96 Outback.. No Spark P0340 Code

[frag]

Got the heater out... Here's the results. Between Pin#2 and Pin#70 I got

 

1.914 K Ohms Resistance. Don't know if that is right, but sounds right because if you ohms test just the camshaft sensor you get close to that resistance value. Also, I thought I would see if there is voltage to the sensor when the key is turned. Yes there is 12.+ volts. Is that to be there? I also got resistance from pin#2 to pin #16, #44 & #96. Have no idea why.... but at this point I am getting rally confused.. So there you have it.. Next step is to have it towed.. but I also have a neighbor who works for Chrysler and it still could be a timing issue. If the timing is off just a little, then it's possible that it is the timing still.. I'll try the timing again tomorrow..

 

Dan :-\

 

My feeling is your camshaft sensor is not connected to the right pins on the ECM. Camshaft sensor is a «reluctance magnetic sensor» that is self powered (send a voltage varying around 0.1 volt to the ECM) and should not be connected to outside voltage according to this explanation of it's functionning found on the Internet: http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/hss/SpeedAndPosition/pdf/B1_1.pdf

«Completely self-powered, VRS (magnetic) sensors are simple, rugged devices that do not require an external voltage

source for operation. They are generally used to provide speed, timing or synchronization data to a display (or control

circuitry) in the form of a pulse train.»

Since I have the FSM for 96, maybe someone with your model year FSM could give you the right pin numbers.

Good luck!

[frag]

For Frag;

 

So let me clearfy this. I should check the cam shaft sensor connector to the ecm ? I know the schematics say 28 & 7 but actually it's not.. I trace them out and found out to be different. number 28 on schematic is actaully #2 and #7 is actually #70. When I tested it was .2 ohms resistance.. what does this mean? Problem? if shorted what to do...? same for the crankshaft sensor. ohms out from the connector for the sensor to itself.. to the ecm connector at .2 ohms... Again is this bad..? If so How to correct ??? If shorted out.. Maybe I need to buy a new wiring harness (the one that goes or is attached to the intake manifold. The wires inside the engine compartment were just cleaned and I put new tape on them to better protect them) cost ... @ 156.00 USD... What do you think ?

 

Dan (Chicago)

 

For what it's worth, in the 96 MY FSM, pin 2 is related to the ECM power supply and pin 70 has to do with the fuel injectors.

[dwalker]

This is really getting confusing.. When I intially took the engine out of the car for the overahaul procedure... I did not do anything with the wiring inside the care or to the connector to the ECM. So I really don't know how the connections would have changed. When connecting the wiring harness that is under the intake manifold to the connectors that connect to the main wiring harness is sorta dummy proof .. Different sizes for each one. So I didn't cross any of the wires... Since my last report I discussed the issue with yet another dealership and they still point to some timing issue indiciating that when you put the timing belt back on, the marks have to be 100% on.. No deviation. So it's still possible that I still don't have the timing on right. So I'll go back to that one. and I still haven't done the test from sensor connector to engine ground with the ECM disconnected. Tomorrow for that test and then again for resetting the timing again.. I'll try but it's better If I have a special tool to hold those two timing sprockets on the left side exactly lined up. Because when putting the timing belt on the sprockets on the left side are under load. Not easy... Geezh.... never had this much problem with changing a few parts out... I'll keep this up to date and posted..

 

 

Dan :-\

[dwalker]

Cougar;

 

 

I have a RMS meter than can read in Hz.. So in therory ... if I put the meter on Hz reading and then what? put the leads on connector that connects to the Camshaft sensor... and then try to crank it and see what happens..? But do not have the sensor connected... Correct ??

 

Dan

[bearbalu]

Do you have you old camshaft sensor? Just try that. Else if you can borrow it off another Subaru for a few minutes...

[Hondasucks]

P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor)

 

MAke sure your CPS is plugged in and the wires are in good shape

[dwalker]

Yet another cold update here in Chicago.........

 

Did yet another ohms resistance check on the Camshaft postion sensor wiring harness. I got this test from a tech who works at yet another car dealer. In turn he got it from a website that the dealer uses for trouble shooting problems. So anyhow... details on test I did...............

 

The test title was

10AA1 - " CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AND ECM CONNECTOR"

 

1. Turn ignition switch to OFF
   
2. Disconnect connector from camsaft position sensor
   
3. measure resitance of harness between camshaft position sensor connector and engine ground.
   
   1. 
      
   2. Connector & Terminal
      
   3. (E15) No 1. to Engine Ground: Is the resitance more than 100 K ohms ? If Yes Repair Harness & connector...
      

The answer here is Yes.. measure at 200.6 K Ohms.. so I guess this finally means that the wiring harness under the intake manifold is bad.. I guess I'll buy this and try it and see what happens...

Any thoughts from anyone on this idea?

 

Still Perplexed..

 

In Chicago Dan

[Cougar]

It sounds like they are trying to measure the resistance of the harness going through the ECU. I assume that the connector on that end was still connected. This is not a real good test to me if that is what is really going on.

 

You stated that the sensor pins tie to pins 2 and 70 of the ECU if I remember correctly. If that is right then lets test each wire from both ends of the harness. First remove the sensor connection and ECU connector so that the harness is isolated. Place the meter probe on one of the sensor connections on the harness and then check the ECU harness end. You should see close to a short on one of the wires if the harness is good. Do the same thing on the other wire.

You also should not see any resistance to ground on either of the wire connections or any resistance between the two wires going to the sensor.

[dwalker]

Cougar (glen)

 

 

I'll try that later tonight.. Not too difficult to do... Q: You said if the harness is good I should see almost a "short" ? What would the meter read ?

 

Thanks Dan

[dwalker]

And the results are:

 

PIN #70

• With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side and the Positive or red lead to Pin 70 on the ECM Connector.
  
  • .5 ohms
    

  [*]With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side connection and the black (common) to the ECM Connector:

  • .2 ohms
    

PIN #2

• Pin # 2 with the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side and the Positive or red lead to Pin 2 on the ECM Connector.
  
  • .4 ohms
    

  [*]With the common or black lead on the meter to the sensor side connection and the black (common) to the ECM Connector:

   

  • .3 ohms
     
    

Are these normal readings... ???

 

 

Dan:confused:

[dwalker]

Just another thought......... the computer is indicationg that the engine has 25 rpm's. Sure sounds like a short some where, why else would the computer read 25rpms......... ?

[Cougar]

Dan,

 

You asked what the meter should read when measuring a short. Almost anytime you have a meter reading less than 1 ohm you can consider that a short. A piece of wire is basically zero ohms. When you see very low resistance between whatever you are measuring across it means that the connection is tied together.

 

You stated that you took a second measurement of each of the sensor leads to the ECU ground lead and got readings of .2 and .3 ohms. This means that both sensor leads are tied to ground somehow. Not good. Your leads from the sensor to the ECU are good because you got a low reading on each wire but it appears both wires are also connected to ground somehow. Did you isolate both ends of the harness when you took the measurement?

 

Take another reading of pins 2 and 70 while the harness is isolated. Put one of the probes on either of the pins and put the other meter probe to a good chassis ground point. Do you still see a short there? If so then you will need to track the problem down. Even if that is ok, you need to see why the leads are tied to the ECU common.

 

I'm not sure why the RPM's are showing a reading. It may not mean anything or it could mean some other trouble. You should get the sensor wires fixed first.

[Tiny Clark]

I think one of you guys should call the other on a land line and talk this thru. When I read this it doesn't seem like you guys are on the same page.

[dwalker]

Glen;

 

I could call you if you it's ok.. I'm in chicago time soo... Send me an email at muwew@hotmail.com if you want to discuss this.. thanks.

 

Dan

[Cougar]

Dan,

 

Sent you an email.

[dwalker]

Glen:

 

 

Very nice to talk with you tonight.. You want some of my cold weather?

We'll here is what I did:

 

Disconnected the wiring harness from the ECM / ECU

Tested both pins on the camshaft sensor to engine gnd. Nothing.... No reading at all... So what does this mean..? bad or good...??

 

Also attached one of the meter's lead (common) to the engine compartment and the other lead (read one or positive) and touched it to a few places inside the passenger cabin.. like the bolts holding the seats down, the ecm bolts.. got around 1.3 - 1.5 ohms resistance there.. So I guess that is good..

 

 

Dan

[Cougar]

Hi Dan,

 

Good talking with you also.

 

Since you got no reading on either of the two sensor wires to ground that means that the wires are isolated from ground, which is good. There shouldn't be any connection that way. The 1.5 ohms reading you got between the ground points seems ok but I was hoping for less than 1 ohm. One other reading I would like you to make is measuring the engine ground to the dash ground. Place one probe to a good metal spot on the engine and the other probe to a place under the dash. You may need a jumper wire to do this to extend the probe wire. You should see near zero ohms if things are good.

 

One last test is to check the resistance between the sensor wires with the ends isolated still. You should have infinate resistance. This means the wires are not tied together somewhere.

[dwalker]

Update;;

 

 

Glen;

 

We'll you'll never guess what happened next? First off the reason for the P0340 camshaft sensor error.......... When I took it off I crossed the #2 Injector Connector with the Camshaft Sensor connector. That is why the pin numbers on the schematic didn't match up.. that's why the incorrect ohms readings and so forth. Next thing is that the harness that connects the engine wire harness to the rest of the car.. One of the connectors wasn't making good contact.

 

Once these two things were figured out.... the Monster Lives !!!! I'll write more later... with more details.. but that is the quick and dirty version..

 

dan in chicago

[Cougar]

Good sleuthing Dan. It's usually the simple things that get'ya but you found it.

[frag]

Update;;

 

 

Glen;

 

We'll you'll never guess what happened next? First off the reason for the P0340 camshaft sensor error.......... When I took it off I crossed the #2 Injector Connector with the Camshaft Sensor connector. That is why the pin numbers on the schematic didn't match up.. that's why the incorrect ohms readings and so forth. Next thing is that the harness that connects the engine wire harness to the rest of the car.. One of the connectors wasn't making good contact.

 

Once these two things were figured out.... the Monster Lives !!!! I'll write more later... with more details.. but that is the quick and dirty version..

 

dan in chicago

 

Check posts 26 and 27. I'll settle for 30% of the glory.

[Cougar]

You are correct Frag. If we had looked into the discrepency then it would have saved some time. We should have paid more attention to that. I didn't know the connectors could be confused like that.

[dwalker]

Sorry Frag....... I guess my brain wasn't working on all cylinders during the last part of this rebuild. Update... The wire(s) that were also giving problems was one pin on the connector to the coil was loose, the plastic connector to the ignitor was also loose and finally one of the connectors from the engine wiring harness was loose. Once all pushed in and fixed, car runs well. Put on 100 miles and so far so good. But I'll feel much better after about 1000 miles or so. Seems ok though.

 

I do greatly appreciate all of the advice from the members who responded and helped me out on this one. Thanks again...

 

One thing for sure... I sure do know this subaru engine.. Next project .......... just some light maintenance on the rear drive axle... NO WIRES !!!

 

Dan in Chicago .........

[Cougar]

Your welcome for the help Dan. Drive on.

[Tiny Clark]

Good deal Walker, rock on!

[dwalker]

Hope everyone is well out there.. in Subaru Land...... It's been around 1200 miles since the engine rebuild.. All good.. we'll I think it is.. Only thing is that it's really hard to tell if the oil level is ok or not. Changed the oil after about 500 miles.. boy was it really dirty for a newly built engine... Maybe it's just all of the stuff inside getting worn in.. since most new parts internally. But sure seems that the oil leve is weird.. Ok then not... Not buring oil, not oil in coolant, no drips, no leaks, nothing !!!

 

 

We'll just a note on the after math of the rebuild. So far the engine is making a lot of that "slapping" noise I've been reading about.. maybe it will come in abour 30K miles.. who knows.. Runs good for now..

 

Everyone take it easy out there. !!!

 

Dan in Chicago