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loyale clutch replacement


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Greetings all... I've been searching around the site for some info on a clutch replacement... I'm surprised that I haven't found it yet... Nothing in USRM,...but if you can direct me to the info that'd be great.

 

Here's the gig: it's a 92 Loyale 4wd, non turbo. My second Loyale, so I guess I'm hooked. I just picked it up for 600 bucks, it's immaculate, had been a tow vehicle behind an RV for a lot of it's 200K. Runs strong, but has some issues. One is what I think is a bearing in the clutch. Sometimes after disengaging a gear, this spinning-whirring noise comes from the front end. I can stop it by gently letting the clutch out so it's just at the point of engaging, just starting to grab. It's not a nice noise...kind of loud and a little disturbing. Without knowing better, I'm assuming that a new clutch kit is in order:-\ , so I'm on my way to doing that. (Stop me if I'm wrong). Another thought was maybe there's a way to lubricate through the bell-housing without tearing it apart...someone told me some cars have this feature...

 

I looked in Chilton's and they say to pull the tranny and do this thing from underneath. How do you all do it? Pull the engine or the tranny? My main concern is not having to do one or the other, but I live on a slope. All of my repairs happen on that slope, I can get the engine out and have done so on my other loyale, but I don't know about being under the car dropping the tranny even with wheels chocked and jackstands... So if it's as easy to go the engine route, I'd prefer that...

 

So, if anyone is thinking of posting a how-to on the USRM, I'd encourage them... and if not, perhaps I could generate a draft from this experience.

 

Last question...where to get the clutch... I've heard Napa and 1stsubaruparts.com... any other suggestions...

 

Thanks all,

belizeanbus

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I would say to pull the engine. You have done it before, so you have an idea of what is involved, you can do it from the top of the car, and you don't have to bench-press the tranny back up.

 

Others might offer you another alternative: Just separate the engine and tranny and scoot one/both away enough to get working room. I have not tried it yet, but sounds like too much bother for me.

 

A groaning/screeing/weird noise could be a throwout bearing going bad. These are not serviceable (under normal situations, anyways). I have one that is seasonally noisy: It only screes during certain months.

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i have always separated the two and (with the fans and radiator out, and cardboard in front of the A/C condenser) slid the engine forward. jacking the trans up just a little will help with removal and reentry.

 

you may want to consider pulling the engine as it's not that much more work (I don't have an engine crane). someone on here dropped the hint that it may be easier to remove the throttle body from the intake than to fink with the fuel lines by the master cylinder. i will definitely try this the next time i change a clutch. other considerations include replacing the rear main seal (hard to tap in as room is limited in the engine bay) as well as any front of the block maintenance you may want to catch up on.

Also, get two throwout bearing retainer clips from the dealer. $5 for two means there's no reason to reuse the old ones. i'll bet that you may even have one or both of yours broken if the noise is the throwout bearing.

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i vote for pulling the motor. thgere is a way to do it without pulling either, i have done this once:

 

take out the radiator and undo the heater hoses, unbolt the engine from the tranny. raise the tranny by a jack so the motor mounts come away from the crossmember, and use the hoist to suspend the motor and pull it forward, you can get a degree of separation without having to disconnect everything else, separate far enough to get the pressure plate out and you are good to go. its kind of tight i would recommend this procedure for someone experienced in subaur clutches, but if it gets to be a pain just disconnect everything else and pull the motor out

 

since the motor will be out do the rear main seal, and any other seals on the motor if you wish while its out of the car

 

givent the opportunity to use a lift and a tranny jack i would do it from underneath, but his involves draining the gear oil and some may leak out the driveshaft, can be messy a bit

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For more control when reinstalling your tranny (to guard the inoput shaft) I'd recommend using some type of tranny jack ($60 Harbor Freight, can also be used for diffs and anything else that just a bit to awkwrad to control properly). Or you might improvise something with a small floor jack...helps alot. Good luck. I just reinsrtalled one Saturday. :)

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