Marck Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 How do I remove the crankshaft sprockets? They are on their really tight. Any tricks? Also, what do I do if the dowel pin is missing? Where can I get another one and which hole does it go in on the outer sprocket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X35 Performance Posted March 6, 2005 Share Posted March 6, 2005 I just did this about an hour ago so I could redo the front seal (which was pretty crispy)... I took two screwdrivers and worked it from each side. Careful though.. I broke a little chunk off of each side doing this. This is what they say in the Chiltons book... If I had been a little more patient, it probably would have worked fine...It appears that there might be some loctite on there, so you may want to spray it with some PB blaster or similar and let it work for a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted March 6, 2005 Author Share Posted March 6, 2005 Thanks for the reply. I figured there was prying involved, but wanted to be sure because I didn't want to mess anything up. I tried to do this before with a little force and it seems that my screwdriver wanted to bend. Time to step up to a bigger screw driver! I am going to go try this right now. Now, if anybody could give me some info about the dowel pin then that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted March 6, 2005 Author Share Posted March 6, 2005 The two screw driver method worked perfectly! Thank you. Once I got the outer one off, the inner one slid off without resistances. It seems that there is a rectangular piece of metal attached to the crankshaft to line up the two sprockets. Now, I just got to figure out this dowel pin problem. Got any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted March 7, 2005 Author Share Posted March 7, 2005 Nobody know's where to get a replacement dowel pin? Will I have to go to the dealer? or the parts store? or is this something I can get at a hardware store? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phishy75 Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Nobody know's where to get a replacement dowel pin? Will I have to go to the dealer? or the parts store? or is this something I can get at a hardware store? I'm running without a dowel pin on my EA82T with no problems. If you really want one, it should be easy enough to fab one up out of a piece of small steel rod or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 My EA82T didn't have the locater pin on the factory sprockets or pulley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Nobody know's where to get a replacement dowel pin? Will I have to go to the dealer? or the parts store? or is this something I can get at a hardware store? I would bet you good 'ol hardware store would have one - or most any chain auto parts stores (if you feel the need to install one). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted March 7, 2005 Author Share Posted March 7, 2005 I will be using the spider intake with the water pump timing mark bracket to set the timing. I will need to mark the crank pulley so I think it would be a good idea to install a dowel pin that way I know that the crank pulley is always bolted on the same postion. I don't want to have to remark the pulley everytime I pull that thing off. I can make or find something to use in place of the dowel pin. Does it matter in which hole or slot the dowel pin goes into on the outer sprocket? I don't know if the harmonic balancer/crank pulley needs to go on in a certain way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 go to a fastener store, a place that only sells fasteners, nails, screws, bolts, etc, not home depot, i got some for my flywheel, get one that is hardened if you get one, but if others are runnin without them i say its up to you man. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 I might suggest trying out a carb motor crank pulley and sprockets. Not only with they have the dowel pin you require, but the pulley is about 2 pounds lighter than the EA82T pulley. I believe there are some comparison pics in my gallery:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted March 7, 2005 Author Share Posted March 7, 2005 I might suggest trying out a carb motor crank pulley and sprockets. Not only with they have the dowel pin you require, but the pulley is about 2 pounds lighter than the EA82T pulley. I believe there are some comparison pics in my gallery:D I looked at your gallery. That is interesting that the turbo motor does not have a dowel pin and has a large notch (like mine) where the dowel pin ought to go while the carb motor's outer sprocket does not have that notch and has a dowel pin (looks like the inner sprocket with a dowel pin). So maybe the turbo motors did not need the dowel pin? Why would the carb motor need it? So does it matter at all in which position the crank pulley is bolted on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted March 8, 2005 Author Share Posted March 8, 2005 Okay, last crank pulley question, I promise. What are the five hemispheres carved into the front of the crank pulley for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 8, 2005 Share Posted March 8, 2005 wrote: So does it matter at all in which position the crank pulley is bolted on? It's late and I'm fading out here but: I've had the front pulley off of 4 EA-82 engines. Only one had that dowel pin, it's around here somewhere in a Fuji film container. If I understand what you're asking, then no, it doesn't matter what position the crank pulley is bolted on. No timing marks or such there to index. To keep the pulley, washer, bolt, from backing off I dimple the washer on both sides with a punch and torque it down with some blue lock-tite. Old biker thing that. Have no problems with it. hth Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breaffyaviation Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 I tapped and threaded mine ,stuck a quarter inch bolt in and cut the head off it .Perfect. Jude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 I tapped and threaded mine ,stuck a quarter inch bolt in and cut the head off it .Perfect.Jude Hey Jude, There's more than one way to skin a cat, that's for sure. One Subaru parts car I took apart had a Subaru hub washer on there with a large lock-washer to fill in between the i.d. of the washer to the bolt with the regular washer on top of that. On my '89 EA-82 I removed all AC components under the hood, single pulley on the alternator with one belt. Used a non AC altenator bracket from the above mentioned parts car. People with functioning AC would have more of a demand on that pulley, especially at high RPM. I wouldn't want that pulley to move whatever way it's done. In the above case, it hasn't. This on a car I can shift at 7300 RPM, it starts stuttering if I try to go higher. Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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