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webers are pain


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also the bracketry for the choke actuation on jims carb is missing, there are 2 holes on the throttle bracket that looks to take screws for additional linkage

 

does anyone have a picture of the choke mechanismes how it is supposed to be for front mounted, throttle on the passenger side, electric choke pull off

 

looks as if the linkages were removed to clear the distrubutor. any pics would help as i could make something for jim if have an idea of what its supposed to look like

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What's this? This is the first anti-weber talk I've heard. Of course I am totally wet behind the ears. Is there widespread agreement about this? I was advised quite strongly to get rid of my undersized Carter-Weber and get a Weber. My whole reason for beginning this search was a no start condition. The last thing I want is a hard starting carb.

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i've not had any problems with my weber when starting, had it for a year, much better than the hitachi, which had a tempermental choke. the weber runs WAY smoother too. maybe something is wrong here. really my weber fires up every time, no problems. i have heard they are prone to icing though i've never experienced it.

 

worth it? good god yes.

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What is "properly adjusted?"

Mine is new from carbs unlimited and still runs funky. Starts every time including after sitting in 10f temps.

I seem to try a new adjustments every couple weeks, each seem to have their +'s and -'s. I would seem low on power and so i richened it up a little, more top end but would die when ever i came to a stop after getting off the freeway. Lean it out, i would get less mpg's but wouldnt die. I am just trying to find a happy medium.

Also twice when returning from the mountians i have had it all of a sudden loose a lot of power, had to keep it floored to keep moving in 4th gear. It would die when ever i came to a stop and then it would be fine when i restarted. Almost seemed that the first barrel was not open and i had to get into the 2nd to get any power.

I am going to find a good carb guy to take a look at it and see what he says.

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Usually I and another person (helps to have a second ear) adjust the mix screw til it sounds decent.

 

Then adjust the idle til its where I want. Mine is like 800 RPM idle warm, like 600 cold... so sometimes it stalls on a cold morning, but not often. If I push the gas once and ONLY once, it will idle at 1500 cold like it should, but its harder to start that way so I just deal with the 600 or so cold RPM's for the first few blocks.

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manuel chokes suck i wouldnt even bother with it, great for startup but once it is warm its a pita if u get on the gas at all because u gotta keep messing with it all the time i personally would rather run with no choke at all than a manuel choke

 

I learned to drive with vehicles that were manual choke, as I'm sure there are other members here that did as well. It just takes a little bit of finesse with choke position/engine speed is all. Very doable on a Manual tranny, but it truly sucks on an Auto tranny. I've converted many a car to manual choke vs auto choke, just 'cause choke system was FUBAR.

 

Jim,

I will get out to the garage and see if I can tell what/where that loose linkage arm goes to. Will be in the AM though. Send you email on findings.

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something to keep in mind also, is tht they will run crappier with bad mpg if the disty vac advance is bad....

 

I put the old MityVac on the disty this morning, and no vac at all. wasn't even a slow leak. wouldn't hold anything...

 

luckily I had a new one handy, so I replaced mine this morning and everything is running much smoother...

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