no such place as Lynnwood, Wa.. I'll bet there are a whole lot of people that will be surprised to hear that..lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 You Tell Em Brother!!! In a few weeks, I'll hit the local chasis dyno. I should have some fine tuned fuel maps and hopefully spark maps as well. Anyone want to hazard a guess at what I'll pull? garner You'll pull between 120-130whp. :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattyg41383 Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 I didnt catch the psi, but Im gonna go along with Myx and say 130 at the wheels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Myx, Did you ever get your dynos for the RX? I'd love to know what the "base line" is on the EA82T....Also what that beautiful pulley did for it..... I want dyno numbers on my motor not for bragging rights but to shed some reality on the subject and to have some real numbers. I get tired of the guesses at what people are getting out of their motors. It's easy to assume that starting with 115hp stock, adding exhaust (+25hp) adding an intake (+25hp) and turning up boost (+40hp) all the sudden, their "getting 205hp" Yeah right!!! My motor .5mm overbored EA82T Balanced everything Ported and Polished heads 5 angle valve job -7lbs light flywheel Delta Cams TDO4 (ported and polished "hot side") (~8lbs for now) WRX TMIC Gutted WRX down pipe "Garner-Tronix" header "Garner-Tronix" Ultralight Crank Pulley MegaSquirt (soon to be MS&S Extra) I honestly think if I get to 150whp, that will be amazing. I don't want to bust anyones bubble and I encourage people to get the absolute max out of these motors, I believe they are a good, cheap platform for haulin rump roast but really, I don't see them putting out an honest 200whp....But, I'd love to be proven wrong, and know what the secret is.... I'll keep you posted with what I find... garner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 ...But, I'd love to be proven wrong, and know what the secret is.... RPM... about 8000 of them. 9000 would be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Myx, Did you ever get your dynos for the RX? I'd love to know what the "base line" is on the EA82T....Also what that beautiful pulley did for it..... garner Yes I did Garner. See the post in the link below:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24534&highlight=turbo+dyno I was meaning to get the RX turbo dyno'd this week. One of the friggi' brand new Kumho tires got a flat sometime when it snowed lightly here in the middle of last week. The hole was patchable but I rode on the flat a little too long and screwed up the inside of the tire to the point metal wire was showing. I ordered a new tire Thursday for 1 day shipment last week. Unfortunately the holidays (New Years) held back my shipment and it still haven't gone out even today. :banghead: :banghead: *As u can see, I'm angry* If the sun and moon hits some perfect mathematical junction, maybe I'll get it tomorrow so I can test things out Wednesday. The next dyno test is to test your pulley (The Garner Pulley) vs my stock runs. Then I'll re-install my intercooler and do some more runs. This way, people can get some type of idea what they can expect with a 2lb lighter pulley and especially an intercooler upgrade. I'm even looking forward to that. Stupid stuff happens though. Oh yeah....also I'll be changing air filter testing a ghetto Autozone air filter vs a K&N unit I have from this post--> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27803 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Koo Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 Yes, Mudrat has put together a kit to do just that.... Okay, this will help me much to know that it is possible. But how much will EA82T gearbox hold, 300hp? It's easy to assume that starting with 115hp stock, adding exhaust (+25hp) adding an intake (+25hp) and turning up boost (+40hp) all the sudden, their "getting 205hp" Yeah right!!!you said starting 115hp stock... I thought it was 136hp :-\ or that's what I've been told... (~8lbs for now)Just a question, why only 8lbs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 you said starting 115hp stock... I thought it was 136hp :-\ or that's what I've been told... USDM 85-86 EA82T 111hp 87-90 EA82T 115hp EDM Year ? 136 AUDM - - no idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Do It Sidewayz Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 I believe that eh European EA82T motors made someplace in the range of 140 hp. I believe the main difference between the engines was the lack of cats. and they have better fuel. If you were to throw a good exhaust and run good fuel you should be somewhere around there. I really have no reason NOT to believe that an EA82T running a full catless exhaust (for race applications ofcouse ) and run 94octane fuel (we get 94 up here) you would be around 140 crank HP. I'm sure the Exhaust system with worth around 20 hp. The stock exhaust is terribly restrictive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 I believe that eh European EA82T motors made someplace in the range of 140 hp. I believe the main difference between the engines was the lack of cats. and they have better fuel. The EDM cars are 136hp. The ECUs are different from what I am told. They do not use an )2 sensor for one thing. The have a factory EGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 It IS the lack of cats, and the ecu is a little different for the EGT instead of the O2 setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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