baccaruda Posted August 31, 2003 Share Posted August 31, 2003 the engine i put in skeet's wagon is missing 3 exhaust studs. is there any reason i couldn't use bolts instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted August 31, 2003 Share Posted August 31, 2003 the only bad thing about that is you are more apt to pull the threads out of the head. i'de try and get some more studs. but then again i have about 4 bolts and 4 studs between my two subarus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canajun2eh Posted August 31, 2003 Share Posted August 31, 2003 Don't use bolts. You can't tighten them properly without stripping the threads in the head. (I speak from experience.) Studs and new stainless steel nuts aren't all that expensive, and are readily available from your dealer. It's false economy to use anything else. Be sure to apply anti-seize compound to the studs before installing the nuts. Apply more to cover the nuts after installation and tightening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 31, 2003 Author Share Posted August 31, 2003 so much for laziness. thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted August 31, 2003 Share Posted August 31, 2003 When I tore down my engine in the '82 for a reseal, I found the exhaust mounting threads in the heads were striped out, 3 of them anyways. Posted question on here about repair of these. Got answers of using Heli-coils, re-dil and tap to larger size, and one of using a 7/16" bolt in place of the stock ones. I took the idea of the 7/16" bolt, and went a bit further. I used a starter tap first, then followed with a bottoming tap, for those few extra turns of thread. The tap size used is 7/16"-14, this is a coarse thread, which in my belief is better in aluminum than fine thread. I used a 1'' long bolt with lock washer to mount the exhaust pipe flange to the heads. The bolt is a SHCS, or in other words, you need an Allen wrench to turn it. The 7/16" tap will screw right into the holes in the head with no need to pre-drill. I may at a later time use studs in place of the bolts, but either will work. And actually, both a stud or a bolt will break of if they sieze in the hole. Use of Anti-sieze is highly recommended on all bolts/studs on these, or any vehicle. Just my .02..................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted August 31, 2003 Share Posted August 31, 2003 Ive ran bolts for quite some time. They are a good temporary solution. Latly I've been needing to remove/install the headers so much that they never get too loose. Studs is the proper solution but bolts will get you by. It was a little embarasing on base a year ago when two of the bolts DID come off a header... WOW did it get LOUD and the sparks from my exhuast draging for a few yards was a siight I'm sure Maybe some lock washers would hold them in but then you run into the problem archemitis points out... cant torque them down tight enugh in those aluminum heads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Partsman Posted January 28, 2004 Share Posted January 28, 2004 Man, I just wanted to give credit for a great and easy fix! I used 7/16-14 plug tap, then bottoming tap; put in 7/16x1 1/2" studs and a new gasket, put on a washer to take up a little extra space where the stud thread didn't go to the end, and used brass manifold nuts and Loctite. Didn't even have to drop the Y-pipe - I used the holes in the pipe to align the taps! EXCELLENT! :headbang: ! but now I have to carry one american size tool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 use double nuts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 I've had to deal with a bunch of these recently while working on other peoples' soobs, and since it takes upwards of a week to get the proper studs where I live, I've come up with my own solution: Make your own studs! Just get a bolt that's the same diameter and thread pitch, and at least as long as the stock stud. Cut the head off of the bolt, round that end off a tad with a file, and run a die (if you've got one) up and down the bolt a couple of times to clean it up. Presto! new exhaust stud! If the hole is stripped, I've had great luck with running a tap in and out once or twice, then using a thread renewal product made by Loctite that I can't remember the name of. It's a two-part metal epoxy a lot like JB Weld, with a third part that you coat the threads with. They claim it makes holes good as new for use with up to grade 5 US bolts, which is plenty for use in exhaust stud holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harpua Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 SUCCESS!!! This has been the best peice of message board knowledge that i have come accross to date. I went and picked up the 7/16-14 tap, new studs and nuts...lock washers, and locktite, installed it all, and now my turbo works again. I noticed that i was able to torque everything down much tighter, so hopefully it will hold this time. I was starting to get frustrated after the 5th time in 4 months having to put in new gaskets.... run studs not bolts....simple as that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonVee Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 Just wanted to say thanks for the Great Exhaust Stud Fix! Tryed all the other stuff...problem always came back. Did the 7/16"-14 tap with new 7/16" studs. Works great. They are in there now for sure! Big Thanks to TomRhere!!! This fix is fantastic! Peace.....Ron PS: I did a search before I posted this and alot of threads had Tom's name as the source of the fix so I hope I am correct. Real Big Thanks goes to this forum and it's members for helping me through the years keep my Subies goin!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exister99 Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 There seems to be some difference of opinion on this board regarding what exactly to apply to the threads of the exhaust studs prior to installation. One poster said anti-seize and another locktite. After a recent offroading trip my exhaust got a lot louder. Upon inspection I discovered that I had lost one of the studs entirely and the other 3 were loose. This would lead me to believe it would be best to apply locktite to these high vibration fasteners to keep from losing my Y-pipe entirely. Any thoughts? Also, I plan on ordering a new stud from McMaster.com. Does anyone know of another source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasWaff Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Just wanted to say thanks for the Great Exhaust Stud Fix! Tryed all the other stuff...problem always came back. Did the 7/16"-14 tap with new 7/16" studs. Works great. They are in there now for sure! Agreed, this was the only fix that worked on my old GL, and it worked well. My only addition would be take your time when you retap. DW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockva Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I've had to deal with a bunch of these recently while working on other peoples' soobs, and since it takes upwards of a week to get the proper studs where I live, I've come up with my own solution: Make your own studs! Just get a bolt that's the same diameter and thread pitch, and at least as long as the stock stud. Cut the head off of the bolt, round that end off a tad with a file, and run a die (if you've got one) up and down the bolt a couple of times to clean it up. Presto! new exhaust stud! If the hole is stripped, I've had great luck with running a tap in and out once or twice, then using a thread renewal product made by Loctite that I can't remember the name of. It's a two-part metal epoxy a lot like JB Weld, with a third part that you coat the threads with. They claim it makes holes good as new for use with up to grade 5 US bolts, which is plenty for use in exhaust stud holes. I also used the thread renewal epoxy with great results. In the holes that were badly stripped, I found that the next larger metric bolt size was easy to enlarge to, and the studs also fit through the holes in the flanges. Very easy to do and kept it metric too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 anti-seize is for things that you wish to remove again sometime, threadlocker is for things that you want to stay there use threadlocker when installing the studs and use anti-seize, if you wish, on the nuts after the exhaust pipe is mounted. I don't know that it's really necessary if you take your car apart as often as most of us do... don't forget the lockwashers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Nev-R-Seez +++ its more important than loctite in my book. of course, my book wasn't written with an aluminum block... but i dont care. nevrseez is the bestest stuff to have in a shop, evAr!!!!! lugnuts, exhaust and intake bolts, suspension bolts, ANYTHING that EVER could possibly get wet or rusted or tightly bound needs to be brushed with nevrseez... torque and lockwashers can usually keep anything tight, and anything that REALLY needs positive locking gets a castle nut and a pin anyhow, right? okay, so loctite is important too.. but nevrseez is more overlooked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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