pyromanic Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Hey guys, I don't know how my 85 gl wagon steered before I did the 5sp swap, cause I had to cripple it home with a bad auto tranny on dirt roads. Of course when I did the tranny swap, I had to tear enough of the steering down to pull the axels back. I didn't take anything apart I didn't have too, just enough. I just found out that I wasn't supposed to tighten anything untill I had it on the ground. Could that be why it doesn't track so good and pulls just a little to the left? No wierd noises, just trys to drift a little and doesn't seem to track like it shood. Brake disks run cool. What should I do? Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted March 23, 2005 Author Share Posted March 23, 2005 That wasn't specific enough I know. Try this. When I did all the above, I had yet to learn the correct and simpler wayt o get the axles away from the tranny to do the tranny swap. So instead of backing off the top strutt bolts to get slack I needed, I erroneosly dissconected the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm. It worked of course, just harder that it needed to be. And when I put it all back together, I tightened those connections while up on jacks. Another mistake, now I know. Thing is, I can see that the plates are bent some on the passenger side. Bushing lookes pretty nasty too. Question: Could this be causing the car to pull to the left? I'm tearing into it tommorrow. Thanks Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weekendwarrior3169 Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 It is recomended that anytime you take anything apart on the front or rear supension, you should have the wheels re-aligned at a shop. If you have a straight axle car, all you will need is a front end alignment. If you have a front wheel drive car, you will need a 4 wheel alignment. This should give you proper tire wear and make the car drive like a new one again. Also if you have any worn parts or anything that has slack, you will need to replace them before the alignment. You can't align slack. I know that from experience. I used to do alignments in one of my previous careers. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 I disagree with the post above me. I've worked on many subarus and have done a lot of front and rear end suspension work. The older subarus dont really need to be aligned if you are using stock stuff. I've changed out 2 sets of front struts and 3 sets of rear struts without anything getting worse. If anything, the tires seemed to wear better and lasted longer. I'll let you in on a lil secret for doing tranny swaps and pulling the axles. DONT DISCONNECT ANYTHING. all you do is punch out the spring pins on axles, then turn the car hard over one way, pop off the axle. turn hard over the other way, and you'll be able to pop the axle off the other side. You may have to use a pry bar to get the axles all the way off, but it will work. I've done that on EA81 and EA82 cars. Saved me a LOT of time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 where did you place your jacks when you had it apart? subarus have a fixed alignment you didnt undo the tie rods did you? anyway a radius rod that is bent or is loose will allow the wheel to pull on that side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weekendwarrior3169 Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 I disagree with the post above me. I've worked on many subarus and have done a lot of front and rear end suspension work. The older subarus dont really need to be aligned if you are using stock stuff. I've changed out 2 sets of front struts and 3 sets of rear struts without anything getting worse. If anything, the tires seemed to wear better and lasted longer. I'll let you in on a lil secret for doing tranny swaps and pulling the axles. DONT DISCONNECT ANYTHING. all you do is punch out the spring pins on axles, then turn the car hard over one way, pop off the axle. turn hard over the other way, and you'll be able to pop the axle off the other side. You may have to use a pry bar to get the axles all the way off, but it will work. I've done that on EA81 and EA82 cars. Saved me a LOT of time Well you are right. You don't have to get a alignment everytime you change a part. I put wheel bearings in my DL and didn't get a alignment. Still drives the same as it did but a lot quieter now. Still it is "recomended" that you have a alignment done. If you use aftermarket part although they are supposed to be the same as the original there could still be some difference in size even though you can't see it. As far as a Subaru have a fixed alignment, that can't be right. When I was doing alignments, the newest Subaru you could buy was a 89. You may not be able to adjust the caster and camber but you can set the toe in. If you toe in is off that will cause one to pull one way or the other. Also it will cause tire wear. my last 2 cents Paul;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted March 23, 2005 Author Share Posted March 23, 2005 where did you place your jacks when you had it apart? subarus have a fixed alignment you didnt undo the tie rods did you? anyway a radius rod that is bent or is loose will allow the wheel to pull on that side Torxx, that is great to know!! Sure wish I had known that, or figured it out before I started. Thanks for ideas guys. Miles, jacks were behind front wheels, under body. No problems there. Yes, I did drop the tie rods, BUT the ends held their position. Nothing turned. Tie rod adjustment-length stayed same as before. One problem here is that I don't know how many problems there might have been before all this. Never drove it on blacktop untill after all this work. Again I ask: Could the bent sway bar bracket and crappy bushing there cause this? Tomarrow I intend to replace bushings, ball joints, inspect wheel bearings and such. This will be pretty much over my head, I have not done this kind of work before. Wish me luck. Any tips appreciated. Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Ths sway bar bracket & bushing wont make your car pull to the side (unless its holding your car on a big lean?). If anything, it will probably just make an annoying squeeking sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted March 23, 2005 Author Share Posted March 23, 2005 Ths sway bar bracket & bushing wont make your car pull to the side (unless its holding your car on a big lean?). If anything, it will probably just make an annoying squeeking sound. Ok, thanks for that Ross. I asked because thats the only obvious thing I see wrong. Didn't really seem like it could be causing the problem. I think it's probably a combination of things. Maily, neglect. I aim to remedy that. Got my work cut out for me. Snowing now too. Oh boy! Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 I'm guessing a wheel bearing. when bearings start to go out, they gather more resistance to it would act like the brake was dragging, which would make the car pull to the side with the bad bearing. Could be a bad balljoint too, but I think you would notice that a lil more. they seem to make the tire side to side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 this past weekend we replaced both ball joints, all wheel bearings, seals, both drive axles, the ball joints were bad, and also the inner boots of the drive axles were bad, and it stll pulls alitte to the right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted March 23, 2005 Author Share Posted March 23, 2005 86Subaru, I take it you found no visible "issues"? Yup, logic seems to dictate now it's time for allighnment. Torxx, your guess is duely noted. I am suspicious of that too. On one hand, I wonder why I don't hear anything, if it is a wheel bearing. Wouldn't I hear a growll or grumble if one was on it's way out? Did I mention that there is a bit of "pulsing" when braking"? My Hayes manual says this in troubleshooting: "Brake pedal pulsates during brake aplication: 1;Wheel bearings not adjusted properly or in need of replacement, ect, ect, rotors, drums, bent, blah blah blah so on and so forth. Adjustment? Thats something I don't get about Soob bearings. What adjustment? I'm used to to wheel bearings that take a specified preload, and a cotter pin throught the castleated nut. But with these, I'm told tighter is better, at least give them 140 lbs. So where is the preload? I just assumed that the preload was built in to the tolerances in the knuckle. Have I got this wrong? Look, this car is my keeper. I am about to lift it, and have tons of bling work already completed on interior and engine. So I'm thinking this morning I should run to the parts house and buy what. Two sets of wheel bearings, two axles, (boot on one is starting to rip) two ball joints, stabalizer bar bushings. I see a torn grease boot on one tie rod end. Should I replace both ends? Lots of questions, sorry. Dam snow. Crap. Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyromanic Posted March 23, 2005 Author Share Posted March 23, 2005 Sat down with coffee for 20 minutes thinking about all this. My donor car steered and drove great. How much easier and cheaper would it be to just grab the knuckles and axels from both sides and swap them out? Rebuild the others as time and money allows? I know I know, not the peace of mind of new componets, but at least it would put me on the road faster and cheaper, yes? Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 That is exactly what I'd do pyro. Then you can eventually get new bearings in the front spindles and reinstall them. I always run with used parts before new ones.. Its cheaper that way, ya know? Or yes, I'd rebuild the front end. its actually not to spendy. 25 bucks a balljoint for the napa performance ones. tierod end 40 bucks a pop. new bearings are 65 a side. 30 for brake pads and 30 for new rotors. keep the reciepts from the axles, they will be lifetime warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 seeing them alaska prices may be a bit more than the lower 48. i have seen ball joints fgor 17 at napa, pads should be about 15 for a set, bearings around 20 a piece, the seals maybe 6-8 bucks apiece anyway the "adjustment for the bearing" the bearings are pressed in, and a re a ball type bearing, so there is no side load say like that of a roller bearing like on a rwd front spindle the tighter you make the axle nut the more it seate thebearing races, the internal parts of the bearings still spin freeley, and the axle is pressed thru the inner race. a loose axle nut can cauus the rotor to rub on the caliper bracket. a pulsating pedal will designate a warped rotor or the same as a loose axle nut inspect the brake pads and look for uneven wear, and tighten the axle nut if she's loose there are 2 washers on the axle nut, one is cone shaped and futs into the hub, the other one is flat but has a curve, install it so the curve side faces the axle, so that it squeezes down on the outer edge of the cone washer. sometimes these washers are on backward and the nut doesnt hold torque Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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