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switched to synthetic


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Hey guys,

 

I just switched the Brat to synthetic oils. Amsoil in the tranny and rear end. Castrol syntec in the engine. I will switch the engine oil to amsoil also. The vehicle starts easier, shifts better, runs smoother and quieter. It also seems to have picked up a HP or so. Will let you know what it did to the gas mileage.

 

Klaus

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hi

 

from what i heard, to swidh to full syntetic oil in an old cars....it's not so good....but if the engine is working fine , than to change from mineral oil (20w50) to 15w40 or better is half syntetic (10w40) - this is very good and the engine will work better, but the full syntetic will make the oil leak from some places there....

 

i think it's better to usu half syntetic 10w40.

thank you.

moshe.

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let the debate begin again...:D

 

I've used both in my 86 and never had more than a drop or two leak, but my motor is pretty tight.

 

The way I look at it - synthetic has to be better. If it leaks a bunch then it's time for a re-seal. If not then :banana: .

 

Everyone has their own opinion.

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let the debate begin again...:D

 

I've used both in my 86 and never had more than a drop or two leak, but my motor is pretty tight.

 

The way I look at it - synthetic has to be better. If it leaks a bunch then it's time for a re-seal. If not then :banana: .

 

Everyone has their own opinion.

for new cars, new engine's.....

synthetic's oil's are too light for the old boxer subaru engine.

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Been running Mobile1 10w30 in my Brat for the last 6.5years of over 7 that I have owned it, doesn't leak a drop with 193k miles on it also Redline in the transmission. Had a 142 k when I made the switch. Switched a 93 Legacy at 115k to Mobile1 10w30 and it now has 182k without any leaks. The Legacy and Brat both use about 8ozs. every 5k. Syntec is hydrocracked oil not POA like the better synthetic oils unless you have German Castrol Syntec.

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I'm german allright, but I don't have german syntec :)

 

So when did castrol change to hydrocracked? And can someone explain to me what hydrocracked means and why it's bad? In just 1 or 2 sentences.

 

Thanks

Klaus

 

 

Been running Mobile1 10w30 in my Brat for the last 6.5years of over 7 that I have owned it, doesn't leak a drop with 193k miles on it also Redline in the transmission. Had a 142 k when I made the switch. Switched a 93 Legacy at 115k to Mobile1 10w30 and it now has 182k without any leaks. The Legacy and Brat both use about 8ozs. every 5k. Syntec is hydrocracked oil not POA like the better synthetic oils unless you have German Castrol Syntec.
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What I have been told hydrocracking is:

 

The big long chains of molecules in dino oil are broken down into really small ones, which are then built back up in appropriately sized chains of molecules.

 

Why exactly it is inferior to an actual synthetic, I am not sure. Possibly because it still comes from dino oil and is therefore not as pure?

 

 

 

I am not going to get into the synthetic vs dino oil arguments again. People will believe what they want to, so I'll let them.

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I am not going to get into the synthetic vs dino oil arguments again. People will believe what they want to, so I'll let them.

What if I don't want to let you let me believe what I want to? I have that right and I may excersize it. I am in control of my own destiny even if someone else doesn't let me. :-\ :confused:
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I run snythetic in my cars, motor and trannie. From what i've learned working in crude refineries the whole dino versus synth debate is mostly meaningless the real difference is the manufacturer[sp?], dino or synth. A close look at the make up of alot of synthetics reveals price targeting, ie compromises in integrity to make a price point. Snowman's explanation of hydrocarbon cracking is accurate.

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I would like to continue the synthetic vs. dino oil debate. if you think synthetic makes your car leak more oil, you're WRONG. plain and simple. the car needs new seals, not different oil

sorry, you my friend are wrong. there have been many, many folks on here who have switched from dino to synth and experienced oil leaks. Sure, the seals may be older, but it was in fact the synth that caused the leaks. There have also been many many on here who have switched to synth with no problems as well. A good dino and filter, changed regularly will do just fine.

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wow this is almost like clock work. I see this thread once a month. same debate back and forth.

 

i was took it serious at first but now I just dont care.

 

run what ever you like. I have run both and will run both. the thing that determins what I run now is price. I just cant afford red line oil changes. If I could I would for sure.

 

oh right. I almost forgot. If you think your motor will leak with the use of synthetic then dont use it. if you want a better oil and can pay for it please do its better stuff for sure. I have never seen or experienced this mystry synthetic leakage over many years of use in many different cars but some say it happens. decide for your self.

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wow this is almost like clock work. I see this thread once a month. same debate back and forth.

 

Seems like I opened a can of worms. I just wanted to make a statement to let everyone know that I made the plunge into synthetic.

I know it's better oil. The fact that I run my Brat near 5000 rpm's on a regular basis for hundreds of miles at a time made me switch.

 

Klaus

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All of the below are Total synthetic. I have used it in all of the Gen ones I have had for 20 years. Never an issue, just better protection and performance.

 

Like I said in a previous post....Why do you think FAA regs require only the use of a full synthetic in aviation engines????????????

 

Todd

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