Maybe buying 89 GL Wagon

[SilverSubie]

Just looking for some tips. Anything particular that I need to look at?

 

I looked the car over today, and took it for a short test drive. All the door seals pretty nuch need to be replaced. Oil looks to be water/coolant free. Coolant look dirty, but no oil. The car has been kept in pretty good shape. New alternator, brakes are good, exhaust looked newer. Interior is OK

 

The bad:

 

Current owner hit a hitch, and pushed in front bumper, bending in the A/C radiator. I tried the A/C, but the compressor didn't start.

 

Torn inboard passenger side front boot. How easy is it to replace?

 

Third gear is "grouchy" Looks like the syncro is going. If I waited a second before shifing, it went right in, otherwise, it would grind into gear. Is this something that will fail tommorrow or could be OK for awhile?

 

Thanks,

Tom

[85Sub4WD]

Third gear is "grouchy" Looks like the syncro is going. If I waited a second before shifing, it went right in, otherwise, it would grind into gear. Is this something that will fail tommorrow or could be OK for awhile?

 

Older Soobs are known to have tempermental, but reliable transmissions. Unless you see metal shards in the oil, don't sweat.

 

Changing to synthetic oil helps.

[ShawnW]

Depending on cost that could be okay but sounds like youre going to be spending some money and the car is only worth between 1400 and 2000 dollars at the most (in good condition) I would say.

[thealleyboy]

SS:

 

The 89 EA82 models, in any trim line, are the cream of the crop as far as these cars go. They were well-equipped, and the mechanicals had been perfected by that year.

 

The problems you mention shouldn't kill the deal if the price is right.

 

A minor ("high hit") front end collision should pull out fairly easily, and a condensor is a simple bolt-on replacement. Don't assume that the collision is what's preventing your A/C compressor from cycling on. There are many possible causes.

If you want to drive a Sube, better learn how to do these axles. No biggie in terms of expense if you buy a used axle and do the work yourself.

The sticky gear may work itself out over time. I jammed mine up braking in gear, and it did the same thing you describe for a while. Eventually, it smoothed out. I would say that if the gear is holding, your tranny is ok.

Again, 89 is a good year, so don't let the problems scare you off.

 

good luck, John

[SilverSubie]

Thanks everyone! Yeah, the price is really good. I am moving forward with having the car checked out by the shop that has maintained it for a few years. At the bare minimum, I will be able to see the records.

[MilesFox]

try dopuble clutching or rpm matching when you shift, as this will halp the gear go in

 

the inner end of the axle is rebuildable, you can service it without having to press the axle out of the knuckle, if you pop the ball joint or unbolt the lower control arm. there is a roll pin that holds the inner side onto the tranny, 3/16" drift punch, the holes align one way so dont be 180 off. insert the punch before you drive the oin to make sure its aligned

 

ask to know when the timing belts were last serviced. a timing belt faulure is really the only thing that will leave you stranded, bot nothing is damaged if this were to occur. the timing belts should be replaced every 60,000 miles, so if yyou dont know may as well replace them. and as far as the motor comes apart to do the timing belts, it would be a good time to inspect or replace the engine seals, water pump while its apart. do all this and the motor will be good for another long while before you have to worry about it, so long as the cooling system is in good working order to prevent over heating and head gasket faulure