SPFI problems

[singletrack]

OK, maybe you saw the other thread, but I just swapped in a reman'd long block on my 88 SPFI wagon and I'm having some issues.

 

The car will idle, doesn't seem to be missing. Has no power right off idle. Major hesitation. Timing is good as far as I can tell. The car is driveable in a lousy way, and will do highway speed.

 

First, a few months ago I was screwing around and moved the throttle stop set screw. I didn't like what it did so I moved it back and had no problems at the time. I'm thinking now it's biting me in the azs. How do I get it back to spec? Just look in the TB to see if the plate is closed?

 

Second, to make it idle at 700, I gotta disconnect the air control valve. I've pulled it and cleaned, it seems to be moving freely but it won't cooperate. Idles at 1200 with the acv connected. If connecting it changes the engine speed, that means the soleniod is working right? And some other part of the car is making it run fast?

 

Third, I just did a bunch of checks on the TPS, and everything seems in order, resistance and voltage changes are as expected.... everything seems OK except I don't know if that throttle stop is set right.:-\ Anyway the idle switch is on when it's supposed to be.

 

Fourth, just to verify my timing, it's 20b at 700, whether the green connector is plugged in or not. It's the same at 1200 (ie when the air valve is hooked up). The green connector shuts off the electronic advance right? Well, if it's not (apparently) doing anything, is that bad? Is it possible for the disty to be off a tooth and still show correct timing with the light?

 

Im not getting any unexpected codes from the computer...Just a 24 when I pull the acv plug.

 

Plugs, wires are definetly correct, all filters and other disposables are new, and it has at least $2.50 worth of gas in it. Fuel pump was fine last week, I can hear it running now.

[singletrack]

FWIW, I searched for every relevant thread and read them all. Read all the Haynes and FSM stuff too. <-Although it's easy to miss stuff in the .PDF version.

[MorganM]

What cought my attention is the timing is the same at 700 rpm, 1200 rpm, green connectors plugged in or not. Should be advancing with the green plugs undone. With the green connectors unplugged, put the timing light on, and rev the engine there at the TB. You should see the timing advance there at the flywheel under the light. If it just stays at 20 you might be onto something!

 

Got a dizzy to swap in and see if that's the problem? Oh also check the wiring there from the dizzy upto the harness. Make sure it didnt get kinked real bad or severd somewhere.

[Wasteland]

Is the dizzy buried to the advance or retard side to get the timing right? could you be a tooth off on the belts? If the dizzy is buried pull it and put it one tooth forward and retard the timing or one tooth back and advance the timing and see what happens. Also do you have the coil wires on the right posts? Black to pos, yellow to neg (are they even those colors?). Are you still getting both rough idle and TOD? or is it just one or the other?

[singletrack]

Woohoo! Nevermind all that. I'm not sure what I did excatly, but I checked the timing for 100th time and for whatever reason it was way off from where it's been consistenly up till now:confused:. Fixed that, and it's all good.

 

I'd say it's running pretty well now. It's still ticking though.

 

I still need to do something with the air valve, buts that's been messed up since I got the car.

[Wasteland]

NICE!!!!!