Another '84 turbo wagon dilemma

[jeffroid]

I’ve been posting asking questions about an ’84 turbo wagon with engine trouble in the last couple of weeks. Well, I bought it, got it home, and now the saga begins. It started and ran – drove it up on the tow dolly. When I got it home (yes, I disconnected the driveline), the first thing I did was a leakdown test.

 

 

 

The motor appears to be toast. I don’t want to make this post too long, but the leakdown results seemed to indicate that I’m looking at much more that just heads or head gaskets. The leakage percentages were 45% and 65% on the right side, and you could hear coolant bubbling, but couldn’t hear much leakage at all through the valves. On the left side the rear cylinder reading was 80% leakage with nothing noticeable past the valves, and on the front cylinder, as soon as I hooked up the tester, water would run rapidly out of the radiator.

 

 

 

So I must be looking at a total rebuild best case, but probably a cracked shortblock, right?

 

 

 

I’m really bummed. I didn’t pay that much for it, but this wagon is in EXCELLENT shape – totally stock. From what I’ve been able to glean from this board, EA81t’s are pretty rare, right? Will I be able to find another engine?

 

 

 

If I try to drop in a non-turbo EA81, will I be looking at a nightmare come true when it comes to all the systems and wiring and stuff? I will need to pass emissions.

 

 

 

Could I get some suggestions on what to do? Is there a way I can determine whether or not the block is cracked or not before I proceed to rip into this thing? I appreciate any help I can get.

[Ross]

I wouldn't assume the block is cracked. You will probably find all it needs are rings, headgasket, maybe head repair, valve grinding etc. Only one way to find out anyway.

If the block is dead, you can use a N/A block, you just have to drill & tap a hole for the knock sensor. You should be able to get any cracks in the head repaired. These engines seem to be mechanically sound in design, so i wouldn't expect too much damage unless it has been horribly overheated.

[northguy]

If the body is good, sit on it and wait for a motor to pop up, or look at a JDM.

[jeffroid]

Thanks for the quick replies. That brings up a stupid question that I've been meaning to ask for a while.

 

What does N/A mean? I've got a couple of guesses, but not sure.

 

And I've got EA81 non turbo shortblocks at my disposal. If my turbo shortblock is toast, what else do I have to do to use one of those besides accommodate the knock sensor? I'll need to use the turbo pistons, correct?

[Ross]

N/A = Normally Aspirated (no supercharging)

 

To maintain factory compression ratio, yes you do have to use turbo pisons. You can, however, stay with the N/A pistons if you want more power, but you would probably have to add an intercooler and use high octane gas to prevent detonation. Apart from that, the shortblock is the same as far as i know.

[richierich]

It is almost impossible to do an accurate compression test of the headgaskets on that side if it is bad. It is a good sign that the other side that probably doesn't have a headgasket leak has better compression. I would drain the oil put fresh oil in it, and then listen for a rod knock. If no rod knock, then I would pull it out motor and remove the heads, don't know the mileage, but probably recommend new rings at least.

 

Good Luck, and if the project becomes too much, I am always interested in ea81T vehicles, PM Me

[jeffroid]

Thanks for all the help, everybody. The mileage is 150K. After reading the replies and sleeping on it, what I'll do change the oil and listen to it run to see if I can get a few more clues. As fast as it's pumping the water out though, I don't think it's going to be much of a run.

 

Based on the looks of the dipstick, I'm sure I'm going to find a lot of water in the drain pan. With those leakage readings, and coolant in the oil, I'm sure I'm looking at a complete rebuild, assuming the "bad" side is due to the head gasket and not something else more dastardly.

 

If I do a complete rebuild, what am I looking at in terms of costs for a kit that will have rings, bearings, and all the seals, gaskets, etc that I'll need, and where's the best place to get such a kit?

 

Thanks again.