Buddy Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 okay so the other day i take my suby for a spin around my street court and as i was pulling into my driveway clunk clunk it went then the engine died on me right in front of my house. the engine cranked but it wouldn't start.to this day i'm not sure what happend. it started after i pumped the accelerator pedal while cranking it(its a carbed 85' GL wagon). i believe its the plugs or something. any way its probaly my my fault because i hadn't moved it for about a month or so before that happend. bad me bad bad bad me ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northguy Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 It could be a whole bunch of things. More info would help diagnose it better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieman Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 Check your timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy Posted March 1, 2005 Author Share Posted March 1, 2005 It could be a whole bunch of things. More info would help diagnose it better. well i'm not sure exactly what it was but i think it was faulty spark plugs or something in the ignition system what do you think it could be? nearest answer please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy Posted March 1, 2005 Author Share Posted March 1, 2005 Check your timing belt. the timing belt is fine to this point i'm not sure if i need a new belt soon because all i know is that you have to replace it every 100,000 miles ( my suby has 211,000 original miles on it) it could not have been the timing belt becouse the engine rotated so that can't be it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 The heads are non-interference, so engine rotation is not an indication of a good or bad T-belt. Also the spec'd t-belt change interval is every 60k - so a snapped T-belt sounds likely - pull the disty cap off and crank - if the rotor rotates, then your t-belts are pro'lly good - usually the t-belt that goes on that side is the 1st to fail the Hitachi - crappy carb could also be the problem - had a carb fail on me like that in 95-degree weather a mile and a half from home - sometime around then I decided to convert to SPFI at my next oppertunity check for an ignition pulse with a timing light - that will give you a fairly definate yes/no on the ignition side of things - pull the plugs and check them too try cranking it and holding the choke closed with something - if it starts it will buck a lot - but it will move when was the last time the fuel pump/filter were replaced - failure of them would explain the bucking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy Posted March 1, 2005 Author Share Posted March 1, 2005 The heads are non-interference, so engine rotation is not an indication of a good or bad T-belt. Also the spec'd t-belt change interval is every 60k - so a snapped T-belt sounds likely - pull the disty cap off and crank - if the rotor rotates, then your t-belts are pro'lly good - usually the t-belt that goes on that side is the 1st to fail the Hitachi - crappy carb could also be the problem - had a carb fail on me like that in 95-degree weather a mile and a half from home - sometime around then I decided to convert to SPFI at my next oppertunity check for an ignition pulse with a timing light - that will give you a fairly definate yes/no on the ignition side of things - pull the plugs and check them too try cranking it and holding the choke closed with something - if it starts it will buck a lot - but it will move when was the last time the fuel pump/filter were replaced - failure of them would explain the bucking hey thanks man i'll check the fuel pump/filter. i'm converting to spfi in a year or two anyway. ( i'll just use your list you gave me on what to check). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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