Some EA82 engine specific questions (heads & such)

[Syonyk]

So... working on my engine, discovered a few things, and have some questions. I figured I'd lump them all in one thread.

 

1. In the process of changing the spark plugs, I discovered that the passenger's side front plug was only in halfway... because the threads were shot. It looks like I'd have to pull the head and reverse tap it to fix it, if it's fixable at all. How much does a used head typically run, and is it something I'd have to pull the engine out of the car to replace?

 

2. What exactly do ticking lash adjusters sound like? My engine has a pretty loud tick coming from it... much louder than the quiet tapping I hear from other older engines. It changes volume randomly, and is pretty constant (doesn't come and go with load or RPM), so I'm pretty sure it's not bearings.

 

3. Which way do you rotate the distributor to advance the timing? I'm sure I could figure it out, but I have a thread going...

 

4. Is there any harm to leaving the timing belt covers off? I recall reading in an offroad post about some people leaving their belt covers off and not having any problems. It would be theoretically more susceptible to road debris and such, but in reality is that a problem?

 

5. How long does it take to pull the engine out? SPFI, power steering, no AC. I'm thinking it might be quicker to pull the engine, do all the soft seals, timing belts, head, etc.

 

6. Where is the fuel filter located on a 1988 DL Wagon?

 

Thanks! Sorry for so many threads with lots of questions, I'm still learning much about the art of working on piston engines.

 

-=Russ=-

[GLCraig]

1. with the right tools, you should be able to install a Heli coil into the sparkplug whole, for the repair. If you do need to remove the head, it can be done without pulling the engine.

 

2. that's what they sound like

 

3. I can't remember.

 

4. the only danger to them or you is that they are exposed, be careful around them when the covers are off and the engine is running.

 

5. it depends on what you have for tools

 

6. since you have fuel injection, the filter is located in the engine compartment.

[MilesFox]

1. if you have to pull a head take the motor out, as its less fristrating and actually faster to take the motor out than to headache yourself with the motor in the car. however a headmay ost depends on your method of getting one. i have them falling out of my rump roast, so if i need one i hit up my stash. if you know others with soobs, and have a decent stash, you can trade for one. i couldnt tell you how much one woule be at a parts store, if they even have them. your best bet would be to hit the junkyard, one that doesnt itemize a price for every little thing, go somewhere you can haggle and put cash on the table before you get yout part. as far as the yard its not necessary to pull the motor to get the heads, bring an assortment of 17mm tools to get the head off, so your tools wont run into the valve springs tying to loosen them

 

2. sounds like lifter noise. no worry its nothing the car will up and fail over. bottom end noises will come and go according to load one ay or the other. try replacing the oil pump seals

 

3. turn it to the right to advance, as the rotor goes counter clockwise. all the way is about 20-25 deg, i like to run spfi at about 22 deg

 

4. i invented open belts. trust me the speculative rock or depbris issue is very unlikely to happen. i ran out wst on mix and match used belts, no problem. went baja'n no problem. put the motro in another car ad drove daily, went baja'n through weeds taller than the car, mud, gravel, you name it, no problem. then i let my buddy drive and the car quit, would you know the only reported belt failure from open belts was due to a loose rag under the hood. ixed it in 10 minutes. i always preach open belts because hey, if you break a belt you can fix it in 10 min with a ratche and 2 sockets, thats all. and if you ever have to change a seal, water pump, or service th eoil pump it saves you a LOT of time by not having to take abunch of crap off the motor. leave the one piee of plastic behind the idler pulley ias it is the only section of belt that would otherwise be exposed from the back side. cut of the part that overlaps the oil pump sp you can remove it without having to take that one piece off

 

5. if you know what right to do an engine can be pulled in under an hour. for spfi get under the car first and drop the exhaust, unbolt the motor mounts, and drain any coolant at the radiator and the plugs on the heads. then go up top and remove the gound wire from the water pipe, undo the spfi harness, the disyt wie, and the throttle cable. the pull the heater hoses from the motor end. then remove the clutch fan, undo the lower radiator hose form the motor end, and the upper from the radiator end. you can leave the electric fan on the rad if you get the right angle to pull the radiator. it will be tigh t around the ps lines, yuk the upper hose behind the oil fill tube. disconnect the fuel lines , then the bellhousing bolts an you are good to go. leave the starter in and the battery cables connected to it. the groud cable fits on a bracket that has the top bolt go throug it, so dont forget it when you put the motor back in. oh yeah, take out the pitch bar

 

6. the fuel filter for spfi is under the hood near the strut tower, big canister looking thing. it should be there stock, if not it has been removed. when going back together the fuel line off the filter connects to the BOTTOM fitting on the throttle body

[Syonyk]

Thanks! That pretty much covers it...

 

How would I do a helicoil with the head in the car? It looks like I'd be dropping all sorts of debris into the cylinder.

 

I'm thinking I may just take a Saturday, rent an engine lift, and make a day project of it.

 

-=Rsss=-

[MilesFox]

blow it out with compressed air