Tom Dunn Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 I need to replace the right ball joint on my 1991 Subaru Legacy wagon. You mechanical types are probably saying "So?", but please bear in mind that I'm a CARPENTER! With that in mind, any and all hints, suggestions, info on how difficult a job it is, ect would be MUCH appreciated!!!! It's not like I don't know how to run a wrench, but its not my strong suite. Any special tools? Anything that has to be adjusted? If I fix your porch will you change the ball joint for me??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 I need to replace the right ball joint on my 1991 Subaru Legacy wagon. You mechanical types are probably saying "So?", but please bear in mind that I'm a CARPENTER! With that in mind, any and all hints, suggestions, info on how difficult a job it is, ect would be MUCH appreciated!!!! It's not like I don't know how to run a wrench, but its not my strong suite. Any special tools? Anything that has to be adjusted? If I fix your porch will you change the ball joint for me??? It really is easy. At the bottom of the balljoint there is a 17mm nut that is held in place with a cotter pin. Take out the pin and remove the nut. The top of the balljoint is attached with a pinch bolt (10mm). Take out the bolt (completely, there is a groove that the bolt lays in near the top of the balljoint). Put a flat bladed screwdriver (or a small crowbar) in the slot between the sides of the pinched area to loosten it a bit and make removal easier. Hammer down on the crossmember to pull the balljoint from the top mount. Use a "Picklefork" Only special tool that you really need, you can find it at your local auto parts store. They will know what you are talking about, and what size, if you tell them what you are doing. Some will even be able to loan you one) to remove the bottom part. Installation of the new one is similarly easy. Put the bottom in first, and tighten the bolt to make it as secure as possable (no cotter pin yet) Use the crowbar again to spread the sides of the top mount slightly and put the top of the ball joint in place. I found that taking a jack and pushing up on the ball joint enough to lift the car off of the jackstand helped in putting the ball joint into the top of the mount, but be careful with this as the car could slip off of that jack, with spectacular results (do not have any part of your body under the car when you do this. . .). When the ball joint is fully seated in the top mount, you will be able to replace the pinch bolt. Now torque down the bottom nut and install the cotter pin. Reinstall the wheel and go directly to an alignment center and have your front end aligned. It is that easy. (It was harder to type the instructions than the job itself actually is. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Dunn Posted January 13, 2005 Author Share Posted January 13, 2005 Good instructions, Thanks! I'm with ya on the pickle fork thing, I used one years ago replacing tie-rod ends in a Ford F150 I owned. I borrowed the fork, but I still have the hammer! And I have access to a good shop to work in, provided I buy the owner enough beer and hot wings for "rent". This is my first Subaru, bought off ebay no less! Looking foward to driving and caring for it for some time yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morgantruce Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 I just came in from the garage where I was removing a bad ball joint on my '88 GL. I was having trouble getting the balljoint out because the control arm kept wanting to spring upwards. I removed the small bolt that secures the two small straps that secure the torsion bar to the control arm---- big difference! Now the control arm droops down low enough so there is plenty of room to get the balljont out and the new one in (without buggering it up). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Reinstall the wheel and go directly to an alignment center and have your front end aligned. It is that easy. (It was harder to type the instructions than the job itself actually is. . . I'd just replace both front ball joints at the same time then. First, you've probably loaned a pickle-fork, so make good use of it. Second, if you're paying $50 for an alignment, you might as well make sure you're not going to need to get another one some time soon. Therefore check all suspension and drive-axle components well while doing this, including tie-rod ends, struts, and CV boots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Nice posts. I'm just about to change the ball joints on my 99 Forester. I decided to buy a ball joint/ tie rod end LIFTER (only about $12). With a lifter you can pop the ball joints and tie rod ends WITHOUT destroying the rubber grease boots on these components. It should be a much more useful tool than a pickle fork. Somtimes you may want to pop the ball joint without having to replace it. As far as I know, a wheel alignment should not be required after simply replacing the ball joints. I don't see where you would be changing caster/ camber or toe in/ toe out. If I am wrong on this, please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swi66 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Nice posts. I'm just about to change the ball joints on my 99 Forester. I decided to buy a ball joint/ tie rod end LIFTER (only about $12). With a lifter you can pop the ball joints and tie rod ends WITHOUT destroying the rubber grease boots on these components. It should be a much more useful tool than a pickle fork. Somtimes you may want to pop the ball joint without having to replace it.As far as I know, a wheel alignment should not be required after simply replacing the ball joints. I don't see where you would be changing caster/ camber or toe in/ toe out. If I am wrong on this, please let me know. If you come from a climate where rust is an issue, be sure to use a torch to heat up the bolt which keeps the ball joint in place. You don't want to break it and have to drill it out. swi66 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northguy Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 edrach did an excellent write up on this with some brilliant insight. It's worth a search to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Nice posts. I'm just about to change the ball joints on my 99 Forester. I decided to buy a ball joint/ tie rod end LIFTER (only about $12). With a lifter you can pop the ball joints and tie rod ends WITHOUT destroying the rubber grease boots on these components. It should be a much more useful tool than a pickle fork. Somtimes you may want to pop the ball joint without having to replace it.As far as I know, a wheel alignment should not be required after simply replacing the ball joints. I don't see where you would be changing caster/ camber or toe in/ toe out. If I am wrong on this, please let me know. If the balljoint is bad, it has likely been in there a long time. chances are that the alignment was done at least once when the balljoint was "marginal" (particularly if the previous owner went to a "not so reputable" shop. . .), and with the new ball joint putting everything in it's correct place, those adjustments are now "out of whack", and need to be corrected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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