Clutch Change for noob

[BobBrumby]

I have never done a clutch in my life so this will be the first. I have read a few posts and the stuff in the usrm just a couple of questions:

 

1. How rusty can a flywheel be before it need a resurfaced and does the clutch life suffer if the flywheel aint done?

 

2. I think I am going to pull the engine and was wondering if the stock jack is upto raising the g. box/engine assy. up engough the clear the engine mount studs from the engine x-member, ofcourse with a block of wood to protect the g. box sump?

 

3. I have about 168k miles clocked up and need to know if the engine mounts should be replaced?

 

4. I have read in numerous posts that while the block is out it easy to replace the water and oil pumps, with this many miles would either of these require attention? Note the temp. guage reads always a bit below halfway unless stitting at a set of lights for a prolonged period, then it raises to halfway.

 

5. I am going to do the valve cover and oil pan gaskets while i am it, do these reuire any sort of sealent or do you just bolt then down firm?

[baccaruda]

I've done a few and have found the resources on this board to be very helpful. here's my $0.02

 

1. How rusty can a flywheel be before it need a resurfaced and does the clutch life suffer if the flywheel aint done?

--Rust isn't usually why a flywheel is machined; warpage from friction/heat is why. The clutch may chatter and grab unevenly and wear out sooner if the flywheel is not machined. I would machine a flywheel anytime the clutch is being changed due to its service life ending.

 

2. I think I am going to pull the engine and was wondering if the stock jack is upto raising the g. box/engine assy. up engough the clear the engine mount studs from the engine x-member, ofcourse with a block of wood to protect the g. box sump?

--You would probably be better off getting ahold of a larger hydraulic jack. The spare tire jack might work, but a hydraulic jack is better (and probably safer as it'll be easier to reach), and you might want the spare jack to lift the trans a little as it aids in reuniting the engine and transmission.

 

3. I have about 168k miles clocked up and need to know if the engine mounts should be replaced?

--I would. I'd also change the transmission mounts too. worn mounts allow inner axle boots to fail sooner due to the extra stress on the axles.

 

4. I have read in numerous posts that while the block is out it easy to replace the water and oil pumps, with this many miles would either of these require attention? Note the temp. guage reads always a bit below halfway unless stitting at a set of lights for a prolonged period, then it raises to halfway.

--This would be a great time to replace the water pump and at least reseal, if not replace, the oil pump. If you go to that much work you should also consider changing the timing belt (OEM only!) as well as the front main seal and the camshaft seals. You might also replace the rear main seal since you'll have access to it. I like to do that as well.

 

5. I am going to do the valve cover and oil pan gaskets while i am it, do these reuire any sort of sealent or do you just bolt then down firm?

--the oil pan gasket benefits from some gasket sealant (don't use silicone as it is oil soluble) and very light torque. the bolts will accept a phillips screwdriver and i would use one instead of a ratchet as you'll have more control over it. The valve covers take a little more. I've used a trick i've heard of here for the valve cover gaskets.. use gasket sealant to secure the gaskets to the covers themselves, and use white lithium grease on the engine side of the valve covers. this will allow for easy removal of the valve covers if needed, without damaging the gaskets, so you can reuse them.

 

--I'd also add that you should get two new throwout bearing clips from the dealer. they're cheap and they often break as they age. if they break they can allow the throwout bearing to spin on the pressure plate and wear out prematurely, and if they aren't broken now they might soon, and it would be a shame to have to tear back into the clutch to replace a $3 clip.

 

good luck!

[BobBrumby]

and you might want the spare jack to lift the trans a little as it aids in reuniting the engine and transmission...!

So when removing the enginge you put the jack under the engine?

 

I would. I'd also change the transmission mounts too. worn mounts allow inner axle boots to fail sooner due to the extra stress on the axles.

If i take out the tranny mounts one at a time and then install the new one should this stop any missalinment issues?

 

Its an ea81 but i supose its all pretty much the same

[baccaruda]

you have one jack under the engine so its mounts can clear the slots, and another under the trans to ease the disengagent and reengagement of the trans input shaft. the trans needs to match the angle you put the engine at when you raise the engine for the mounts to clear the crossmember.

 

the easy way to change the trans mounts would be to unbolt the trans crossmember with the back of the trans supported by a jack (the front will be supported by the engine or if the engine's out, by the crossmember). then with the crossmember out, you can change both mounts right on the trans.

[Bro]

just to add what I did, I only used one stock jack on a concrete block (for height) under the tranny and the engine was supported by the engine hoist. Lift both until the engine clears the mounts, undo the 4 bolts etc that joints it to the tranny, slide forward (raditaor removed) lift it out. (disconect everything to the engine beforehand of course:))

[BobBrumby]

A couple of questions: Are the studs that come out of the bottom of the engine bellhousing the same length as the input shaft for the tranny? e.g. once the studs are clear of the their holes in the trannny will the input shaft be out of the clutch assy.

 

And do you recon a bit of timber with two ropes slung arround each head and a guy on each end with another guy manuvering would be enough to get it out of the engine bay?

[torxxx]

you dont even have to go that far. Heres what I would do. Jack up the tranny/engine via bottom of tranny. leave your skid plate on. Pull the Raid and unhook fuel lines etc. with the raid out, you can slide the engine forward (once the engine mount studs are cleared) the engine will rest against the core support. This will give you about a foot of room to get down and change you clutch.

 

Do it this way, and it saves everyones backs. Then when you are done, two people can lift the engine up and slide it back to the tranny.

[MilesFox]

if you and a buddy pull the motor by hand, its easier to take off theintake and ac/alt, makes the motor half as light. a long block alone you could just about chuck across the room. a short block byitself one person could hurl it like a medicine ball!

 

there is a tab on the casting near the drain plug on the tranny, you can jack it up there, the oem jack will work but you will have more control with a hydraulic

 

putting the motor back in the input shaft sometimes will hang on the pilot bearing, and you may have to wiggle the motor on. if you can get the bottom studs to poke thru and start a nut, and use the longer starter bolt on the passenger side to draw the bellhounsing together, coner at a time so its even

[dragonwingsubaru]

definatly go ahead and replace your rear main while your doing the clutch since its only like 6 more bolts from where you are gonna be at for the clutch. i had to change my flywheel and clutch stuff to the motor i had dropped in a month ago, and after a little submerging in a mudd puddle my rear seal is now pissing out oil. even if it looks good do it anyways. i thought mine looked real good and found out i was wrong. i would say to prob get the front tranny seal while you are at it. i know thats what im gonna be doing since ill have my motor out

[BobBrumby]

should i locktite all the clutch to flywheel, flywheel to engine and crank pulley bolts? Like the strongest locktite there?

[pyromanic]

should i locktite all the clutch to flywheel, flywheel to engine and crank pulley bolts? Like the strongest locktite there?

 

I personally do NOT recomend the "strongest" locktite. I think that would be a mistake. If any loctite use the one that says "disassemble with hand tools".

 

The strongest locktite will require the use of heat.

 

I could be wrong.

 

Actualy, probably just torque to spec is good enough.

 

Before you decide, see what these other fellers say. Lots of 'em know way more than me.

 

But some of them locktite products are darn near permanent.

 

 

Pyro

[BobBrumby]

bump

use locktite or not, i need to know soon?

[dragonwingsubaru]

i didnt use any locktight at all and havent had any problems for the last 2k miles i have put on it, and i give it hell offroading so i think your safe without it but if you really wanna use it i would go with the lower locking stuff

[BobBrumby]

ooo eee the engine is out and sitting a couple of metres infront of the engine bay. i would suggest that you do hire/buy a lift as lifting it manually is a bit touch and go . But yeh it seemed to go pretty easily. Found out the top nut on my engine mounts where loose as a goose, this normal? PS thanks for all your help all going well ill have the car back on the road tomorow. Btw; all the gaskets and clutch kit cams out to about $500. Might leave a few items off the list when i get there.

[BobBrumby]

My first clutch change went pretty much without hassle. I got in and did all the seals but no pumps, maybe another weekend.

 

Found the centre head nut on driverside to be finger tight:slobber: and tighened it down.

 

I think my cable is a bit stretched as with my new clutch there is jack all adjustment and the old plate still had a little bit to it. Boy did that give me a scare when i had no feel at the pedal, thought I put the plate in the wrong way round, but tighened down the cable and got some clutch. The only problem with knowing now how to do a clutch is our old suzuki sieera needs a clutch badly and mum recons I should give it a go:rolleyes:.

 

One last thing, We put wood peices across the engine x-member and lower radiator support bar to rest the engine on when we were putting it back. We then slid the jack under jacked it up and took out the bits of wood. Less change for damage to engine and easier for us. Just thought i would add.

 

OH yeh and thanks for all the sugestions.