oh boy...think I messed up!!

[Geocritter]

Hey guys,

 

I'm in the process (stopped by an ice storm just as I was getting good and frustrated) of putting a manual choke on my EA82 87 GL wagon 4wd. Got the cable routed ok, still fighting with finding a bracket to hold the cable. I think I may have it figured out, assuming I didn't take off something necessary to begin with. Probably should've not tried it on my own, but what can I say.

 

Biggest issue is the vaccuum hoses. There must have been a zillion of them on the air cleaner. I've broken off a couple in the cold air, and having made a conversion to manual choke, will be plugging off a couple, I'm sure. Never seen anything like it. But the bottom line is, I have no idea which ones are the mickey mouse garbage and how many are really necessary. Can anybody give me an idea? A diagram of which hoses I could maybe plug off/get rid of? I'm not in an emissions control state, so I don't really worry about that kind of stuff. Anything I can get rid of would be fine.

 

My Haynes manual is next to useless with hoses, so maybe somebody could help.

 

Thanks!

Dan

[85Sub4WD]

For the most part, the ones you REALLY want to be careful of are the ones that are related to the vacuum advance, the one that controls the EGR system, and the one that is used for the A/C actuators (it goes to the back rt. side of the engine compartment). HOWEVER, from expierence, you really don't want to start playing around with the vacuum lines. Most all do have a real, needed purpose (and at the very least you will bomb the next emissions test - oh never mind ). They really aren't that hard to work with; look for the breaks and where they "should" go, and use that as a key. Just get some new hose and you are on your way!

Didn't know VA didn't have emissions inspections - most of our counties in NC do, but we have a smog problem.

[Nug]

Hello fellow Richmonder!

 

I was just outside, changing a tire.

[Snowman]

My basic rule of thumb for emissions control devices is to either leave them fully intact or completely remove them. Improperly operating systems can wreak havoc. Basically, leave the EGR system alone, make dead sure that the vacuum line going to the disty advance unit is still intact, check the line that runs from the middle/passenger side of the carb over to the secodary diaphragm on the driver's side, don't touch the PCV system, and don't mess with anything that looks like a fuel line, bowl vent, or anything like that. If you want to strip off the emissions stuff, remove and cap lines one at a time and make sure that there are no adverse effects before moving on to the next line.

[85Sub4WD]

I second Snowman on that. Both our Soobs were carbed from the factory, and I can say from expierence that though the vacuum lines look hard and problematic to put together, but take your time, and you can do it. There are many systems that are not really for emissions, but for performance - like the anti-backfiring valve I just remembered that carbed cars have - you don't want to disconnect that!! The only thing that is REALLY emissions only is the charcoal canister, and removing that would not help with performance.

[Geocritter]

Ok...I'm gonna just leave the vac hoses. I'll replace the bad ones when I get the conversion done and button it back up.

 

Here's a carb question...when I took the choke cover off, the ring with the three screws (used to be riveted) had a bracket on it with a vacuum control that was attached to the choke shaft on the choke cover, like an automatic choke. The assembly came off when I took off the choke cover, so I know it's part of the choke. But...there was also an electric choke. I assumed that both were part of some auto/electrical choke (which I'm replacing) and I get the vacuum off of there to make room for my hand cable.

 

Either I've done the right thing, or I really messed up?

[torxxx]

take off ALL vacumn lines except for the ones running the ERG valve and selinoid, the cabin heater, brake booster. You dont need any other of the vacumn lines if its a carb'd intake and have a manual choke

 

85sub4wd - "like the anti-backfiring valve I just remembered that carbed cars have - you don't want to disconnect that!!" - not true. the air injection system SUCKS. doesnt make a difference if its plugged off.

 

My wagon runs great with a damn near completely stripped carb. All cleaned up, I think it looks better then a SPFI intake manifold, and everything is more accessable

 

And to clean it up a lil more and make more room, get the SPFI air intake part of the system. the airbox and air boot that goes to the injector. it will fit over the mouth of the carb with very minor trimming.

[85Sub4WD]

The "anti-backfire" valve is (or was on my car - pre SPFI) connected to the EGR system, not the ASV (air injection system - or as Subaru calls it Air Suction Valve). I never really messed with it because I was not sure of the consiquences and I figured leaving it as-is would not hurt. I did plug the ASV's when I was working on it because it quieted the engine, but I enjoyed the noise and commotion it created when I reved the engine, so I left it intact as long as it was carbed. (with them plugged it sounded to me like a hyperactive sewing machine) They really don't do squat, but are neat sounding!