HELP! New battery/dead alternator?

[telemark]

I first replaced my battery last week after doing a jump on a friend's van. (Stupidly, I had done it with both cables on my battery and not the negative grounded on the chasis, as I knew was better, yet tried that way after it didn't seem to be charging the van).

It seemed before and after the new battery was installed that the alternator worked- the lights would get brighter with higher rpm like they ought to normally.

Then, after about 300 miles, while driving, the lights get way dim and it decides to just die. My gf gives me a jump, three times to get home (the correct way), the last time we figured out that we had to charge it 30 min to get home that last 10 miles.

 

So, the battery is brand new Autolite from Kragen (it was free, under warranty). I am now wondering that this incorrect jump I performed last week has fried my alternator and/or voltage regulator (and why did it take so long to come about?). I am also wondering if there may be other possible causes or effects from this same issue- like if I replace the alternator will I expect to see more problems down the line with other electrical parts? Certainly this new battery is ok still, no? Could this be a fuse or fuse link instead of the alternator?

 

Also- does the Legacy have a generator AND an alternator? If so, could the problem be in the generator?

 

Thanks in advance for any help!

_________________

93 Legacy L 210K AWD/Automatic SW

[edrach]

No, you only have an alternator. Sounds to me that your alternator is not charging your battery while you drive. Any auto parts store will check your alternator for free (of course they'll want you to buy their alternator if that's the case so call around and price alternators by 'phone before deciding which parts store should check your alternator). I'm assuming you have a later model alternator which has and internal voltage regulator.

I first replaced my battery last week after doing a jump on a friend's van. (Stupidly, I had done it with both cables on my battery and not the negative grounded on the chasis, as I knew was better, yet tried that way after it didn't seem to be charging the van).

It seemed before and after the new battery was installed that the alternator worked- the lights would get brighter with higher rpm like they ought to normally.

Then, after about 300 miles, while driving, the lights get way dim and it decides to just die. My gf gives me a jump, three times to get home (the correct way), the last time we figured out that we had to charge it 30 min to get home that last 10 miles.

 

So, the battery is brand new Autolite from Kragen (it was free, under warranty). I am now wondering that this incorrect jump I performed last week has fried my alternator and/or voltage regulator (and why did it take so long to come about?). I am also wondering if there may be other possible causes or effects from this same issue- like if I replace the alternator will I expect to see more problems down the line with other electrical parts? Certainly this new battery is ok still, no? Could this be a fuse or fuse link instead of the alternator?

 

Also- does the Legacy have a generator AND an alternator? If so, could the problem be in the generator?

 

Thanks in advance for any help!

_________________

93 Legacy L 210K AWD/Automatic SW

[SevenSisters]

You didn't jump it right, but it wasn't real wrong.

 

The last connection is when the sparks can fly and potentially ignite hydrogen gas produced by the battery. Can make a real mess, burn you, blind you, etc.

It makes good sense to do the last connection away from the battery to a ground. By the way, ground is hooked directly to the negative battery terminal so there is really no difference. Just safety.

[telemark]

You didn't jump it right, but it wasn't real wrong.

 

The last connection is when the sparks can fly and potentially ignite hydrogen gas produced by the battery. Can make a real mess, burn you, blind you, etc.

It makes good sense to do the last connection away from the battery to a ground. By the way, ground is hooked directly to the negative battery terminal so there is really no difference. Just safety.

So, the amperage from my car to the van is what did it... I wonder why the alternator waited until after the new battery was put in to crap out?

 

I've been told that Soobie electrical systems can be sensitive to jumps that way. Did I fry some computer part I wonder?

[frag]

So, the amperage from my car to the van is what did it... I wonder why the alternator waited until after the new battery was put in to crap out?

 

I've been told that Soobie electrical systems can be sensitive to jumps that way. Did I fry some computer part I wonder?

Maybe it did'nt wait that long. Driving without much accessories on, it can take a relatively long time to drain a good and fully charged battery.

[telemark]

Maybe it did'nt wait that long. Driving without much accessories on, it can take a relatively long time to drain a good and fully charged battery.

Actually, I was wondering why the alt. seemed to work (headlights got brighter w/ gas) after the battery was replaced (as well as before).

[Cougar]

You most likely blew out some of the diodes after the jump was made. The alternators tend to be weak in Subarus and are prone to problems like this. Jumping others cars can be riskey to the charging system.

[Setright]

Correct jump start:

 

 

Both cars off. Connect cables. Start the jumper. Idle for 10-15 minutes to charge the jumpee a little. TURN OFF the jumper and then try to start the jumpee - with the cables still connected.

 

This way, you protect the jumpers charge and ignition system.