Ignition Timing on Ea81

[lefty2053]

I was going to try and set the timing on this thing and can't find the ignition timing mark nor the timing mark access hole on the right side of the flywheel housing. I read in the Haynes Subaru 1600 1800 book about this and I am stumped.

 

It says : "Locate the timing mark access hole on the right side of the flywheel housing. Remove the rubber cover."

 

I can't find the access hole nor the rubber cover. What am I missing here? I used a flashlight and still can't see anything like this.

 

I was going to set the timing because I am using a higher grade gas then it had been used to. Any help would be apreciated greatly.

[Skip]

Lefty

I always feel a pict is worth a kilo-word

so look under the dip stick and

__hope this helps_

_______________

========> Tighty

[themixtoo]

I was going to try and set the timing on this thing and can't find the ignition timing mark nor the timing mark access hole on the right side of the flywheel housing. I read in the Haynes Subaru 1600 1800 book about this and I am stumped.

 

If this is a EA81 Turbo, the timing mark is on the front crank pulley and the Haynes is wrong. Gary w/Turbo Brat

[MilesFox]

turn the disty to the right to advance it

[MilesFox]

oh yeah the haynes book refers to the right side of the vehicle as if you were in the car facing forward. so passenger side is the right side of the car

 

the haynes book can be tricky to follow as it is translated from british terms i do believe. make sure you read all the text thoroughly. poeple will argue the haynes book is no good but i find it very useful, and a lot of the diagrams are out of the FSM

[Skip]

As Miles states "to the right"

 

We also call this clockwise as looking down on the distributor cap

 

The rotor turns counter (or anti) clockwise.

 

You can tell you are advancing the timing if the idle increases

 

Haynes should have stuck to making underwear-

except for their pirating.

 

The Children's er Chiltons is even worse

 

Go fishing in the bay of E for a Factory Service Manual if you want the real skinny.

 

How much are you planing on bumping it up?

 

These distributors are known for having

bad vacuum advance diaphrams.

 

Might be wise to check this while you are in the area.

[lefty2053]

Thanks guys, found the cover and mark. I was looking in the front of the engine compartment, near the flywheel as the book stated. I wasn't going to advance it much, it just wasn't running quite right. It would backfire when going out of 2nd gear. And seemed to lack power. I know this motor doesn't have power in the first place, but it still seemed a bit sluggish. It has new plugs and rotor, I might change the wires as well.

[coronan]

It's there any way to replace the diaphragm with out buying a whole dizzy?

[subnz]

Rule of Thumb

Slight detonation under heavy throttle openings from low rpm - timing about right

                                                                               

                                                                                                   -reasonable detonation - timing advanced

 

                                                                                                   -no detonation and sluggish acceleration / backfiring - timing retarded.

Static ignition timing  to 6 degrees BTDC (before top dead centre), 90 RON fuel or more  / less depending on what fuel you're using.

 

I use a static test light across breaker points and rotate motor by hand (ignition key on) lining up timing marks on flywheel as soon as light

 

glows  ( rotating distributor back and forth to achieve this.)  with rotor pointing at #1 cylinder lead position on cap.

 

Its important that breaker points are set 1st to  20 thou (thousandths of an inch) and not pitted and in good condition /new

 

If electronic will need a strobe style dynamic timing light connected #1 cylinder lead

 

Also If the diaphram on vacuum advance isn't working too well other parts maybe worn as well; ie wear on the shaft / centrifugal advance

 

components etc    ;so it wouldn't hurt to replace the whole distributor.  If its worn good consistant,   ignition timing isn't so good.

Depending on which distributor (Hitachi / Nippon Denso, breaker / electronic) is fitted to your vehicle, some vacuum advance units can be removed

ie 2 screws holding unit into body and vacuum advance link looped over pin on advance / retard plate holding breakers / coils

Also agree find Haynes service manuals very good on the whole. have been using these for years before the internet.

Edited April 9, 2016 by subnz

[oczuk32]

On 4/9/2016 at 1:32 AM, subnz said:

Rule of Thumb

Slight detonation under heavy throttle openings from low rpm - timing about right

                                                                               

                                                                                                   -reasonable detonation - timing advanced

 

                                                                                                   -no detonation and sluggish acceleration / backfiring - timing retarded.

Static ignition timing  to 6 degrees BTDC (before top dead centre), 90 RON fuel or more  / less depending on what fuel you're using.

 

I use a static test light across breaker points and rotate motor by hand (ignition key on) lining up timing marks on flywheel as soon as light

 

glows  ( rotating distributor back and forth to achieve this.)  with rotor pointing at #1 cylinder lead position on cap.

 

Its important that breaker points are set 1st to  20 thou (thousandths of an inch) and not pitted and in good condition /new

 

If electronic will need a strobe style dynamic timing light connected #1 cylinder lead

 

Also If the diaphram on vacuum advance isn't working too well other parts maybe worn as well; ie wear on the shaft / centrifugal advance

 

components etc    ;so it wouldn't hurt to replace the whole distributor.  If its worn good consistant,   ignition timing isn't so good.

Depending on which distributor (Hitachi / Nippon Denso, breaker / electronic) is fitted to your vehicle, some vacuum advance units can be removed

ie 2 screws holding unit into body and vacuum advance link looped over pin on advance / retard plate holding breakers / coils

Also agree find Haynes service manuals very good on the whole. have been using these for years before the internet.

Is this adjustment for the NA or Turbo engine?

[moosens]

Holy resurrection!! 
 

Skip , we miss you buddy! RIP

 

I would say this is for N/A and not the turbo - my opinion. 

[el_freddo]

I think it’s for NA EA81, also applies to NA EA82. 

For MPFI and MPFI turbo you need to connect some plugs under the dash to let the ECU know it’s in test mode. SPFI could be the same but I’m not 100% sure on that. 

Cheers

Bennie