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front mount intercooler progress. I/C piping.(DUW)


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I've looked for the 1 3/4" to 2 3/8" 90* ebow transition in a few places and most everything starts at two inches. More research is required.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing how this will turn out too.

 

A bit worried about connecting the intercooler piping to the engine without the hump hoses to account for engine deflection.

I'm going to mount the piping to the frame farther away from the engine connections to hopefully alllow for small movement. Haven't seen alot of engine movement, but I know it's there.

 

WJM, your thinking of mounting an intercooler UNDER the bumper?

Narrower intercooler? Almost all of the face of the Starion intercooler is in the grill/airflow. Just a small percentage is actually blocked by the bumper. I don't want to hack on the bumper this early in the build.

 

I am thinking I can build a small scoop under the bumper to get air into the bottom 1" of the intercooler. Don't want to block too much airflow to the radiator. If cooling is an issue, I'll put two high flow fans on the radiator.

 

regards,

 

Jay

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you could try this take two peices of flat plate, and a peice of flat stock and cut the sides and bottom out of what you made already. and weld them on there. do you understand what I just wrote, cause I'm not sure I do. :) but I'll try to explain it further if you don't get what I'm saying

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I was going to make these complicated flat stock/pencil steel mounts.

 

Decided the KISS method was better.

Just used pencil steel and rubber isolators in the I/C itself.

 

23mounting_brackets_for_Intercooler_002.jpg

One row of cooling fins are behind the bumper.

 

Jay

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not to out do you or anything ..

but your hood pins give me a idea..

that i think i will try and adapt this ol saab 9000 radiator and bigazz fmic into the wagon ....

oddd.. i forgot all about useing hood pins for so long.. so now i can contemplate cutting the hell out of my front radiator/hood latch thing w00t

 

 

ps...

thats some dam good work there

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Thanks for the compliment. I'd like to get some constructive feedback or even negative feedback from the board on how this is turning out. I'm not too proud to take someone elses ideas.(Grill..cough..cough..)

 

I looked at a Jeep Grand Cherokee and the way the hood latch system works. Latches on the sides, not the center. I'm still trying to get away from the hood pins. Easy but too obvious.

 

Jay

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\ I'd like to get some constructive feedback or even negative feedback from the board on how this is turning out.

 

Only thing I see that I would be concerned about is the 90 going into the TB.. not detrimental though.

 

That IC looks great. You are an absolute pimp and have inspired a number of ideas for me.

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I think the hood pins are awesome.

 

I put them on my car out of choice...You'd be surprised at how little the hood moves around with them on.

 

And it's super quick and easy to get into the engine bay.

 

The IC looks awesome....but mounting it was the easy part. the plumbing will no doubt be a ***************

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I can't load another picture into my Gallery until tomorrow. So attached.

 

Turbo side is fleshed in. Still have to make it pretty as far as the welds and tabs for the piping.

This was the relatively easy side.

 

Jay

post-23-136027599692_thumb.jpg

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Calebz, Going to have another go at the intake flange and see if I can rebuild another to flow a bit better. PITA is what it is. Yeah I could buy it, but I want to try to make it.

 

 

Sidewayz, I'm thinking hard on the hoodpins, If I can't find an alternative fairly quickly, I'm going to mount them up. I have an extra hood to try it out on first.

 

Still trying not to draw any attention to the car visually. No immature, gaudy, ricey stickers, nothing like that for me. If it was a full time, no street, race cars of some kind I could see it. TEHO though.

 

 

 

will, Look at these engines closely when they are gagged hard with the throttle.

 

Not much movement there. Some, but not much. I'm not running a full-on, short life, race engine either.

 

I replaced the motor mounts with new OEM when I rebuilt the engine.

All components are mounted in 1/4" rubber isolators on both sides of the mounting brackets. That's 1/2" of play for everything hooked to the engine.

 

Going to trim the piping away from the intercooler another 3/8"s to allow for movement in those junctions with 3" of silicone hose spanning the gap.

 

Good thought. And your suggestions for accounting for engine travel under load would be what? Hump hoses? As the previous posts states, I welcome input, good or bad from anyone who wishes to give it.

 

Thanks for the responses all.

 

Regards,

Jay

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Hump hoses and rubber mounts should cover any movement.

 

 

these engines move alot during launches. ;)

 

Group N mounts would fix that....but the tranny ones are entirely different...and the engine ones need to be modded some to fit.

 

Otherwise...im really just sitting back and watching how things develop.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Little more.

 

23to_plenum_side_from_Intercooler_006.jpg

 

Roughed in.

 

Thinking about painting the piping black or blue. Hmm. Think the piping would get to hot to safely use some type of filler to smooth it a bit before paint?

 

Still haven't found any usable Jeep hoodlatches. The hoodpins are mocking me.

 

Jay

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I will be modifying the grill. Someone cut and fiberglassed a grill here recently. can't recall who it was, but I thought it looked good.

Jay

 

I cut my grill (well, got another from the junkyard to cut) and it wasnt hard at all. If you have a dremel, get a couple cutting disks and find a router bit. THe router bit goes right through the plastic and makes it very easy to carv your way through the grill.

 

I used bondo to fill gaps and create the look i was after. I was later told about fiberglass and would recommend that over the bondo.

 

Your IC install is looking very good. I would suggest getting some 2.37" mandrel tube for your throttlebody, connect that to your intercooler pipe with a silicone reducer (much cheaper than silicone bends) or goto home depot and get a rubber reducer. I bought my reducer, it goes from 2 3/8" (2.37") to 1 7/8", and it was about $3.

 

-Brian

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yeah, get that mandrel bend for the TB peice.

 

looks great! You could probly use some filler on the pipes....it doent get THAT hot really....I woudl think it only get to about 190 on the outside....but then again, paint might act as an insulator on the turbo to IC side...and you dont really want that....but you would on the IC-intake side to keep heat out.

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GravelRX, that install looks awesome! It seems as if everything is coming together nicely.

 

Will is right about the paint. It will act as an insulator to the heat, keeping it inside the pipe. If you want to keep the IC to TB side cooler, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy a roll of aluminized insulation( it looks like aluminized bubble wrap). I have this on my intercooler piping and it works exceptionally well by helping to keep the pipe carrying the cool air from geting heat soaked. It also works well on the intake piping to the turbo. The cooler the air starts out, the cooler and more dense the air charge will be once it gets compressed and sent through the intercooler to the engine; i.e., yeilding better conditions for making good horsepower.

 

Patrick

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Drove it around today without a hood. Finished the piping and most of the plumbing with exception of the IAC into the plenum. (more welding) I'm thinking I can get my exhaust guy to bend a 90* and expand it to 2 3/8" on one end for the next plenum attempt and I'll do a small hard line for the AIC when I weld it all together.

High heat gloss black engine enamel with high heat primer underneath. A bit of bondo to smooth it up. Turbo side is warm(hands on for 4-5 seconds) to the touch after 20 minutes of driving. Cool after the I/C.:)

 

From the front with no hood or grill.

23finished_piping_and_IC_installed_031.jpg

 

Would like to get better clamps although these seem to be doing the job. Was going to weld a bead to make sure the hoses don't pop off but I will procrastinate that until it happens. I doubt I'll run more than 12 lbs..

 

 

23finished_piping_and_IC_installed_024.jpg

 

Cleaned the holes up with tubing and adhesive.

23finished_piping_and_IC_installed_006.jpg

 

23finished_piping_and_IC_installed_033.jpg

 

Runs well. Still running stock boost. Clearances are close, but no rattles. The piping doesn't touch anything except the silicone hoses.

 

I've done a few hard launches and can see everything with the hood off.

Engine doesn't seem to move enough to effect the piping clearances.

 

Now the hood pins are mocking me. It's time.

 

Jay

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