Timing belts and tuneup questions

[bizboy]

Hi All,

 

I was happy to find this Subaru Board, as I have some simple questions.

 

I just bought an DL 1989 4X Wagon with the SPFI on the 1.8 liter engine.

 

Since it has 72,000 miles on it, I thought I would tune it up and change the timing belts.

 

I spent the whole morning reading old posts but maybe someone could clarify some info about tuneups and changing the timing belts:

 

1. Do I have an EA82 engine and is it a non-interference engine, (Timing Belt can break without damaging the engine)?

 

2. There is no actual way to make sure the Idle Switch is ON, so you just assume it is ON, since you are doing the tuneup at idle?

 

3. You don’t really need a belt tensioner (special tool)? I saw in a couple of posts where some had made them out of bolts and stuff. Does anyone have a picture of one?

 

4. The timing belt tension should be checked every 20,000 miles?

 

 

Thanks,

 

bizboy

[torxxx]

EA82s are non interference motors. I wouldnt even bother about checkin em at 20,000 miles, just keep your old ones in the back of the car as spares. If you buy new Subaru OEM t-belts from the dealer, they will last 60,000 miles.

 

The belt tensioners bolt to the block and are spring loaded. No special tool needed.

[Syonyk]

I wrote up some other things to check http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32721

 

And many people leave the timing belt covers off - makes inspecting the belts easy, replacing them easy, and doesn't keep them running through any oil that has leaked - they fling any crap off.

 

-=Russ=-

[bizboy]

Thanks, Torxxx and Syonyk,

 

Good info and thanks for the link to the info, it was very helpful.

 

 

 

I found in the online manual,

 

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

 

that it’s easy to check if the idle switch is on. A bit confusing since it seems to go by many different names: Idle air control, (IAC); Idle switch signal, throttle sensor system.

 

If anyone else is interested, it’s on page 14 in section 2-7 (Fuel Injection System), or page 24 of the pdf file.

 

• Warm up the engine.
  
• Turn the ignition switch OFF
  
• Disconnect the connector of the throttle sensor.
  
• Ensure that the resistance between the throttle sensor terminals A and B is 0 ohms when the accelerator pedal is released.
  

 

My notes: Terminals A and B are the top two in the connector, and it’s the connector on the throttle chamber that you are testing.

Zard

[MilesFox]

you'll find the timing belt procedure here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24

 

if you have the motor on out of the car, or if you decide to run open belts(no covers) you can use your bare hands to take the slack out of the belts instead of a spanner

 

make sure you follow the crank rotation schedule in the procedure, it is not necessary to remove the disty, even if you have the cam tower off for a re-seal

 

its wise to adjust the tension after a few 1000 miles as the belts will break in and stretch a little

 

oem belts woud be the best, i have seen other maftermarket belts that looked to be decent in quality as well. its recommended that the belts should be changed every 60,000 miles, but the belts *can* last over 100,000 miles if they arent oily from leaky seals and the car is driven regularly. i have seen a 130,000 mile motor with its original factory belts

 

as always, if you have the motor apart enough to do the timing belts you may as well do the engine seals like the crqnk, cams, and oil pump, and water pump.

 

suppose these seals are good and dont need fixed now, if you opt to go with open belts, you could fix htem later without having to remove near as much stuff, that is crank pulley and dipstick if you were to do the water pump and oil pump later

 

any time i post about timing belts i always suggest running open belts. i myself and others have this setup and have had no problems over many 1000's of miles. some will say it saves you time if you break a belt to fix it(20 min rather than 2hours) and some will argue that it poses a risk for belt failure from debris. its a matter of opinion i guess. the only reported failure was from a loose rag under the hood getting caught around the crank pulley, and yet on my car i lost my oil cap just to find it riding on the belt near the water pump 1000 miles later, showing the belts are not too sensitive to debris. so these scenarios reflect both extremes of opinions

 

anyway good luck and enjoy

[[ i ]nsane]

Neglecting them can leave you stranded