Bro Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 Is there a guide on USMB ? Or a thread with one. I have been searching and hour, here and google. Anyone ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 You can just ask...we'll guide ya through it. What are you wanting to do with the tranny? Remove it why? [HTi]Johnson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkankinPickle Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 first, inside the car, remove the 4WD lever cover(it will pop right off after you unsnap the boot). now unscrew and partially remove the rear center console (towards the back of the car, the one that houses the E-brake) with that lifted up a little unscrew the shifter knob and the front part of the console. after that the front part should lift right out. now shift into 4WD low and remove the 17mm nut [39-49 Nm(4.0-5.0kg/m, 29-36ft/lb)]that holds the 4WD shifter to the linkage. remove the rubber seal by unscrewing the large metal rectangle that secures it to the body. oh, also find some cheep masking tape or something similar and rap the upper half of the chrome on the shifter lever so it doesn't scratch or become damaged while you're dropping it through the body. alright you're done, at least inside anyway. -Next, disconnect the wires for the reverse lights and stuff along with the speedometer cable (be careful on the latter because the nut is made of plastic). you'll probably want to take out the spare tire support now too cause you'll have to do it latter anyway. -after that lift the car, put it on jack stands. make sure the car is high enough to allow the transmission to clear underneath when you're pulling it out. remove exhaust( i got away with just disconnecting the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust system first, and then removing the manifold form the engine, then i propped the piece near the drive line over to one side). -remove transverse link a.k.a. swaybar. there are two bolts on each bracket that hold it to the body, and one bolt on each trailing arm. for all six bolts[18-22 Nm(1.8-2.2kg/m, 13-16ft/lb)] -After that's done, take out the 14mm bolt (14mm nut as well)[59-69 Nm(6-7kg/m, 43-51ft/lb)] that holds the lower control arm onto the crossmember (both sides, right!). -Now while you're down there loosen, all most all the way, the two nuts(14mm)[46-54 Nm(4.7-5.5kg/m, 34-40ft/lb)], one on each side, that hold the engine to the tranny. these ones are kind of hard to get to...i used a socket attachment that looks like the U-joint on a driveshaft. -up top, disconnect the clutch and hill holder cable, as well as the starter, which has a 17mm nut on the bottom and a 14mm bolt on the top. and of course take the battery cables off the battery before hand. after that take off the 14mm bolt and nut[46-54 Nm(4.7-5.5kg/m, 34-40ft/lb)] on the other side of the top that holds the engine to the transmission. -time to remove the axles from the transmission, and you will need to make a special tool using a 3/16 in. punch (like a chisel) and a grinder. u just need to grind down some of the fatter portion of the punch so it will tap out the axle's spring pin without allowing the punch to go far enough in to-push the spring pin all the way out of the axle. you want to tap out the pin as little as possible, yet just enough to allow the axle to be removed from the transmission. you can grind it more but it makes things a whole lot easier if you spend the time to grind it just right. once the axle is free push the wheels away from the car to separate axles from transmission. -now disconnect drive shaft from the rear differential. there are four bolts[18-25 Nm(1.8-2.5kg/m, 13-18ft/lb)]. after those are out lower rear of the shaft and slide the driveline out of the tranny by carefully pulling. if there is oil in the trans then a bit will drain out of the end after you pull it out. -remove the two nuts that secure the tranny mounts. i've seen these nuts in 14mm and 17mm[34-47 Nm(3.5-4.8kg/m, 25-35ft/lb)], you might have something different. you will need a deep socket of what ever size to remove the nuts though. Now, loosen (about half way) the four bolts[20-25 Nm(2.0-2.6kg/m, 14-19ft/lb)maybe a little tighter if you aren't using new self locking nuts] that hold the tranny crossmember to the body. also there is a bracket that holds one of the emergency brake cables that needs to be disconnected so the cable doesn't get in the way. i think it's on the driver's side but it might be different for you cause of RHD vehicle. -back up top again, loosen nut (by approximately 10mm or 0.39in) which retains pitch stopper (the washer and rubber piece)to the transmission side, and tighten nut by an equal amount on the engine side. -securely support transmission by placing a hydro jack under it. after that's done completely remove the tranny crossmember. remove the two nuts which secure the engine to the transmission, and remove transmission from the vehicle. yess!!!!! the tranny is heavy, but not that heavy. you can remove it by your self if you are really careful, yet having a friend there for installation is all most a must. Although i had put in a new clutch so that might have made it a little more difficult to install. install in reverse order and follow the torque specs in the description if you have a torque wrench. if not it's not that big if a deal, make sure you tighten everything good enough (remember, aluminum is softer than steel). most importantly have fun, this is a really easy job for our subarus and very rewarding after you finally get to roll in your now fixed car. hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkankinPickle Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 yo yo finished Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bro Posted February 20, 2005 Author Share Posted February 20, 2005 yo yo finished excellent writeup man, thanks a billion :cool: p.s. hti-johnson - the transmission is a single range that I'm swapping for a dual range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkankinPickle Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 oh oh, if you can get the bracket that supports the 4WD shifter from the dual range vehicle. it's the bracket that bolts to the floor pan tunnel with two bolts (i'm pretty sure, about the two bolts). anyway, this peice is different on the single range cars. it will work with out this piece, but the shifter will be pushed all the way down against the plastic and makes it harder to dissengage the transfer case sometimes. *this is from experience of my 1980 hatchback single range that was converted to D/R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bro Posted February 24, 2005 Author Share Posted February 24, 2005 thanks, In the next couple of weeks, I will put all this theory into practice. Wish me luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendodave Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I agree, great writeup. Thanks, Pickle! I have a clutch that came with my extra trans. I have a lifted '84 wagon, and my spare trans is the '81, with lower ratio in third and fourth. Better for the bigger wheels, I've heard. When I did the clutch in my old Datsun 510, it was a big pain to align the clutch plate with the inputshaft, etc. I needed to get a clutch alignment tool. It seems to me I can put the clutch in, not tightened all the way, slide the trans part way in, so the input shaft on the trans aligns the clutch plate, then tighten all the clutch bolts. Am I wrong here? I need to get this tranny swap done, and your write up really got me started. I should put the clutch in while there, but need to get all possibly needed tools/parts before, its about 40 miles round trip to the parts store. I have the used clutch that came with the tranny, 110k on both, it looks pretty good, I have tranny mounts, and a new throwout bearing. If I need an alignment tool, can you make one from a broomstick or something else? Thanks! Mendo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northguy Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Thanks, I'll be using this in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskansubaru Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Wish me luck Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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