ballitch Posted February 18, 2005 Share Posted February 18, 2005 sounds like a typical swap related problem, got the wiring in and motor sensors all hooked up and all the ground and power wires that i saved from the harness put in their places, havent got the tach wire hooked up yet, got gas in gas tank and fuel pump wired in to the ignition system, works very well btw. plugs seem to be fine, no clue on the plug wires though. the oxygen sensor is plumbed in and hooked up, come on austin hook a brother up with some advice, the motor i put in probably hasnt run in like 8 months or so im guessing. got the 2 ecu always hot wires wired in and fused with their proper amperage fuses, yes the thought of me having done the wiring wrong has crossed my mind every 5 seconds for the past 3 hours. tried the starting fluid trick, didnt work as you can obviously tell, my dad says it sounds like it wants to start but he thinks the battery isnt fully charged enough to crank it over, the battery was dead when i started wrenching on the car today, i think its the same problem John has with the BEAST. i dont know whats wrong, someone please advise, i am stuck. HELP!!!!!!!!!!! ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 18, 2005 Share Posted February 18, 2005 try charging the battery first.. then crank it a little. the fuel circuit might not be fully pressurized yet. don't forget to check for codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 19, 2005 Author Share Posted February 19, 2005 alrighty, ecu is from a 1991 legacy 5MT, saved the wires for the CEL, question, does the ecu have a light inside the ecu box, or is it dash related, like the instrument panel kinda thing. if it on the I/P ima have to dig threw the wires harnes and find the I/P wires ............great.......... ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 19, 2005 Author Share Posted February 19, 2005 and oh ya, i dont have the I/P, just have the wires for it lol. not liking what your going to say i just know it. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 I know the 90, and I'm pretty sure the 91 legacy ECU's have a little green LED inside the ECU that can be seen through a hole in the case that will blink intermittantly based on the O2 sensor signal. However if you hook up the diagnostic connectors, it will flash the codes displayed in memory, if there's any there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 19, 2005 Author Share Posted February 19, 2005 god i love you guys.................no not that way sicko's. I so hope that is true Legacy777. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nug Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 So the fuel pump comes on when you turn on the key, and stays on while cranking, right? And it has spark? Are your injectors firing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 19, 2005 Author Share Posted February 19, 2005 ya fuel is not an issue as long as there is enough pressure, i dont have a fuel pres. gauge on it but i hooked it up right, had + and - on the pump, wired it to the run position in the ign, do i have to somehow bleed the injectors? i dont know if i have spark, sometimes it sounds like it wants to turn over, my dad thinks that my partially charged battery doesnt have enough power to power the injecton and stuff. i have a good battery, just wasnt charged fully, ima try charging it fully and switching ignitor modules. i am confident i did the wiring write, but you know good ole' Murphy. with fuel injection i know its simple, make sure you have fuel, spark, and you did the wiring right and have everything grounded and powered that needs to be grounded and powered and it SHOULD start. i knew i would have to do some troubleshooting. for those that have helped me so far, you are the stinky-ca-ca. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 20, 2005 Author Share Posted February 20, 2005 okay.......it runs............just need to wire up harness to a switched source, it still runs when i turn key off, it was the ignitor, bought a used one from PAP and it fired right up. oil sender is not working, think i connected wrong wire form EA82 motor, wouldnt surprise me. clutch needs adjustment, and slips alot right now, takes off like a bat outta hell though man, jees that thing takes off, left 45 foot long gravel/slightly muddy burnout, both right tires, need to hook up tach wire, does anyone know what pin out is the tach on the 1991 5mt ECU? on other models it is pin C16, on this ecu pin C16 goes to the instrument panel.......so ........im guessing it is the same. anyone know how to burp the cooling system to get all the air out of it, like exactly how, tried jacking it up when i put coolant in it, got a gallon of coolant in it, now i pour like an 1/8 cup of coolant in it and it comes to the top of the rad cap, then slightly burps and goes down. i did the wiring right after all. so proud of that. now time to get tags and registration for it and switch insurance. it is a beautiful day. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 You probably do have the right wire hooked to the oil sender but the on an EJ22 is just a switch to turn on a dummy light when the pressure drops. Burping the cooling system can be tricky, a lot of people will back fill the engine through the upper hose since the thermostat is where the lower hose hooks up. Also the Legacy and Impreza radiators have a plug in the top to vent air when filling the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 20, 2005 Author Share Posted February 20, 2005 now the only question is is why cant i find the tach output signal from the ecu and how the heck do i post pics? awesome project number 1 is done, just need to prove it to you guys. any info is cool peeps. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 good work. i think you can maybe switch the oil pressure sender out to get one that works with your dash, maybe an original EA82 sender. I'm going to toss my digidash and put in an analog while i've got the dash torn out (also need to change headlight switch and heater switches, and i think the heater core will get changed too, why not?) i'm making my adapter this week... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 21, 2005 Author Share Posted February 21, 2005 it turns out that i indeed had the wrong wire hooked up to the sender, i made a "Y" out of electrical connectors to send one signal to ecu and other to my stock gauge, works good, like 25 psi at idle fully warmed up, motor runs great, clutch slips like crazy with lots of gas, should have definately taken John's advice and gotten the XT6 pressure plate, you know what they say, hindsight is always 20/20. which brings me to my next question, is there any other pressure plates, aftermarket or current use in production that have the same bolt pattern as the EA82's? while rumaging through the PAP i saw a legacy Pres. plate, they look alot alike. i know the legacy clutches are about the same diameter, just wondering, need more clamping force, clutch is a year old with like 10k on it so no big deal there. any help is appreciated. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Do you have the legacy radiator? If so, there should be a burp screw on the top pass. side. If not......elevate the front end and see if that get's all the air out. Tach output wire is B56 pin 16. That lead actually goes to the TCU normally. The tach signal is sent via another pinout to the combination unit. I'm not sure which pin it is. but the B56 pin 16 should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilfflip Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 when you are burping the coolanst system just start the car let it get up to operating temp, open the radiator cap carefully and go at it. Fill it to the brim, wait for it to burp down a little and fill it some more. A very tedious process and a little time consuming but if you don't you'll hit spots when your cars temp will rise and fall whenever it hits an air bubble in they system. That's what happened to my Legacy when I got it up and running after it's accident. ~Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nug Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 http://www.paeco.com has clutches. You will have a heart attack when you figure out how much they are, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 27, 2005 Author Share Posted February 27, 2005 well...... in all my glory it DID run. first of all, the ignitor i had i thought didnt work, i had it upside down. i know what youre thinking, this guy can tear apart a whole wire harness from a car and transplant it into another car and the dumb*** puts the ignitor backwards...... anyway, it did run, ran fine, only problem is, it doesnt now, it stopped running while i was burping the coolant system. right before my ears. i checked the fuses, like 5 times, fusible links, the grounds, the powers for the harness, i ckecked the ignitor, the the power TR unit thingy that is hooked up to the ignitor, the alternator i am pretty sure is ok, i am charging the battery back to full so i can try to start it, it sounds like it isnt getting any spark......kinda like when i had the ignitor backwards........the weird thing is it just stopped, the fuel pump was working great and was still running after the motor died. it just plain stopped working, ima try pulling the battery cables and seeing if the ecu went into ultra-hyper-oh-my-god-check-engine-mode.......the kind where it says ......oh no im not going to run until you fix my stuff buddy. one thing.............there is a little sensor or something on the 1 and 3 cylinder side of the intake manifold, it has two vacuum lines going to or from it, one goes directly behind the throttle body and the other ties into the lower part of intake manifold, i think it is called the IAC valve, idle air control or something like that, it was clicking after i tried to restart the motor after it shut down, it would "click" in a pattern, 2 clicks just about 3/4 quarters or one full second after the other, very consistently, maybe its a clue, i dont know the coil from which the harness gets power i think is ok, ran harness power straight from battery, did nothing. im stuck, and need to get the damn thing running because i took insurance off my 98 legacy when this thing WAS running to save some dough, but my success it seems was short lived. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 28, 2005 Author Share Posted February 28, 2005 well the ecu is now off the list, i works just fine, put it in the 1990 wagon and she fired right up....................what the heck is wrong with this thing............it was running great.............then nothing................battery is fully charged, still nothing, no fuses blown, still nothing, might have to think about taking harness out of car and unwrapping it to find problem. no way do i want to do that. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravelRX Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Have you went back to the basics yet? Seriously, Check the silly stuff. Is it out of gas? Ground wires? Ignition switch? Did hooking the ignitor up backwards hurt it? I wish you the best. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 28, 2005 Author Share Posted February 28, 2005 i wouldnt think that hooking up ignitor backwards would hurt it, after all, it did start and run for about a total of an hour and a half, including about 20 mins driving time. i think i have checked all the basics i can think of, except for the cam and crank angle sensors, if one or both went bad, then i would think that the ecu would shut motor down immediately. other than that i am at a loss for ideas, i ve checked everything i can think of, need a couple more brain cells on this one i guess. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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