MudisFun Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 I need help, if you guys don't mind. EA82 MPFI Head gasket replacement, using a kit. It would been great to get a list of tools needed, besides those found in a everyday persons tool set. Also tips and proper sealants (where to use them). I will also be doing a oil pan gasket, should I use silicone to cork? I hope to get a good write-up for more detailed how to manual with pics! Names will be given credit. Thanks ahead of time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted January 22, 2005 Author Share Posted January 22, 2005 Milesfox; were are you brother? Help a lear'n man out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 Factory service manual is your friend http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted January 22, 2005 Author Share Posted January 22, 2005 Thanks Calebz, but still the list help would nice based on personal jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 buy all the new gaskets and seals you'll need. new cam cover seals with the rubber edged grommets for the outer bolts. two o-rings for the oil passages between the camcase and the heads, new head gaskets, hi temp ultra blue silcone for the camcase to head seals. new intake gaskets, new exhaust gaskets (the thick shiny metal gaskets) the oil pan gasket - get from a subaru dealer. I recommend using all subaru oem parts/gaskets Tools needed: 10 mm socket/wrench, 12 mm socket, 17 mm deep well socket for the head bolts, 14 mm deep socket for the exhaust nuts and the engine mounts ( I suggest pulling the engine. it only takes about 10 more minutes to lift the engine out. trying to do headgaskets on the disty side is diffcult because of the lack of room on that side.) For installation, you will need to torq the head bolts down 3 times. 27, 43 and 47 pounds. a chiltons or haynes manual or the FSM has the diagram of the tightening sequence. Since you have everything off your engine now, you might as well reseal your oil pump. there is a round o ring and a mickeymouse shaped o ring good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 HG job huh? not too bad. needed tools- engine hoist and stand if you want to do it the easy way. if not you can figure out another way. 3/8" drive torque wrench is really helpfull to do the head bolts and others. basic tools. metric wrenches ratchets extensions ect. scrapers, gasket removers with a die grinder are helpfull. I would have a decent machine shop look at the heads maby resurface and do a valve job with new seals from your "kit". pulling the motor is really not that hard. basic things disconnect the harnesses by the batt. remove the clutch cable(if its a M/T) amd throttle cable. dont for get the hill holder if it has one. disconnect fuel lines and disty connections. after draining coolant I like to pull the radiator to prevent damage but its not needed. oh of course you disconnect all hoses to the motor. remove exhaust after soaking bolts with good penitrating fluid(you do have new manifold gaskets?) if it has A/C flop the compressor aside with out disconnecting the lines. (compressor has a bolt from the bottom that is a pain) if there is power steering disconect the hoses and pull the pump with the motor.(dont forget the hold downs on the right side of the motor for the lines) pull wires off Alt. and remve alt.(you did disconnect/remove the battery?) disconnect fuel canister hoses. pull motor out after unbolting the two bolts on the bottom and the dog bone up top along with the trany to motor bolts. it need to come up then forward. support the trans with a good flor jack.(car is on jack stands right?) remove intake manifold with all the crap still attached and set aside. remove P/S and all remaing brackets ect. I use duct tape to hold bolts with the brackets they belong to. remove V/C's and cam towers then the heads. Timing belts and disty have to come out/Off too. save your self some trouble and set the motor to TDC #1 or to the three slash timing mark. mark with paint the disty to case, rotor to disty and timing belt pullys. oil pan gasket along with the oil pump, crank seals, clutch, timing belts, water pump are all easy to do at this phase of your project. sealants. permatex ultra grey on the cam towers. HG dry. intake and other paper gaskets I like the permatex aviation sealant. oil pan gasket can go on dory or with a little bit of aviation sealant to help hold it in place. no silicone on it. you can use just straight ultra grey as a pan gasket but thats not how the motor came so most people dont do it that way. I probably missed lots of stuff but its not hard to figure out what needs to be done. good luck. If you dont have a FSM then get a Haynes manuel. you will want a book for torque specs ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 he haynes book has the torque sequence. it is very important you torque the bolts in a specific pattern, using a 3 step torque there are shorter and longer bolts, the shorter bolts will go in the more recessed holes. start with teh bolt in the dead center, then the 2 above, and work in a radial pattern, tracing around the cyls. does anyone have a pic of the sequence? i snug the bolts by hand tight, then 25 lbs first round, 45 snd round, 55 3rd round. reverse order for removing the heads www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild here is a photographic sequence of an entire headgasket overhaul for an ea82 turbo, including all engine seals. notice the pictures used copper sislicone on the cam boxes but you will want to use anaerobic gray sealer. orange is best on the exhaust, and i like to use it on the intake as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted January 22, 2005 Author Share Posted January 22, 2005 Engine is out and here I go! Wish me luck, thank for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tizzle Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 Hey, if you really get stuck in a rut, Let me know, as I am in bham often, and having just changed my engine, I could lend a hand. --Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 Three problems: 1. Lifters, how the hell do you remove them? Just pull? 2. When I looked at the timing marks on the two cams and crank the stock marks are all off. The driver side is only about five degrees advanced, but the pass is almost 180 degrees off. Don't worry I made my marks but is this a problem. 3. I wasn't planing on taking the valves anywhere for their stem seals and seats, so I didn't buy a spring compressor. When I took the head off there were cracks between the valves on both sides. The engine will be taken apart again in a year, should I use something (wire brush) to clean the valves untill I find newer heads for the rebuild in a year? Thanks :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phishy75 Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 Just pull the lifters - sometimes they take a bit o' wigglin. The two cam pullies are supposed to be 180 degrees apart from each other, your saying that the one that is 'up' is not quite straight up - are you sure you are on the right mark on the flywheel??? There are the markings with the numbers for setting the timing, and just before those there are three small closely spaces marks. you want to be on the middle mark of those three (TDC) then one cam should be straight up, and the other straight down. One good point for when you are reassembling - put the cam tower that is straight up (the pully marker) on first, then rotate the flywheel once so it is down, and then put the other one on with the mark up. When the mark is up, the cam lobes are all away from the rockers so there is no interference. Hope you're having more fun than me - i wish i had the gear and the space to pull my motor for these jobs:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 I used small hand tools, two jacks, and three beer bribed friends to do the lifting for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phishy75 Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 I used small hand tools, two jacks, and three beer bribed friends to do the lifting for me. Hope most of the beer bribing took place after the motor was out. Pancaked toes suck:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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