singletrack Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I just broke my 3/16th punch and I was thinking about a better way. All those spring pins do is ensure the axle won't slide off the spline, so you could shove pretty much anything in there an it'd work. So, I'm thinking an appropriately sized bolt and a couple of nuts backed into each other would work,or even a bolt with a lil' hole drilled in for a R/C car body clip or the like. I'd choose a size that would ensure there's no slop, or even go a little small and put some rubber tubing around the bolt so it fit snug but comes out easy. The drilled bolt and clip would make pulling/adding an axle take like 10 seconds. Even with some nuts on there it'd be fast, I'd rather break out a couple of 12mm wrenches then lay in the dirt and beat on a roll pin. I'd keep the pins in the axle that stays put of course. The only hangup I can see is making sure the bolt (or whatever I use) clears the trailing arm as the axle spins. Anywho, I'm SURE I'm not the first to think of this, so somebody come and tell me it'll work. Or tell me it won't so I can try it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I've been thinking about this aswell, and thought a cleavis pin would work if it was an approx. O.D. as the roll pin. Some thing like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 a bolt and nyloc nut would work. I would make sure its a high quality fine thread bolt not for strength but for thread precision, so it wont come loose easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Great idea...but what do you do with the axle after it's disconnected from the diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 we're talking about rear axles, you pop both sides and throw the axle in that little storage compartment in the floor of the trunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddcomp Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 i used a loooonng bolt and nylon lock nut with just for fun locktite prolly has gone at least 2k since i did the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 bent nail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 1, 2005 Author Share Posted March 1, 2005 bent nail Nice, except I'd hafta un-bend to pull the axle. Still that's truly ghetto, and therefore belongs on my rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 bent nail I'd run it :drunk:But then again I'd run anything. hose clamps, duct tape, zip ties, they're the name of the game when you're wheelin with me In fact I have 1 hose clamp being used as a balancing weight on a driveshaft that I made about 1mm out (and it works perfectly now, up to 200km/hr ) The other hose clamp is holding my broken t-case mount right now, and hasnt failed me on any of my backyard excursions yet, though I will fix it properly before I put it on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Svengouli7 Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 There's a zip strip on my driveway queen. I figured I could just keep a pack in the car for other quick fixes anyway. Snip w/ the dykes and its off...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bratenstein Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 I've been thinking about this aswell, and thought a cleavis pin would work if it was an approx. O.D. as the roll pin. Some thing like this: I think this is a cool solution. Easy to use and elegant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 ok, not to sound all high and mighty, i do some ghetto stuff from time to time. but zip ties, and cotter pins wont to the job the roll pin does. they move around on those splines enough with the pin in there, and its a tight fit. i've never had any problem removing them, or installing them =/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 5, 2005 Author Share Posted March 5, 2005 they move around on those splines enough with the pin in there, and its a tight fit. A tight fit in the cv cup yes, but the hole through the stub axle is much bigger than the roll pin. So the spline can slide around regardless. I am actually drilling out the pin holes on a spare axle right now so they'll fit the 1/4" clevis pins I got at Truevalue. I think it'll work good, but if doesn't you guys will be the first to know:drunk: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 the point is, when your on the trail and in the mud, what would YOU rather take out than a roll pin? that is the question. me personally, anything that would get my white butt home. ~Josh~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subeman90 Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 I'm no hardcore wheeler like you guys but I do have experience with those clevis pins. one word: CRAP. I USED to use those on my trailer at work (the good ones not the cheap junk for walmart etc) and they will blow apart if you look at them funny. Keep in mind this is on a TRAILER not a hardcore rig like you guys have...I like the bolt idea much better than that sh*&&y clevis pin. Hate to burst your bubble.... but I'd hate even more to see you stranded. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam N.D.J. Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 I've used 6 penny framing nails, and cotter pins both on my axles with no problems at all. Works just fine. That pin isn't a load bearing item, only thing it does is keep the cup from sliding off the stub. Now if you have your suspension improperly set up, then it is possible that you could shear off the cotter pin, but more than likely you would hyper-extend the joint first. (Done that a lot). Thats all SOOBME ran on his wagon, as well as a few others round here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
incognito Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 i think possibly having a custom made driveline with ujoints might be an idea? i'd help in the R & R process. Just an idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 6, 2005 Author Share Posted March 6, 2005 I just did a pretty gnarly run (my first with the welded diff) and had nothing but cotter pins stuck through my axles. Believe me, I was working I was working the suspension past its limits and had no problems. Time will tell of course, but I think it's fine. Installing and removing axles took under 5 minutes, but even then it was a pain to unbend the cotters. If I can make the clevis pin work, installing should be like 2-3 min, and I prolly won't even hafta get under the car to pull the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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