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Help The New Guy- Hitachi Idle Problems


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check for vacumn leaks. they are the most common cause of poor/rough idle

use the sticker on the underside of the hood about the vacumn lines. make sure everything is hooked up right.

 

This is where it gets good! If everyone is ready here we go!!!

 

The engine is now an in-board boat motor. So the vaccum has been simplied. Kerry from Roo Builders and I walked throgh the vaccum and it appears to be correct. When I placed the new Carb on the engine I set the idle /needle valve at 2.5 turnes and began to adjust the idle down. The timing has been set and when I get down around 1000 rpm the idle starts getting rough. By the time I get it down to 900 rpm I have let the needle valve out around 4-4.5 turns. but the idle will not smooth out.

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first to start, I have a stripped hitachi on my wagon

 

here it goes. Considering its a carb, it can only be so many things:

 

I have a stripped hitachi on my wagonSpark, air, fuel, compression.

Compression should be 120 psi+

Timing - 7-12 degrees it will run right (IF the timing belts are on exactly how they are supposed to be)

Fuel pressure should be between 3 and 6 PSI only when you cranking on the engine, or its running

Plugs should be gapped at .44 err .044 whatever it is..

 

Since its in a boat, you need NO emissions stuff. The only vacumn lines you should have is going to the choke, and to the secondary. Plug All the other vacumn lines, or better yet, take the intake off and remove the all the hard lines and weld em shut. I assume you arent runnin the stock airbox?

 

What are you doing for the exhaust? most marine applications are wet exhuast so it makes me wonder

 

have new plugs/wires/rotor cap/fuel filter/coil? a fault in any of those could cause poor idle.

 

Another thing, I bought a car with a rebuilt hitachi carb from holley on it. It was garbage. I put my 19 year old carb off my wagon on that engine, and purred like a kitten

 

let me know, I'd like to see it run right. EA82 in a boat is a great idea

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first to start, I have a stripped hitachi on my wagon

 

here it goes. Considering its a carb, it can only be so many things:

 

I have a stripped hitachi on my wagonSpark, air, fuel, compression.

Compression should be 120 psi+

Timing - 7-12 degrees it will run right (IF the timing belts are on exactly how they are supposed to be)

Fuel pressure should be between 3 and 6 PSI only when you cranking on the engine, or its running

Plugs should be gapped at .44 err .044 whatever it is..

 

Since its in a boat, you need NO emissions stuff. The only vacumn lines you should have is going to the choke, and to the secondary. Plug All the other vacumn lines, or better yet, take the intake off and remove the all the hard lines and weld em shut. I assume you arent runnin the stock airbox?

 

What are you doing for the exhaust? most marine applications are wet exhuast so it makes me wonder

 

have new plugs/wires/rotor cap/fuel filter/coil? a fault in any of those could cause poor idle.

 

Another thing, I bought a car with a rebuilt hitachi carb from holley on it. It was garbage. I put my 19 year old carb off my wagon on that engine, and purred like a kitten

 

let me know, I'd like to see it run right. EA82 in a boat is a great idea

 

The only three things I havn't replaced are the coil, spark plug wires, and the fuel filter. The fuel filter in this thing is the size of a small oil filter attached to a separate electric pump.

 

The exhaust is set up like an air boat with duel exhaust (mufflers) that have a heat blanket rap the total length of the pipes and mufflers. Get this, the engine is cooled by a closed system that runs through the bottom of the boat it is called a keel cool. You can see the boat at www.reelfootcustomcamo.com look at the Machete Link on the home page.

 

I also changed every vaccum hose and caps today. She did idle a little better. So now I am back to my original problem. In order to get it to idle down to 1000-1200 rpm the fuel mixture screw has been backed out 8 turns. Is this a choke setting problem or a float issue? Or what?

 

Something else it is doing - as it idles about every ten seconds it will acts like it is starved for gas it will idle down then idle up to 1400 rpm then slowely go back to 1000-1200rpm. If I get it down to 900 rpm it will starve out best I can tell.

 

Both Carbs came from Roo Builders the original and the one I got wednesday. Both had the same problem. Can't get the idle down...

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could be the idle jet.. I think these carbs have those on em. Did they rejet the carb when they rebuilt it? If so, idle jet might be too small and that'd be the reason it'd act like it was starving for fuel.

 

 

Another thing, the choke should be fully open when you are idling. When you first start the engine, and its cold, it will idle like crap. My car, even with a new working choke I still have to rev it up a lil for the first 30 seconds it runs, then it idles fine.

 

Throttle cable too tight?

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could be the idle jet.. I think these carbs have those on em. Did they rejet the carb when they rebuilt it? If so, idle jet might be too small and that'd be the reason it'd act like it was starving for fuel.

 

 

Another thing, the choke should be fully open when you are idling. When you first start the engine, and its cold, it will idle like crap. My car, even with a new working choke I still have to rev it up a lil for the first 30 seconds it runs, then it idles fine.

 

Throttle cable too tight?

 

Yea, the choke is ok as far as position. As a matter of fact it is when the engine has warmed up and the choke is open when all the problems start. I'm going to replace the rest of the items today so all the hardware can be ruled out. Then I'll give CCR a Call Back and see what is next. I don't know if I mentioned it but the engine is also from CCR so at least I'll have tech help there too.

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