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Factory tool required to replace front oil seals?


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Newbie here on the forum with a question on replacing the front oil seals (crank/cam/oil pump), timing belt, and water pump on my 98 OB wagon. I want to be sure I have all the necessary tools before I tackle the job.

 

The docs I have read on replacing the seals call for the subaru factory tool for replacement. Is it possible to use a deep socket? If so, what size socket should I use? Any other tools that will work?

 

Thanks

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I just replaced cam and crank seals, and used some PVC plumbing pieces I had left over from installing a new kitchen sink to drive them in. I worked slowly, tapping them in squarely.

 

 

If I had large diameter sockets, that would have been easier, and probably quicker and more professional-like, but what can I say?

 

The junk plumbing pieces were way cheaper than me buying a new 3/4 drive socket set, although I have had my eye on this certain set for a while... Perhaps my wife wouldn't mind me spending a few extra bucks if it would help decrease our repair costs in the long run...

 

Matt

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just finished the job. I did the front crank seal, water pump, oil pump o ring, and timing belt. took a little longer than I expected. But after all the posts I read about this repair in this forum I was well prepared.

 

I ran into trouble in two spots. First getting the crankshaft pulley off. I tried first with a strap wrench. I think this might have worked if I had help, but doing this alone I needed something that let me have both hands free to wrench on the pulley bolt. I ended up buying a vice-grip chain wrench. Worked like a charm. The chain wrench did do some minor damage to the pulley, but I was fix it with small file. When I put the pulley back on, I put a piece of old drive belt down first to protect the pulley...worked like a charm.

 

Since I took off the oil pump, installing the crank gasket was a piece of cake. However, if you install without taking off the oil pump it looks like you will need a 1 5/16" socket to tap it in. I decided not to do the cam gaskets as they looked fine...I'll save those for next time.

 

Second place I had issues was trying to get the water pump gasket on properly. Before you start this try to get the gasket as flat as possible. I also put sealer on both the pump and the block to hold the gasket in place.

 

Overall I would say this is a challenging repair, but certainly possible with the right tools and a little bit of time.

 

Thanks for all of your help!!!!

 

 

I just replaced cam and crank seals, and used some PVC plumbing pieces I had left over from installing a new kitchen sink to drive them in. I worked slowly, tapping them in squarely.

 

 

If I had large diameter sockets, that would have been easier, and probably quicker and more professional-like, but what can I say?

 

The junk plumbing pieces were way cheaper than me buying a new 3/4 drive socket set, although I have had my eye on this certain set for a while... Perhaps my wife wouldn't mind me spending a few extra bucks if it would help decrease our repair costs in the long run...

 

Matt

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That's great sussman. Did you pull the fans and/or the radiator to give more space to work in?

 

Yep. There are maybe 8 small screws holding the fans and radiator in. Since I replaced the water pump I had to drain everything anyway. It is much easier to operate will all that stuff out of the way. I also took off the air filter housing...made easier to access the #1 cylindere.

 

One thing my manual called for was draining the engine with two drain plugs close to the oil pan. Instead I just pulled off the radiator hose from the thermostat housing. That did the trick...and I didn't have an allen wrench big enough to open the plugs.

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