Flowmastered87GL Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Well I got the new clutch in my brat, its STILL SLIPPING! We are down to 1 of 2 things being the problem: A: The throw out bearing is not properly pressed on its carrier. B: The shift linkage needs to be adjusted and while I think I am in gear, I really am not. So, with an 82 BRAT, should I have to adjust the shifter linkage at all? I am pretty darn sure I am able to get in all the gears and the car does move with the clutch off, just VERY slowly (like I could push it faster) I am guessing its the carrier, but want input from the experts here regarding the linkages (mudrat, ken, eric...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 with the 3/3 lift, you don't need to adjust the linkages.... did the brat move okay before the clutch swap/lift was done? so can you smell the clutch burning then? are you torquing down the PP bolts before installing the engine, or are you torquing them through the starter hole? did you replace the clutch cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 5, 2005 Author Share Posted February 5, 2005 -did the brat move okay before the clutch swap/lift was done? Yes, but I lifted and did the clutch swap at the same time, that includes the TO bearing... I held the bearings next to each other but dont remember how the first one was seated on the carrier. -so can you smell the clutch burning then? No clutch burning. I yanked the old 83-84 style clutch out and showed it to richie, looked brand new, no burning or wear -are you torquing down the PP bolts before installing the engine, or are you torquing them through the starter hole? I am torqueing them before installing the engine. Is the EA81 supposed to be through the hole? I torqued them maybe to like 15-20 ft lbs since they are pretty small bolts. Snug, but not gorilla tight. -did you replace the clutch cable? No, I took it off and the car still doesnt move! It should technically lurch forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P K Posted February 5, 2005 Share Posted February 5, 2005 You probably have the wrong clutch set. For my 1982 Brat, I bought one from Kragen (clutch, presss plate, TO bearing all in kit), and when I put it in, the pressure plate didn't even have pressure bolting in. It's supposed to be tight with the clutch disc against the flywheel... but the clutch just hung loose in between the PP and FW (hard to explain, sorry). Anyway, took back the whole kit and got another from pep boys, and the pressure plate was different (the surface plate was more offset outward), and it was TIGHT when bolting down (spring pressure) against the clutch. Take your original PP and compare to the new one, and see the different offset of the plate surface with respect to its mount housing. You will see. Good luck. R/ PK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted February 5, 2005 Share Posted February 5, 2005 that sounds like the exact problem there PK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 6, 2005 Author Share Posted February 6, 2005 Uhhh the old kit is long gone ( threw it out cause I heard they were junk and had all the parts to install the new bigger clutch) On both the new 82 kit and the new 83+ kit I bolted the unit together and tried to spin the alignment tool in it, and it wouldnt spin. But I dunno maybe it was just barely holding it :-\ I just find it odd that BOTH the setup from the big clutch and the small clutch are not working. Seems one of them should work. Hey mick get a pic of how the carrier and bearing are supposed to sit on each other yet? I am half tempted to clear a big path out in front of the car, yank the coil wire (just to be safe) put the car in gear and start it after removing the TO bearing and carrier. If it still slips without that unit in there then I know its a clutch issue. If it grabs then I know the TO bearing is at fault. Dont know what else to try, but a pic of how the clutch side is (or a description) would really help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Uhhh the old kit is long gone ( threw it out cause I heard they were junk and had all the parts to install the new bigger clutch) On both the new 82 kit and the new 83+ kit I bolted the unit together and tried to spin the alignment tool in it, and it wouldnt spin. But I dunno maybe it was just barely holding it :-\ I just find it odd that BOTH the setup from the big clutch and the small clutch are not working. Seems one of them should work. Hey mick get a pic of how the carrier and bearing are supposed to sit on each other yet? I am half tempted to clear a big path out in front of the car, yank the coil wire (just to be safe) put the car in gear and start it after removing the TO bearing and carrier. If it still slips without that unit in there then I know its a clutch issue. If it grabs then I know the TO bearing is at fault. Dont know what else to try, but a pic of how the clutch side is (or a description) would really help pics are on your thread in the Retrofitting section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richierich Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Mike threw away the original flywheel, disc, and pressure plate when he moved. I found another flywheel, and ordered a disc, pressure plated, TO bearing and pilot bearing to match. It fit with the flywheel, but I don't think we bolted it down to check. I don't know if Mike checked that after he installed it on the car. This is the same exact problem he was having when he used the 83-84 Clutch set-up. BUT he used the 82 TO bearing and the only conclusion is that it did not mate up, though the pressure plate saw no signs of wear on the fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 6, 2005 Author Share Posted February 6, 2005 Mick, saw your pic in the other thread, thanks! I think tomorrow I am gonna take afew hours and yank the engine again and see if removing the TO bearing will make it lurch. Its the only way to single out if its the clutch or the TO bearing causing the problem. At this point I dont know which to root for. (probably something like just needing the TO bearing pressed on further would be easiest) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P K Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 On mine the pressure plates were different. On the bad new one, it aligned right up and bolted in no problem - also with no pressure on the pressure plate fingers/springs (preload). When you bolt the correct pressure plate in with the clutch aligned, they should meet with maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch (more?) still to bolt in rotation until it pulls the pressure plate housing against the flywheel - effectively loading the pressure plate against the clutch against the flywheel. When putting the engine to trans, I did not encounter any resistance - it mated right up. If the throwout bearing was incorrect - meaning enough to disable the clutch as sympton, it would press againt the pressure plate with resistance when mating the engine and trans. If the clutch pedal movement feels normal, then I would still bet on the pressure plate or flywheel being incorrect. Best luck, PK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 6, 2005 Author Share Posted February 6, 2005 Yes I have resistance the last 1/4 inch or so when I try to press the engine on! So either the bearing is wrong maybe of the setup is too thick... maybe my car is designed for some REALLY rare setup... I dunno. I will report back tomorrow hopefully with what yanking the TO bearing assy. does for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Yes I have resistance the last 1/4 inch or so when I try to press the engine on! So either the bearing is wrong maybe of the setup is too thick... maybe my car is designed for some REALLY rare setup... I dunno. I will report back tomorrow hopefully with what yanking the TO bearing assy. does for it. you shouldn't have any resistance... leave the PP bolts loose so that the disc can slide without much effort. I'm much happier now doing it this way..... if everything is lined up properly, it should slide tight together without any resistance.... you may alos need to take a small pointy edge file, and smooth out the splines on the clutch disc. I had trouble one time, and I messed up the edge of the splines.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted February 6, 2005 Author Share Posted February 6, 2005 Regarding the edges of the clutch... if the edges ARE pointy maybe they just need to break in before it gets full contact? This is a Peraut clutch kit I think... all the other ones I have had have been perfect right out of the box (well other than the 83+ style one) I am just about to go out and try yanking the TO bearing to see what happens... still dont know what to hope for, but we shall see what it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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