Myxalplyx Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I figured that I'd probably have some questions about the installation (or removal of stock parts) so I may as well make a thread about it. Since I'm no mechanic, I have to be very careful about what I'm taking apart and such since I'm not familiar with a lot of parts in application (only on paper). Techworks instructions state, "Removal of the engine mounts and raising the front of the engine slightly,will allow easier fitment of the TechWorks Engineering header/up-pipe. (Please note that we have not remove engine mount fasteners for any of the installs we have performed in house)." I don't quite understand what it means to remove the engine mounts but keep the fasteners in place. ??? Also, I'm trying to identify where the engine mounts are. Remember, talk to me like you would a 6 year old. I don't mind since I'm trying to learn about this stuff. So here are a couple of pics. I'm assuming this is a passenger side engine mount. I'm talking about the piece to the bottom right of the open exhaust port. If so, is this one of the bolts I need to remove/loosen to raise the engine slightly? Here's another pic: This is what looks like an engine mount on the driver's side of the car. Is the rusted bolt in the center another one of the bolts I need to remove/loosen to raise the engine? There's also another bolt underneath this 'engine mount' (if this is what this is) that looks like it's attached to the driver's side one. Here: See this bolt ^ (In the middle section, in the dark area, kinda rusty). It looks like it's on the bottom side of the driver's side engine mount. Do I have to do anything with this bolt also (If I'm getting the engine mount locations correct)? I can't remove the stock header because of the head shield that's wrapped around the passenger side exhaust port section. I tried to be creative getting it out but it seems to get pretty snugg in that hole (You can see it on the first pic, bottom right). Thanks for any help. BTW: If I run into any more problems (which I know I will), I'll just ask them in this thread instead of posting more threads. So far I've gotten all the intake plumbing removed, the downpipe, and the turbo including the oil and coolant lines. Oh...and anothe important question. At what point on the engine do I put my jack to do the raising? The last thing I want to do is try to raise the engine at a bad location and have my jack go through something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Myx, I haven't installed a Techworks Header but I have installed one I made myself so I'll chime in here Yes, Those look to be the motor mount nuts, You will likely need to remove them completly to jack the engine up. Jack the engine up by the oilpan with a piece of 3/4 plywood between the jack and the oilpan for protection. The stock header is a b*&%h to remove, I remeber laying on my creeper under the car while twisting, pulling, yanking cursing. I eventually got it but it was snug. I had to jack the motor up probably 3-4 inches. Oh yea, don't forget to remove the pitching stopper on top (AKA stiffy bar) Now, My questions for you, What inside diameter is the primary tubing and what diameter is the output to turbo hole? Get that shiz on there and get back to the dyno, I want factual #s!!! garner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 That motor will have to come up as much as you dare the higher the easier your life will be. Jack it up from as far back as possible I jacked mine from the behind the bell houusing are as i found with the jack under the oil pan I couldn't get the manuverability i needed to wrangle the header into position. A large hose clamp works wonders for placing the ps lines where you want them too after the're bent to clear the pipes. I removed the ps line bolt that sits down under neath the turbo, and the 2 bolts holding the ps lines to the motor as well to get the slack needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 11, 2005 Author Share Posted January 11, 2005 Oh yea, don't forget to remove the pitching stopper on top (AKA stiffy bar) Now, My questions for you, What inside diameter is the primary tubing and what diameter is the output to turbo hole? The bar is removed/raised. Thanks guys! I'll get to this tomorrow. Garner, I'll give you the diameter of the stock exhaust port, inlet to header, uppipe outlet, inlet to turbo, outlet from turbo and inlet to downpipe if you want it. Actually, I've already measured the downpipe. I'm not expert but I did the best I could. Stock downpipe inlet seemed to be 2" and outlet 1 6/8". Techworks downpipe inlet is 2 1/2" and outlet is 2 1/2". I took pictures of them on the ground as well as the stock turbo and GT17 turbo. I've always liked pics. I'll post them up when I get a chance. I have to run out to pick the wifey up and go food grocery shopping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tizzle Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 In the installation guide it said, that TWE had not had to raise the engine on the installations done in there shop. Did you find that you couldn't manouver without raising it? Haven't gotten my shipment yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 BS Maybe they lowered the car:lol:, there's no way they could've done so. I don't think i could even get the stock header out without raising the car. It's super easy to do anyhow, I'd be more worried about the ps lines and the fight with them, I'm still choked I had to mess with those, on both cars I put the TWE pipes on, double pain in the rump roast. Why does suby ps leak so friggin much i've never seen a clean crossmember yet:-\. Jacking the motor's a cakewalk, wrangling the header into positions a bit of a go, the on bolt on the pass. sides nasty too don't forget to do it first. Also might wanna buy the bolts for the header to the turbo too, SS is best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 OMG...why does everyone have header issues but ME? Ive NEVER jacked an engine to get the stock header OUT or IN. With the PS lines, you WILL need to lift the engine...BUT with OUT the PS lines, its not necessary. Either way...there is a nut on the bottom side of the crossmember holdind the engine mount in place...its a 14MM. Remove that one to lift the engine. DONT remove the ones holding the engine to the mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 12, 2005 Author Share Posted January 12, 2005 Either way...there is a nut on the bottom side of the crossmember holdind the engine mount in place...its a 14MM. Remove that one to lift the engine. DONT remove the ones holding the engine to the mounts.Will, I had planned on continuing this later today. The ones you say NOT to remove are the ones I show in the pictures right? Do you happen to see the nut your are referring to in ANY of my pics? If so, which one? Thanks! These are the kinds of things I need to know. Remember, I'm a 6yr old working on the car. You mention only ONE nut to remove to lift the engine vs two. It seems you suggest differently than what Garner posted. Interesting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 myx, I think he meant one nut per side. That's what I meant too garner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 he is talking about the "stud" that runs thru the mount, and goes into the crossmember. there is a nut on the bottom side of the mounts, I think it's a 12 or a 14, but take that off. should be able to see it from underneith the crossmember. and I feel what you guys are saying about the underside of these engines, its kinda like somebody threw up oil ALLL over it and then we drove thru a mud hole or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky_pete Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 There's a good chance with the buildup of goop under the car that you might not be able to find the bolts without doing some cleaning on your crossmember. Just trace your mounts down and look under the crossmember for the bolts. I'll look and see if I have a pic to show you for a reference. I just picked up a turbowagon that is in dire need of mechanical assistance. Since the turbo is bad on it already and the downpipe is a rusty mess, I figured why not do a little upgrading in the process. Are the headers & downpipes stilll available from TWE? I know yours are custom made for the garret, but what did they run you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 pipes are still avalible from Folger SUBARU in charlotte NC. $399 for the header and $199 for the DP. Contact Mike Melton at 1-704-536-9635. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky_pete Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 pipes are still avalible from Folger SUBARU in charlotte NC. $399 for the header and $199 for the DP. Contact Mike Melton at 1-704-536-9635. Sweet, now I just have to break open my piggy bank... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 13, 2005 Author Share Posted January 13, 2005 I know yours are custom made for the garret, but what did they run you?Hey Spanky_Pete, The price for my header/uppipe and downpipe was: Header -> $399US Down-pipe -> $219US (for use with the GT17 turbo). GT17 Turbo -> $395US As for Garner (or anyone else who wants to know), here are the diameters of various things I measured under the car earlier today. Mind you, I may have made a mistake in my measuring but I did the best I could. Stock engine exhaust port 2" Header-Uppipes Stock: Inlets- 1 1/2", Outlet(Uppipe)- 1 3/8" Techworks: Inlets- 1 7/8", Outlet (Uppipe)- 1 5/8- 2" *Note* Outlet of uppipe is oval in shape. Turbos *Note: Turbo inlets were difficult to measure since they are recessed somewhat inside the turbo housing.* Stock VF7: Inlet- 1 5/8", Outlet- 1 6/8" Techworks Garret GT17: Inlet- 1 7/8", Outlet- 2 1/2" Downpipes Stock: Inlet- 2", Outlet 1 6/8" Techworks: Inlet- 2 1/2", Outlet 2 1/2" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 13, 2005 Author Share Posted January 13, 2005 On another note: I'm still having trouble with the engine mount(s). I removed the two 14mm nuts that I thought you guys were referring too from each side of the engine, underneath the engine mounts. A picture would be worth a thousand words. I'll continue to look in my FSMs to be extra sure but I'm thinking I'm looking at the wrong nuts. :-\ Lol! Warning! I found it dangerous to lift the engine from the oil pan. The shape of the oil pan can allow your jack to slide around. This happened to me when I was trying to jack the engine up using the oil pan. I thought it was balanced but since the oil pan isn't entirely flat, it slid a few inches. You can imagine the look on my face despite 4 other jacks being on the sides of the car. Also, the oil pan compressed in slightly due to the lifting. I didn't like that too much either but I can live with it. Still not high enough since the whole car seemed to be lifting as well. Here are a few pics of stock EA82T andTechworks (TWE) parts. Header/Uppipe combos. TWE header/uppipe on top while the stock unit is on the bottom. This picture is of the stock VF7 turbo (Did I get this right?) and the TWE Garret GT17 (From a Saab). The stock turbo unit is on the left while the TWE turbo unit is on the right. Here's a pic of the stock downpipe and the TWE downpipe. The TWE downpipe is on the top while the stock downpipe is on the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 neato. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky_pete Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 On another note: I'm still having trouble with the engine mount(s). I removed the two 14mm nuts that I thought you guys were referring too from each side of the engine, underneath the engine mounts. A picture would be worth a thousand words. I'll continue to look in my FSMs to be extra sure but I'm thinking I'm looking at the wrong nuts. :-\ Lol! I used your pics as a reference, see if this helps. Look _under_ the crossmember in those spots for a single 14mm nut to remove. Basically, the stud is attached to the motor mounts and passes through the rubber piece and into a slot in the crossmember where the nut is tightened down on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Try lifting the motor/trannie from in behind the belllhousing towards the trannie, it's solid and you'll have much needed room for manuverability. The car will move with the motor and trannie being lifted until the struts are fully unwieghted so as long as nothing is binding that's normal. and I can't wait to here what a BB turbo will do for one of these cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted January 13, 2005 Author Share Posted January 13, 2005 I used your pics as a reference, see if this helps. Look _under_ the crossmember in those spots for a single 14mm nut to remove. Basically, the stud is attached to the motor mounts and passes through the rubber piece and into a slot in the crossmember where the nut is tightened down on it. Thanks a bunch! I'll look into it tomorrow. I was unscrewing the wrong nuts. I need to get used to making arrows and such in my pics. I'll practice that tonight. Vanislru, I'll try your suggestion on lifting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky_pete Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Thanks a bunch! I'll look into it tomorrow. I was unscrewing the wrong nuts. I need to get used to making arrows and such in my pics. I'll practice that tonight. Vanislru, I'll try your suggestion on lifting. Glad the pics helped. Thanks for the pics of your pipes, those are snazzy looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 Glad the pics helped. Thanks for the pics of your pipes, those are snazzy looking. i posted pics of my pipes... :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky_pete Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 i posted pics of my pipes... :-p Yeah ok, but I just got a turbo car. So, if I saw your pics I didn't pay any attention to them at the time. For good measure, I just looked at your thread again. Now I know I have to get a header for my wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 Header-Uppipes Stock: Inlets- 1 1/2", Outlet(Uppipe)- 1 3/8" Techworks: Inlets- 1 7/8", Outlet (Uppipe)- 1 5/8- 2" *Note* Outlet of uppipe is oval in shape. Wow, that's big, let us know about lag.....I made mine 1 5/8 in and out. It flows like crazy but boost comes on quite a bit latter than before garner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 Oh yea, I guess with your Garret BB turbo maybe lag won't be an issue.... what did that thing cost? garner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 I haven't noticed much more lag but a sweet BB turbo would offset any lag from the extra ID I would think, my turbo spools about 300-500 rpm later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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