4WDFrenzy Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 It has come to my attention that my 88 GL-10 Wagon and I aren't seeing eye to eye anymore. First, my ecu gave up. So Caleb was nice enough to sell me his back-up ecu. Now the car runs ok, but is just becoming too bothersome for me. So, sadly:( I have decided to part ways with it . I'm looking at trying to get between $650-$700 for the whole car. It is in running condition, although the CEL is on. I do have the title for the car and it is free and clear. If anyone is interested, please let me know. Thank You all very much for your time. Sincerely, Patrick Z. *EDIT*: I will sell it with all performance mods still intact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 Don't do it patrick.. I'll get you that MAF out in the mail tomorrow. Been busy and forgot. What other codes you throwing? If its driveable, maybe we can set up a time to meet up so I can help you with it. You have too much work into that thing to throw it away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkiller Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 hey, if ya decide to part it let me know , btw, thanx for the pics of the intake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 26, 2005 Author Share Posted January 26, 2005 Don't do it patrick.. I'll get you that MAF out in the mail tomorrow. Been busy and forgot. What other codes you throwing? If its driveable, maybe we can set up a time to meet up so I can help you with it. You have too much work into that thing to throw it away. Don't sweat it. When it was throwing the code for the MAF, it actually had something to do with the ignition timing. That is fixed, but it has a problemo with high idle now. I have tried a million things to figure it out and the car doesn't want to cooperate. And I have ben working on the stupid thing for the past 4 days and I'm just exhausted. Besides, I need to find some transportation that will be a little more reliable because in about a month I have a nice 19-23hr. trip to North Carolina. Oh, and Thank You again for the ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 26, 2005 Author Share Posted January 26, 2005 hey, if ya decide to part it let me know , btw, thanx for the pics of the intake Doubt I'll part it out, but Thank You for suggesting it anyway. You are very welcome. I hope they weren't too dark or out of focus or whathaveyou. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 26, 2005 Author Share Posted January 26, 2005 What other codes you throwing? It is throwing: Code 34: EGR Solenoid valve- solenoid switch continuously in ON or OFF position Code 35: Purge control solenoid valve- solenoid switch continuously in ON or OFF position Code 42: Idle switch-abnormal idle switch signal in relation to throttle sensor output Code 51: Neutral switch-continuously in ON position These are the codes that it was throwing tonight when I checked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starkiller Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 no, pics were fine...what and how did you cut the opening for the hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 It is throwing: Code 34: EGR Solenoid valve- solenoid switch continuously in ON or OFF position Code 35: Purge control solenoid valve- solenoid switch continuously in ON or OFF position Code 42: Idle switch-abnormal idle switch signal in relation to throttle sensor output Code 51: Neutral switch-continuously in ON position These are the codes that it was throwing tonight when I checked. The first 2 are just the silly little solenoids crapping out. I have 2 good ones I just took off my car. I ditched both the EGR and purge systems. If you want them their yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 I swear '88s suffer from Subaru Middle Child Syndrome. Had many words with mine and almost kicked her to the curb on more than one ocassion. Seen many on here fruastrated with their '88s. Dunno what it is... I just stuck it in the garage, ignore it for a few months, and I always came crawling back :-p Do what you must... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 I think you should keep it, maybe get a dd for cheap so your wagon can afford to be down for a while so there's not so much hassle when things go bad. It sounds like you have a lot of time into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 26, 2005 Author Share Posted January 26, 2005 no, pics were fine...what and how did you cut the opening for the hose? I have an electric angle grinder w/ cut-off wheels that I used to make cut the hole out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 26, 2005 Author Share Posted January 26, 2005 I have an update for everyone. After last nights antics that were performed by the good ol' draggin' wagon, it seems today it decided to turn over a new leaf. I did my usual "go out, start the car and let it warm up" routine this morning, and to my suprise, there was no CEL on and the car started and idled as it used to. It drove just fine, although when I'd come to a stop, the idle dropped from 1000rpms to about 700rpms. I just don't understand it, nor do I think I ever will. This car is driving me nuts!!! I also noticed that my voltage from the alternator fluctuates(I have a handheld alternator and battery tester). Usually when the rpms go up, the voltage goes up accordingly but is then regulated at a safe output by the voltage regulator. Mine doesn't do this at all. I was discussing this earlier with a friend and he and I both think that the alternator is on its way out. This hypothesis was brought about after much collaboration, as he had had a similar problem with an old '87 Accord(Not that I should ever compare a Subaru to a Honda, no bias intended.). So what do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 26, 2005 Author Share Posted January 26, 2005 The first 2 are just the silly little solenoids crapping out. I have 2 good ones I just took off my car. I ditched both the EGR and purge systems. If you want them their yours. How did you bypass it ? Did you just plug the EGR tube off? And also did you CEL come on after you got rid of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 sounds like its a elec/ECU problem, or maybe you should have kicked it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 I have an update for everyone. After last nights antics that were performed by the good ol' draggin' wagon, it seems today it decided to turn over a new leaf. I did my usual "go out, start the car and let it warm up" routine this morning, and to my suprise, there was no CEL on and the car started and idled as it used to. It drove just fine, although when I'd come to a stop, the idle dropped from 1000rpms to about 700rpms. I just don't understand it, nor do I think I ever will. This car is driving me nuts!!! I also noticed that my voltage from the alternator fluctuates(I have a handheld alternator and battery tester). Usually when the rpms go up, the voltage goes up accordingly but is then regulated at a safe output by the voltage regulator. Mine doesn't do this at all. I was discussing this earlier with a friend and he and I both think that the alternator is on its way out. This hypothesis was brought about after much collaboration, as he had had a similar problem with an old '87 Accord(Not that I should ever compare a Subaru to a Honda, no bias intended.). So what do you guys think?One of the problems I had with my '88 GL-10 was the intake manifold gaskets leaked. Have you checked that on yours? I agree with you about the alternator, it does sound like it is in need of attention. Check the voltage on the leads to the alternator. They all should be close to the battery voltage. If they are, I would replace it with a rebuilt by Bosch. If a line is low then you will need to find out what is wrong on that line. I would suspect some of the diodes are shot, very common problem with these. Lastly, if you still have your bad ECU let me know, I may be able to fix it for you. I sure miss my old GL-10. Had it for 12 years and only had about 92k miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 27, 2005 Author Share Posted January 27, 2005 I have officially taken my car off the chopping block. It will live to play another day. After sitting down and cooling off, I have decided to keep my GL-10 after a little encouragement from Caleb and Spencer(the previous owner of my Sube). My confidence in this car has wavered, but is now rock solid. I am going to slowly gather parts to complete my little project over the next 4 years, as I will not be in the States to work on it. But I have major plans for this little turbocar upon my return, that should place it in a more deserving spot in the automotive heirarchy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 27, 2005 Author Share Posted January 27, 2005 UPDATE: It seems that the drama will never end. I went to change the brakes last night and to my suprise, I couldn't get the piston in the driver side caliper to compress. I called in a little help from the previous owner. He and I tried at it for about 15mins to no avail. So we tried putting the old brake pads back in(they still had a little bit of meat on them; at least enough for another month of driving), since they were quite a bit thinner than their brand new counterparts. So we get them in and they won't even clear the rotor. By this time we are looking like this:confused: ,then this:banghead: , and finally this:mad:. So Spencer goes to work on them. After enlisting the help of a prybar, he finally gets the brake pads to clear the rotors and we reinstall the bolts on the caliper. We put the wheel back on and I go to check the E-brake and the handle is down, but the E-brake is engaged on the driver side caliper. By this time it is like 10:40pm and I started this little project at 8:12pm, and as you could imagine, I'm getting really ticked. I look at it and fiddle with it, and then finally decide to consult my manual. It doesn't help at all. So I ask, has anyone else had the emergency brake lock up on them, and if so how did you go about fixing it? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 Its possible you damaged the caliper if you used a prybar to compress them. they don't just push in. They screw in. Theres a little tool that sits in the slots inside the piston to screw them in with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanislru Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 Its possible you damaged the caliper if you used a prybar to compress them. they don't just push in. They screw in. Theres a little tool that sits in the slots inside the piston to screw them in with. I think you're right, I forced a piston back in on a rear caliper instead of twisting and it was screwed. The brake stayed fully locked as soon as I depressed the pedal after I re-installed it. I should have read a bit more about the brakes first:drunk:. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 28, 2005 Author Share Posted January 28, 2005 UPDATE: It is Fixed!!! The caliper problem is finally fixed thanks to GOD, my trusty hammer, and two of my friends, Jason and John. I gave the E-brake actuator arm(for lack of the proper term) a couple of love taps and much to my suprise, I was able to screw the piston back in. Oh yeah, and I had to buy a brake pad spreader from Autozone. But it worked. Now I have the confidence of having new brakes up front(haven't changed the rears yet), which should hopefully help shorten my stopping distance as the old pads were about as glazed as a box of Krispie Kreme doughnuts. We roughed up the surface of the rotors with some good old sandpaper, slapped the new pads in, bolted everything back together, and called it a day. Now I just have to finish putting the stupid quick boot on the cv axle and the thing is good to roll again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4WDFrenzy Posted January 31, 2005 Author Share Posted January 31, 2005 UPDATE: Well, I got the stupid clamps on the new boot saturday night. The wife and I took the car out yesterday(had to stretch its legs cause we been driving the heck out of the WRX). It seemed to be okay until after we had stopped at a store that is about 3-4 miles from our house. When we came out and I started it up and turned the lights on, the rpms dropped. So I got a little peaved and took the car down this road that runs outside of the base and romped on it. Immediatly, the car had a totally different personality. The thing squalled the tires while accellerating, when I downshifted into second @ 40mph after some bunghole tried to cut me off. I don't understand it. One minute it runs great, the next it wants to take a dirt nap, but yesterday was definately a good day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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